Power Brake Booster and MC
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Leominster MA
Power Brake Booster and MC
Ok i've read through alot of the threads on changing the PB and MC and As difficult as it seems im going to try it. I will have the top dash off anyway (got a new one) so will that make it easier?
ALSO- Advanced auto parts has the $114 combo unit. I know people say buy a better one but money is money and if it will hold up to ten years then thats fine with me.
Anyone have luck with the Cardone one from Advanced?
ALSO- Advanced auto parts has the $114 combo unit. I know people say buy a better one but money is money and if it will hold up to ten years then thats fine with me.
Anyone have luck with the Cardone one from Advanced?
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Leominster MA
Probably not but it looks old and while i have the dash apart already I might as well.
So bad or not its getting done. Any other tips anyone can suggest to get it over with? That pin(clevis) seems to be the pain here. Any tricks?
Will it be easier with the top dash pad off?
So bad or not its getting done. Any other tips anyone can suggest to get it over with? That pin(clevis) seems to be the pain here. Any tricks?
Will it be easier with the top dash pad off?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
After reading all the post I was preparing for the worst as well. I took mine out last weekend and I guess that it is considerably easier with the dash out as mine was (both driver side and upper top) it took me all of twenty minutes to get the booster out .Replacing all the brake lines now that was a PITA especially the front to back.
Good luck
Scott
Good luck
Scott
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 3,334
Likes: 4
From: Midland TX
I'm not sure just taking the top dash pad off will make it "easy". You may have to pull the drivers dash pad back to gain access behind the speedo/tach.
I replaced my booster by accessing the nuts from underneath. You have to have skinny arms and small hands to reach up in there. The steering column is right in the way. It is difficult to get a wrench or socket in there. I think for the top bolts I had to use socket extensions and a wobbly joint.
The clevis was a piece of cake compared to accessing those top 2 nuts on the booster.
Good luck.
I replaced my booster by accessing the nuts from underneath. You have to have skinny arms and small hands to reach up in there. The steering column is right in the way. It is difficult to get a wrench or socket in there. I think for the top bolts I had to use socket extensions and a wobbly joint.
The clevis was a piece of cake compared to accessing those top 2 nuts on the booster.
Good luck.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,264
Likes: 3
From: Vero Beach FL
I use a 4 inch and an 8 or 10 inch extensions and a wobbly joint with a deep socket 9/16th in different combinations. I did not remove the seat just reached up under the dash from inside. As mentioned the driver side dash was out.
Best of luck
Best of luck
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Cardone stuff is great. I've used many parts by Cardone and never had a problem. I'm also about to put my Booster and MC back into my '74. I got mine from AutoZone for about the same price
.
.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
Check the prices at Advance Auto also if there is one in your area. They had the lowest price when I was shopping.
Regarding the tools needed for the job, 2 universals are needed, but wrap them with tape so that they don't flop around too much. You need flexibility but you don't want the socket pointing at the floor all the time.
Rick B.
Regarding the tools needed for the job, 2 universals are needed, but wrap them with tape so that they don't flop around too much. You need flexibility but you don't want the socket pointing at the floor all the time.
Rick B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 2,078
Likes: 283
From: Dyersburg TN
seat
I removed the seat for better access. I am 6' 250lbs, but I think it would help anyone get to the nuts. One of the studs had two nuts on it. The outer nut held a wire loom holder. Mine is a 81, dont know what other years might do this.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 40,420
Likes: 792
From: Redondo Beach, California
I took my vacuum booster out by using the extentions and a socket with a universal joint drive. The universal joint drive makes the socket annoyingly floppy and droopy. I viagraized it with with a wrap of masking tape to make it a little perky;i.e remain horizontal with the extention drive being approximately 45 degrees off vertical.
My top dash and the speedo/tach dash were removed. Removing the seat is a must IMO.
I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs. It was a very difficult removal for me. For one of the nuts on the top, I had my 5'4" skinny grandson remove it.
My top dash and the speedo/tach dash were removed. Removing the seat is a must IMO.
I'm 6'2" and 220 lbs. It was a very difficult removal for me. For one of the nuts on the top, I had my 5'4" skinny grandson remove it.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,224
Likes: 1
From: Clarksville Indiana
2 extensions, swivel and deep well socket... I use A-1 Cardone products in my shops every day for 20+ years... very seldom a problem
Last edited by 71coupe454; Feb 26, 2010 at 06:12 PM.
Banned Scam/Spammer
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 518
Likes: 0
From: Oldsmar FL
My '79 had the 2 nuts also. I was prying like mad to get the booster out but it wouldn't move. Did some more searching and found the second nut was behind the wiring loom.
