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i got an air hammer tonight, ill give it a shot tommorow. problem is i beat the end of the shock mount with a hammer earlier and theres no way im putting that nut back on there now. sooooo what can i use to keep the air hammer from bouncing around? socket?
try putting a C clamp on the ears of the bearing housing before you start beating on the shock mount, it keeps the force from the hammer from bending the ears and dissapating the force. I had to do this to get mine out,,, it works great with a BIG hammer
Support the arms on the bearing housing with a C-clamp. Bending or breaking the housing is not really tough and gets expensive. I got the ones out of the 69 out by turning the nut backwards, clamping the ears together as tight as I could, backing up the clamp with a big sledge hammer and using an 8lb hammer to beat it with. Loads of penetrating oil. Mine were mostly just stuck- I took the T/A bolts out with a long drift and a 2lb hammer. Nothing so far has been rusted in.
well i tried the angle grinder, i dont like those dam things, the blades shred to pieces and loves to kick back. But i did get it to move a little, still no luck. Im sure i can get it to go just gotta cut more. Any other suggestions at this point? Ill buy whteer tool i need at this point.
i cut the strut off near the shock mount. Used a grinding wheel to cut through the strut to the rubber in 2 places 180 degrees apart, then it comes apart like a clam shell. Used a knife to cut the rubber away. The inner sleeve that rusts itself into a perfect weld to the mount has a seam. Use the grinding wheel to grind through the sleeve 180 out again, then use a chisel to pry off the sleeve. If you are careful you can preserve the mount. It'll take a few hours.
Let this be a lesson. Use plenty of antiseeze when reinstalling this.
Well i cant buy one of those! LOL Any other ideas? Roto-zip? The grinder just tears up blades and kicks back something aweful.
Grinding wheel or cutting wheel? Use a grinding wheel. You got to go slow.
Use thick leather gloves and good safety goggles. When those cutting wheels come apart they are like bullets.
This is one of the most flustrating things you can do on this car. If you can get through this you can do any of it. Take your time. Take lots of breaks so you don't lose your cool.
If you were closer i'd run over and help you.
Last edited by turtlevette; Mar 6, 2010 at 07:27 PM.
Your a little ride away, might be worth it to buy your gas and pay/feed ya! LOL I bought a roto zip im gonna try that too. i have one side of the mount cut if i can just cut the other side it should drop out then i can tap the front out. Wouldn't mind your help with some other stuff in the future if your willing. I wanna get this stuff done asap so i can get driving it.
Don't give up yet! It's been mentioned before but HEAT is the answer.
I used a C-clamp, shock mount removal tool, pb blaster and a propane torch.
Don't heat the bearing support ends and hit it with a sledge right away before it cools.
It WILL come out!
Well i just went out to the garage with that roto zip and did some more cutting , i got one out! I think the trick is to not think your going to cut it completely out because thats tough to do with a 3 in cutting wheel but rather cut into the sleeve in several places to loosen it and get the pb blaster in there. i know better now for the other side. Not even going to touch that hammer until i have some cuts into it and pb blaster down into the sleeve. Next one should be a piece of cake at this point. Anyone need to borrow my new tools now?? LOL I bought everything!
Ok i got the passenger side out in around 20-30 mins. Heres the trick. At least it worked for me. Before you even hammer it at all, heat out the old rubber with the torch. Then cut a slot right in the middle of the strut rod (assuming your replacing them) maybe cut a few more slots as well. This exposes the sleeve which is frozen and cutting into the sleeve helps get the pb blaster in there. Once i had it sprayed up , i turned the castle nut around left it half on, put the air hammer on it and that thing came right out. WOW that was easy.
what if you already beat the **** out of the bolt WITHOUT the castle nut on? i did this and now the end of the bolt crushed so i can't the nut on anymore...
am i screwed?
what if you already beat the **** out of the bolt WITHOUT the castle nut on? i did this and now the end of the bolt crushed so i can't the nut on anymore...
am i screwed?
First of all you get the (not so) coveted "I'm a Big Tool" award for beating on an unprotected threaded object.
Next you just cut it out and buy a new shock mount.
I got that award first!! I did the same thing once you jar it loose just cut the end of the shock mount off (the section thats mushroomed) and use a drift (punch) to push it through the rest of the way.