Timing gear/harmonic balancer length
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster SC
Timing gear/harmonic balancer length
Hey everyone. Replaced the stock timing set with a Cloyes Premium True Billet roller set #9-3600TX9 which fits under the stock timing cover. Put the harmonic damper back on and noticed it sitting pretty far out from the cover. Checked pully alignment with the power steering pump and it's way out, 1/4" maybe. I assumed (yeah, I know the saying) it had to do with the thicker crank sproket gear but was hoping, knowing the alternative, that the damper wasn't pressed onto the crank all the way, just maybe hitting the sproket woodruf key and stopping. Pulled the cover, re-installed the damper and it's all the way against the crank sproket. Anyone else run into this? Don't want to space all my pullys and parts to make up the difference. Can only think to check the difference between the OEM sproket gear thickness and the Cloyes gear and shave that amount off the back of the damper hub shaft. Oh yeah, 76 L-48. Thanks for your ideas.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 2,740
Likes: 3
From: Aurora Ontario
I did mine about 6 months ago. You need to rent the tool that push's the balancer back on. Don't hammer it and don't use the big bolt thats normally on it to pull it in. You will snap the bolt in the crank.
Its a bit nerve racking even with the tool. What you need to do is take the balancer off again.Take a measurement using the wear marks on the crank shaft. Lube up the shaft a bit. Put the balancer back on and start cranking the nut on the tool. Its going to take a while. You will find once its almost all the way in the whole crank will start turning. You will have to hold the pully with one hand as you tighten. Or rig something up like wedging a large screw driver in on of the holes on the pulley so when you tighten it with the tool the screwdriver hits the cross fame. Be patient. it will evenutally seat.
Jim
Its a bit nerve racking even with the tool. What you need to do is take the balancer off again.Take a measurement using the wear marks on the crank shaft. Lube up the shaft a bit. Put the balancer back on and start cranking the nut on the tool. Its going to take a while. You will find once its almost all the way in the whole crank will start turning. You will have to hold the pully with one hand as you tighten. Or rig something up like wedging a large screw driver in on of the holes on the pulley so when you tighten it with the tool the screwdriver hits the cross fame. Be patient. it will evenutally seat.
Jim
Hey everyone. Replaced the stock timing set with a Cloyes Premium True Billet roller set #9-3600TX9 which fits under the stock timing cover. Put the harmonic damper back on and noticed it sitting pretty far out from the cover. Checked pully alignment with the power steering pump and it's way out, 1/4" maybe. I assumed (yeah, I know the saying) it had to do with the thicker crank sproket gear but was hoping, knowing the alternative, that the damper wasn't pressed onto the crank all the way, just maybe hitting the sproket woodruf key and stopping. Pulled the cover, re-installed the damper and it's all the way against the crank sproket. Anyone else run into this? Don't want to space all my pullys and parts to make up the difference. Can only think to check the difference between the OEM sproket gear thickness and the Cloyes gear and shave that amount off the back of the damper hub shaft. Oh yeah, 76 L-48. Thanks for your ideas.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster SC
Thanks guys. Called Cloyes tech line, left a message and am waiting for a call back. The balancer is definately on all the way (and I did use the install tool), flush up against the new crank timing gear sproket. Problem is the new double roller sproket is thicker than the original single chain sproket. That's what's keeping the balancer/damper from going onto the crank snout deep enough for its proper placement and it's definately the correct balancer, measured the hub length and it's the same as the old one.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Lancaster SC
Seek and ye shall find... that I screwed up on this myself. Pulled the new crank sproket and compared it with the original. Same thickness so I re-installed the old one to see how far it from the front of the crank snout it was when installed and realized that the large socket I was using to press on the gear was bottoming out on the front of the crank before the gear was fully pressed on. What do they say about the right tool for the right job. Kind'a feelin' like a "tool" right now after seeing what I did. Again, thanks everyone for the input... boy do I appreciate this forum and all its members.
Last edited by 76GlassY; Feb 24, 2010 at 05:44 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,412
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
The least expensive remover tools will cause you to prevent the crank from turning. I think the least expensive tools cost about $30 US (S&K). If you can easily jamb the crank from turning, you can save some money for sure. The Summit tool has a Torrington bearing which greatly reduces the torque required to remove/replace the balancer.
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