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What would cause a left outboard u-joint to fail in less than 1000 miles. I've had 2 fail so far in that time.
Could a twisted trailing arm cause this?
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When the 'U' joints on the half shafts were changed did they use this tool?
If this was not used at least the half shafts should be bolted together so the flange does not get bent.
Sounds like you have a bent u-joint bracket, may be on the half shaft or the wheel. Also, be careful if you are lifting the rear of the car and spinning the wheels - too much of an angle for the joints.
this time when you replace the ujoint, also replace the halfshaft to spindle outer flange.. it is probably bent.. if it is, then fix it right, get a new one.. be careful not to bend the new one!
Not to come across like a bubba or anything, but it's not hard at all to resquare the flanges. Just get a straightedge, carpenter's square, and a long socket wrench extension. Wrap a rag around one end of the extension, then use it to tweak those holes until they're both square with the flange and the straightedge sits flat across them.
(now everyone flame away at me )
In the future, you can avoid bending the flanges when removing u-joints simply by cutting out the trunions. Once the trunions are out, an air chisel will pop out those caps like nothing.
What''s the pedigree of the u-joints? They could be Chinese junk.
I agree with the previous comments about a possibly warped flange.
I think the original u-joints were AC Delco. Obtain some made in the US from a vette vendor, call Van Steel, Muskegan Brake, Wilcox, etc. Tom's Differential is a source also.
The u-joints that DO NOT have a jerke lubrication fitting are stronger.
Also, in removing the previous j-joints, you may have warped the holes in the flange where the u-joint fits into. I'd think off axis binding will kill a u-joint quickly. Maybe time to start pricing new flanges.
I installed the new u-joints with a press and they were not binding but I will check the ears when I replace them this time. Son took the car through a ditch backward a while ago so I was wondering if the ta might have been twisted a bit at the arm and the shaft do not align perfectly. I really do not want to have to replace the arm again,,,,wasn't fun the first time.
just a piece of advice,,,DO NOT share your toys with a teenager...they break them
I installed the new u-joints with a press and they were not binding but I will check the ears when I replace them this time. Son took the car through a ditch backward a while ago so I was wondering if the ta might have been twisted a bit at the arm and the shaft do not align perfectly. I really do not want to have to replace the arm again,,,,wasn't fun the first time.
just a piece of advice,,,DO NOT share your toys with a teenager...they break them
When my daughter was younger she would ask for the keys to my two hot rods. I just ask if she had $10K in the bank in case something happens. When I grew up my parents had a very simple rule. We don't call the insurance--- YOU PAY FOR IT!
I had this problem and tried everything I could think of. I finally figured if it was constantly breaking then something must be binding. Sure enough the rubber travel stop was broken on the side that kept giving out. When I hit the gears hard the back end would squat and the U-Joint would bind and break. I replaced the stop and now can burn out without guaranteed breakage.