I spent all last night installing the remaining 4 pistons. Now all of the pistons are installed and torqued down to 67 ft lbs on the rod bolts. That was a time consuming job. Much of the time was spent making sure the rings were installed with the tops facing up and the ring gaps pointing in the correct directions. It was really a pretty messing job too, I came back down the house and I had oil all over my pants. I now have a complete rotating assembly!

I'm placing another order with Jeg's today. The order will include:

- Comp Cams 10* Hardened Valve Locks
- Comp Cams Magnum Pushrods
- Moroso Street/Strip Oil Pan (No Scraper or Windage Tray)
- Moroso Oil Pump Pickup
- Mr. Gasket Steel Shim Head Gaskets
- Comp Cams 1.72 Magnum Roller Tip Rocker Arms
- ARP Motor Mount Bolts
- ARP Frame Mount Bolts
- ARP Stainless Steel Valve Cover Bolts
- ARP Stainless Steel Intake Bolts
- ARP Oil Pan Stud Kit
- ARP Cam Bolts
- Milodon Diamond Stripper Windage Tray
- Moroso Lifter Valley Oil Shield
- Comp Polymer Black Valve Covers

:D

After this there is one order to go, and it's time to drop the beast in! My goal is to have the engine in the 'Vette by Easter time. I usually bring the 'Vette out of the garage around Easter every year so I don't want this year to be any different :). I'm feeling good!


[Modified by bence13_33, 11:41 AM 3/9/2002]

 

Getting closer! :yesnod:

 

Cool! Been there, wrenched that. I know how much fun you're having!

You probably meant to list both... Keep in mind the retainers need to match the locks. Perhaps the kit you're ordering comes as a set.

-Noel

 

It sounds darn exciting. I know I have been following your progress since day one and I know several others here have been doing the same. We will be very happy when we hear that it is up and running. It will make our Easter too :cheers:

 

You're almost there!

Good luck!

 

Bence,

Great news! Let's see some pictures!! Which oil pan (Jeg's part#) are you going with? I am also looking for a pan that will fit in my '74.

I will email you a couple shots of my new Demon 850 and Performer RPM intake later on today. I will get it "assembled" and take a few pics of it outside.

Which rocker arms are you going with? I have an order of Harland Sharp's Diamond Series roller rockers that are supposed to fit under a stock valve cover. Those Damn things set me back $364.00 with shipping!! As long as they fit under the stock covers, I will be happy.

What's next on your agenda?

Bob :cheers:

 

Sounds great The only thing you might want to hold off on is the pushrods. Wait until the heads are on and see if the stock length will do. If you are using stock heads you should be OK but it never hurts to make sure. It sounds as if you are taking your time with it so make sure the pushrods are correct.

 

Noel:
Yea, thanks for pointing that out. I had already purchased the Comp Cams 10* titanium retainers(I have them)....but had forgot to order the locks (DOH!) so I ordered them today. Once again thanks for pointing that out :cheers:.

Bob:
I ordered the Moroso Street/Strip Oil Pan 6qt + Filter (Jeg's #710-20401). I also ordered the Comp Cams Magnum Roller Tipped Rockers (1.72 Ratio). These Rocker Arms will fit under the valve covers that I ordered.

Next on the agenda is:

Order: Header Gaskets, Header Bolts, Pressure Plate Bolts, Fuel Pump Bolts, Throttle Linkage Plate, Holley Fuel Pump, Magnetic Oil Pan Plug, New Plug Wires, Bellhousing Studs, Center Force Dual Friction Clutch, Throwout Bearing, 160* Thermostat, Be Cool Radiator.

Finish gasket matching my Torker II intake. Finish re-painting misc. brackets. Pull the 350 out. Paint the engine bay and pretty it up. Drop the 468 in and break it in :cool: .

Gordon:
Yes, I'm using stock heads. I ordered the pushrods today from Jeg's. The nice thing about Jeg's is they give you 90 days to return any unwanted items. Hopefully these standard length pushrods will work for me.

Just out of curiousity, how can I tell if the pushrods are correct/incorrect? Thanks!

 

Bence

when you order the CF clutch, don't forget to get the adjustable clutch fork ball. I needed to use one when I put my CF in.

Terry

 

Once the motor is assembled and the rockers on you have to look and see where the roller tip is on the stem of the valve. If you devide the valve stem into 1/3 the roller should stay in the middle 1/3 all through the up and down movement of the rocker. If it is on the front or rear third of the stem it puts a lot of stress on the valve guides and wears them out quicker. If you have stock heads you should be OK but it is worth checking to make sure. There are some better directions for checking this mine is very condensed version.

 

Most manufactures make pushrods that are .100 longer etc etc...getting those won't be a problem. Some machine shops will also make them for you.

 

Talk about an awesome Easter! That's cool that you're doing all that yourself. I hope to be there in about a month. I need some warmer weather.

Take care and good luck with the rest. :cheers:

 

It's funny you should say that because I wasn't supposed to be doing this by myself. My uncle was supposed to help me assemble the rotating assembly. It has been tough to get my uncle motivated and over to my house to help me so I got impatient and assembled everything myself. He has been able to answer just about every question that I have asked him though. No big deal really, I just hope the engine stays together.

I have been keeping all of my receipts...I'm curious to see how much this project is actually costing me. Oh well I just keep telling myself I'm helping the economy :D .

 

Tell him you've got beer :lol:

 

He is a bit of a drinker LOL :lol:. Oh well the hardest part is over, it's all downhill from here. I slapped the cam in last night too...too bad I didn't have the ARP cam bolts or else I could have put the timing chain and cover on.

By the end of this week the engine should be nearly completely assembled. I called my machine shop, I'll be taking my heads in to them next week. I'm having them machined for valve seals. I believe they quoted me $.70 a seal for machining. While I'm at it I may have them assemble the heads for me (one less thing that can go wrong LOL). Easter is the target date to drop the engine in!

 

Bence, bravo to you for DIY!

Don't let the professional engine builders hype you into thinking it's impossible for a mere mortal to assemble one. With smarts and care and good parts you can do it! I've had grease monkeys tell me to my face "You're not an engine builder". Hard to feel bad when my engine is putting out nearly 500 lb-ft and I've driven my own hipo assemblies 80K miles. The only broken part so far (a piston ring land) was most likely due to detonation. :p:

Chances are good that you've taken more care in your work than some moroon in the back of some shop somewhere. Especially if he's putting it together after a 3 beer lunch.

Please note: I don't mean to dis pro engine builders in general, and those you out there on this forum certainly have more smarts and interest in the quality of your work than most.

-Noel

 

Please check that rod bolt torque. 67ft lbs sounds a litttle too much. Are these new bolts or new rods? Tom

 

I may be fallowing your steps sooner then I thought bence...I think I have a 305.... :confused: :cry

This will not do. :)

How much has the whole project run you? Better yet, if I built a bare minimum setup, what do you think it'd run me?

Daniel

 

Tom77:
These are new rods with new rod bolts. I followed the "How To Rebuild Big Block Chevys" book. It calls for 67ft lbs of torque for 7/16" rod bolts (what I have). 3/8" rod bolts are 50ft lbs of torque. Thanks for pointing that out though.

Dan:
305 = Ouch! :cry

To positively identify it check the casting numbers on the block (I could check them for you if you like). If you page me via Yahoo we can talk about this more in depth.

 

Keep up the good work, my man! Steady as she goes...