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Removing leafs to lower rear

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 07:24 AM
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Default Removing leafs to lower rear

Has anyone tried this?
Just wondering if it would work. I got some lowering bolts, but it's not enough.
Thx!
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 08:22 AM
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if you do this be sure to check the bolt length so that the two front bolts don't bottom out in the blind holes and crack the differential case.
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 71coupe
Has anyone tried this?
Just wondering if it would work. I got some lowering bolts, but it's not enough.
Thx!
sounds like you need a different spring if longer bolts won't do it....
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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what length bolts are you using, who made the spring you are using?
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 09:53 AM
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Played around with leafs until I got where I wanted it. Didn't want to use longer bolts.


Originally Posted by noonie
Here are some pics of the Gulstrand lower leaf. It's 3/4" shorter each end. Original was too close with the stock alloys and BF Goodrich 255 60 tires.
Thicker than stock spring.



Less arch than original. This shows the difference in length when it is flatter as discussed in several earlier posts. It makes quite a difference.
The flatter Gulstrand is actually 1 1/2" shorter than the spring above it.



The head of the new center bolt had to be ground to recess into the centering hole, so as not to poke a hole in the diff.



I made a plate to reinforce tha original that bends easily. It also served as a spacer, so that the original mount bolts could be used along with a couple of the old springs cut for spacers. It can be changed back to oem easily.



Mounted to the diff.



You can count the leafs. (Leaves doesn't sound right)
6" bolts were used and poly cushions cut to half thickness on a lathe.
My intent was to end up with about 1 to 1 1/4" gap between the top of the tire and the fender lip.
The ride is firm and it will not bottom out on the bumpers, but we probably have the best roads in the country down here too.
The shocks are full hydraulic Konis, that are neutral in any position, unlike the gas shocks.
Don't know what the spring rate is, but the ride is firm, the travel is minimal and the cornering is great. My wife doesn't even complain, but it may be too firm for some.

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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 11:00 AM
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I use that same Guldstrand spring on my 72 LT-1 just the main leaf, gives a factory F-41 a perfect spring rate for a dual purpose Vette (street/autocross.)
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Old Mar 12, 2010 | 12:09 PM
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I installed a 7-leaf a while ago - not sure who made it. It's firm though. I ordered the longer spring bolts from Mid-America, 7" - could have used an 8" or 9" bolt.

Question on that Guldstrand short main spring, is it the same one that Tom's diff sells for about $40 less?

http://www.tomsdifferentials.com/catalog.asp?pg=25

http://www.guldstrand.com/scripts/pr...?idproduct=107


I need to make room for the 295-50-15's I ordered..
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Old Mar 14, 2010 | 09:56 PM
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I just got my new tires: 265-50r15 front, & 295-50r15 rear. The pic below shows the 295 compared to the old 255-60.



Just waiting on the new spring now
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 12:51 AM
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Originally Posted by 71coupe
I just got my new tires: 265-50r15 front, & 295-50r15 rear. The pic below shows the 295 compared to the old 255-60.



Just waiting on the new spring now
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 06:17 PM
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I brought mine to the local spring shop and had him de-arch the spring until it was were I wanted it.

I had an extra leaf (noonie ) added to increase the rate.

I also used short bolts to allow the spring ends to extend into the wheels (18").

Neal
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Old Mar 15, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 71coupe
I just got my new tires: 265-50r15 front, & 295-50r15 rear. The pic below shows the 295 compared to the old 255-60.



Just waiting on the new spring now

You may want to do a test fit for your trailing arm or at least the emergency bracket with those tires and a shrter spring and original 6" bolts would work nicely.





Originally Posted by chevymans 77
I brought mine to the local spring shop and had him de-arch the spring until it was were I wanted it.

I had an extra leaf (noonie ) added to increase the rate.

I also used short bolts to allow the spring ends to extend into the wheels (18").

Neal
Your lucky to have a real spring shop local. The EPA took care of most of them.
Back in the late 70's I took a Chevy 1 ton into a spring shop in the morning in Shreveport, and picked it up early in the afternoon.
They built all new springs for heavy 5th wheel hauling and charged a little over a 100 bucks.
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