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The block should be OK. You have to replace the crank and pistons for a 383 and the rods should also be replaced. So the only thing you will be using is the block.
Should use a 4 bolt block if building a 383. You can find them at your local machine shop, junk yard, Craigs list ect. If your under 450hp you can use a Scatt 9000 rotating assembly, if your going to run it hard get a forged assembly.
I just got a est. for a machine shop it prep a 30yr old block.....550 + 150 to clearence it for 383 crank total of 700 plus if you don't have a block add another 100 for a grand total of 800.
I just got a est. for a machine shop it prep a 30yr old block.....550 + 150 to clearence it for 383 crank total of 700 plus if you don't have a block add another 100 for a grand total of 800.
The problem with GM blocks they still need to be soinic tested and their decks aree all over the place and if you put a torque plate on the block and check the cylinder for roundness I don't think you will be hapey with what you see.
Even though its new they need a lot of work to make them right!!
I bought this block (http://www.sdpc2000.com/details/gm-p...parts/10066034) in 2005 took to the machine shop to check it out with the pistons to check the wall clearearence and they said it was perfect and also had a very nice hone onit. All I had to do was install the oil plugs and dowls in, clearence it for the 383 crank and rods, run it thru a washer then I put it togeather.
I'm using the original L48 block in mine. Not the most powerful 383 in the world but its got about 100 quarter mile passes on it with no problems. Cast crank too.