I am in the middle of a complete engine rebuild. I found out that a couple of my cylinders decided to bore themselves out about .014 over... So, here comes the complete .030 overbore and new pistons... But all that fun aside, I started cleaning out the empty engine compartment. I started to replace the electrical tape that is around the wire loom that holds the hot wire that goes to the positive lead on the ignition coil. Surprisingly, it was completely melted inside that electrical tape loom and there are large portions with bare wire showing. It's a wonder my ignition never shorted. Anyway, ideally I'd love to replace this wire (it's the yellow wire, if that makes a difference). Looks to be about a 16 AWG wire. I've been advised by my mechanic neighbor to just put shrink wrap over the wire because they've been designed at the factory to have a built in resistance ( my ignition does not have the resistor).

Is it possible to replace this wire without negatively affecting ignition resistance or am I better off just putting shrink wrap around it?

As always, thanks for any help.

Bill.

I'm sure this will be the first of may questions to follow. But here's a picture of my exploded engine in my garage, in case you want to sympathise...

 

My advice.
Cut the wire at the coil and key switch. Remove and replace it with a regular 14g wire.
Get a new coil and ballast resistor. It got hot for a reason. Either you have/had a problem with that wire or the coil. Coils and resistors are cheap, about $35 less than a tow.
Gary

 

Vette68-
Garys post is correct, good approach! And I would ask you, would you repair your gas line with duct tape and call it good?! Of course not!! Don't just patch the wire and hope for the best. It fried for a reason. I would be inclined to try and find that reason. After all, we all hate doing the same job twice!!
I haven't had a need to replace res. wire in many moons, so I don't know where to tell you to purch it. Garys advise to 'substitute' the resistor and replace wire would also be my attack.
Additional advise: if you're looking for lasting results, don't use the hdwre store variety elect PCV tape. Go to an elect supply house and purch the industrial grade tapes. Some w/out adhesive for long wraps, w/adhesive for ends and attachments. Plus I use the adhesive cloth for joints/connectors, etc...Good Luck -Rod :chevy

 

On my '72 the yellowish wire was from the starter small terminal...and gives full battery voltage for cold starts....when starter is relaxed, the power comes from your firewall connector under the master cylinder, it is typically black and is the famed resistor wire, it's a steel core wire so the external resistor is not needed, unless replaced with copper wire...
I would just go with an HEI system, and forgetaboutbothwires....replace with a nice heavy pink wire and get an electronic tach to ditch that silly tach too....

GENE

 

this wire is supposed to become warm because it is a resister wire. And the cracked insulation is to be expected after so many years of service. there is a company at http://www.lectriclimited.com that sells the starter replacement wiring for the car and it is factory accurate and relatively inexpensive. The best part is there is no guess work about resistence just install it. They also have excellent excellent wiring diagrams. This info is straight from the great guys and gals here on the forum :smash: :cool: :cool: :seeya