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The readings you have are correct - in the second picture, the needle should NOT move because there is no connection (unless there is a SHORT of course) between the red OR yellow wires (PRIMARY side of the coil) to the "button" - that is on the SECONDARY winding of the coil.
I just Googled "test HEI coil" and came up with this-
Carbureted Engines
1. Connect an ohmmeter between the TACH and BAT terminals in the distributor cap. The primary coil resistance should be less than one ohm (zero or nearly zero).
2. To check the coil secondary resistance, connect an ohmmeter between the rotor button and the BAT terminal. Then connect the ohmmeter between the ground terminal and the rotor button. The resistance in both cases should be between 6000 and 30,000 ohms.
3. Replace the coil if the readings in Step 1 and 2 are infinite.
These resistance checks will not disclose shorted coil windings. This condition can be detected only with scope analysis or a suitably designed coil tester.
Hey I didn't want to start a thread and thought you guys were the closest to my topic. My '70 will rev to 5000+ in neutral. When in gear, the engine sputters at 3200 a lot. It runs smooth forever as long as I DRIVE below 3000 rpm. Last night it died when I had the light on. I think I need an aftermarket alternator with 140+ amps and a new ignition coil (Flame thrower). Any thoughts, should I start a new thread??? Still a new member
Thanks,
Leon 70 silver