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I installed a dual friction in my '71 this weekend and have a problem. No adjustment. Installed recommended df148552 11' kit with 1716 throwout bearing and I have no adjustment left. Called them today and the beligerent tech person said I made a mistake installing it. I have a 1/2 inch height difference between the stock pressure plate and the dual friction. (stock is 1/2 inch taller.) Throw out bearings are the same height. Stock bell housing. Any one else have a similar problem with centerforce install? Can I use an adjustable pivot ball with the stock bell housing? Any help appreciated since centerforce couldn't. Thanks, Carl.
I think you are on the right track. The clutch fork pivot ball that screws into the back of the bellhousing has a lot to do with how much adjustment you have on your clutch. THe longer the ball the more adjustment (to a limit since too long of a ball stud won't allow the bellhousing and engine to mate). How is the rest of the linkage? Could the clutch fork be bent? There may be other linkage issues taking away your adjustment room.
I installed a dual friction into my 71 muncie M1. I used all stock parts except for the Centerforce pressure plate and clutch disk. Everything worked great. I think the problem is that the muncies are a bit different and requires the stock corvette throwout bearing...I also replaced my clutch fork, though that too is stock. Oh, I must add that my vette was originally automatic and was switched over. Maybe your adjustment is due to the linkage? Just a thought.
If I remember correctly, the instructions say 4.75" from the block mounting surface to the tip of the ball stud using a stock thickness flywheel. My original stud measured in at about 4.875" but I had a replacement from ZIP that seems to work fine.
I got the new ball stud before I measured it all out so I got lucky. Interestingly, the Haynes pubs list different studs for L-48 or L-82 applications but ZIP only has one size replacement.
Unfortunately, to replace the sud, the transmission has to be pulled. :eek:
You will more than likely need an adjustable pivot ball to get it right. You want to get the pivot ball long enough so that as the throwout bearing is just touching the pressure plate fingers, the throwout arm is pointing straight out at a 90* angle or slightly forward. This is necessary or you will never get it to work right.
There are two GM *****, one long and one short. In my case with a scattershield, the one I needed was between the two. I used the adj. type and got it set where I wanted it and then removed it and tackwelded the locknut. (I had it back off once!)
And the others are right also. Really look at your linkage for any slop. A little wear in the pivot holes really cuts down arm movement.
I actually drilled a hole to change geometry. On my crosshaft slightly lower on the pivot hole from the pedal to speed up the movement and ensure more travel. Probably not needed for you but I sure love the way it works now. Very clean.
Thanks for the replies. Ordered an adjustable pivot ball. Should cure the problem. Just aggravated that this was supposed to be a stock replacement and centerforce had no answers for the stacked height difference. Thanks, Carl.
I had a mechanic install a centerforce clutch for me and I ended up with the same problem, ie I have to push the clutch pedal all the way to the floor when I shift gears (frequently hitting the bright lights switch!) . When I asked about this on the forum, it became apparent that it was a very common problem with centerforce clutches, as you can see from the replies above. Steve Straus posted pics of the 2 different size GM pivot ball studs. Adjustable is probably the way to go, because what if the tall one is too tall? :) I will get around to changing mine eventually.