BB Harmonic Balancer issues and more......
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
BB Harmonic Balancer issues and more......
Sooooo.....I have removed the harmonic balancer from a running 454 that I have, so that I could repaint the block and replace the timing chain cover....but now I have run into a question. How do you know when the harmonic balancer is on all the way? I used a puller to get the part off, and rented a HB installer from AutoZone....and it seems like it is on about 98%. Now it is REALLY hard to turn the nut that snugs the balancer up onto the crank shaft, and when I look down on the crankshaft, it looks like it needs to go another 1/4-1/2 or so.....but I don't know when to say when. Is the crankshaft supposed to be flush with the HB...when viewed from the front, or does it sit back in there a little ways? I took some photos and I hope you can see what I mean. And "yes"....the timing tab that you see MUST be made for a smaller diameter HB, because it would hit if I were bolt it up......son of a ......!!
Deja
Deja
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
Deja
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
Just measured the distance from the timing cover to the top (inside) edge of the balancer, and it's just a hair under 1"...like maybe 15/16". I've cranked on the HB installer, and I don't think I can get it any tighter. Can anyone think of a way to get it closer? I'm about at my wits end on what to do with this thing. I don't think it would have gotten as close as it is, if there were any issues with the keyways. Am I correct on that? 
Deja
Deja
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 886
From: Warminster PA
The first picture tells the story. The flange of the balancer should be practically flush with the end of the crankshaft when fully seated. Looks like you have a bit to go.
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
Last edited by thoyer; Mar 7, 2010 at 07:38 PM. Reason: forgot something
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
The first picture tells the story. The flange of the balancer should be practically flush with the end of the crankshaft when fully seated. Looks like you have a bit to go.
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
Deja
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 886
From: Warminster PA
Tom
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Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 782
Likes: 1
From: Magic Valley ID
The first picture tells the story. The flange of the balancer should be practically flush with the end of the crankshaft when fully seated. Looks like you have a bit to go.
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
I would remove the balancer, check the crank for any dings / burrs as well as the keyway. Also check the inside of the balancer, should be smooth all around. Put a light coat of oil on the crank snout and try it again.
Also put a light coat of oil on the timing cover seal.
Tom
Deja
Pro
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 596
Likes: 6
From: Irving Texas
I use half a tube of anti-seize compound on the crank snout and inner balancer....cuz it's inevitable that I will have to pull it out someday.
If you're worried that the balancer will slide out, use Locktite on the bolt.
If you're worried that the balancer will slide out, use Locktite on the bolt.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 886
From: Warminster PA
Pulled the HB back off, cleaned up the crank shaft and HB housing, and deburred the keyway slot on the HB itself. Used a chainsaw file since it was small enough to fit in the groove. Cleaned it up once more and applied a generous amount of lubricant to it and the seal.....and she's on!! Thank the Maker!! The end of the crank is almost completely flush with the end of the HB...in fact, I ran out of threads on the installer...so I'm going to call it good! Thanks for your help!
Deja
Deja
Glad to hear it worked out.
Tom
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 2,699
Likes: 886
From: Warminster PA
A properly torqued crank bolt should stay in place. There are some thread locking compounds that may be used, but you need to pay attention to how well they "lock" the threads and their breaking strength. With that being said, I have done many big blocks over the years and never used anything but the correct torque to keep the bolt in place.
Tom
