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Steering knuckle removal

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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 06:54 AM
  #1  
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From: Waldorf Md
Default Steering knuckle removal

HOLY COW BATMAN this is a nightmare!!!!

Well let me stat by saying I cant be really surprised by anything at this point I mean after all its a 36year old car right.

Heres my problem. At first I started by doing a simple replacing of the wheel bearings. Well come to find out the outter one was litterally in pieces. The inner core of it actually melted to the spindle and I couldnt even cut it off So being positive like I am and very patient with my true love I decided no big deal I will just replace the front spindle, dust shield, upgrade the brake lines and even the ball joints since Im gonna go all out. Ordered all my parts and started to tackle the job and as soon as I start im done. I cant get that darn knuckle to slide off. Ive done everything ive read about it. IVe placed a jack under the lower control arm for support, Ive removed the steering rod, loosened the upper and lowere ball joint bolts and I cannot get this spindle to slide down. Even my 5lb sledge hammer wont work. Are their any suggestions out their. Im desperate here and I knew that if anyone could assist it would be someone from this wonderful site.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 08:42 AM
  #2  
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Originally Posted by smcd32
HOLY COW BATMAN this is a nightmare!!!!

Well let me stat by saying I cant be really surprised by anything at this point I mean after all its a 36year old car right.

Heres my problem. At first I started by doing a simple replacing of the wheel bearings. Well come to find out the outter one was litterally in pieces. The inner core of it actually melted to the spindle and I couldnt even cut it off So being positive like I am and very patient with my true love I decided no big deal I will just replace the front spindle, dust shield, upgrade the brake lines and even the ball joints since Im gonna go all out. Ordered all my parts and started to tackle the job and as soon as I start im done. I cant get that darn knuckle to slide off. Ive done everything ive read about it. IVe placed a jack under the lower control arm for support, Ive removed the steering rod, loosened the upper and lowere ball joint bolts and I cannot get this spindle to slide down. Even my 5lb sledge hammer wont work. Are their any suggestions out their. Im desperate here and I knew that if anyone could assist it would be someone from this wonderful site.
Do you own a pickle fork (ball joint separator)? If not, go buy one. Mine was $13 at Autozone. Soak the joints in PB blaster and tap the separator in between to get it in place and hammer away. I actually had to get it lodged in there, stand up and swing from a bent over position to get one side to separate. Be patient, they will come apart.

If you are going this far, there is no good reason not to consider a full front end rebuild. I am in the process of mine as we speak. Here are some great references:

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_...%20rebuild.pdf

http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...n-rebuild.html
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:07 AM
  #3  
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From: coffee
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You need some kind of ball joint separator, either the pickle fork as crvtownr described or another specialty tool that is a little more precise.

All I had was the pickle fork, and for the life of me I couldn't get the upper BJ to separate from the spindle. I actually took the control arm off the car with the spindle still attached(replacing bushings too) and wailed on the pickle fork with a sledge hammer to get it to let go. Hopefully it doesn't come to that for you.

Oh the joys of front end work. I started in on mine in May of 2008 and ended up replacing the engine (long story) which is yet to run. A classic case of "while I'm in there".
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:17 AM
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Not sure if you having issues with the ball joints or the steering knuckle. The steering knuckle is the part that the tie rods attach to and turn the wheels when steering. The steering knuckles attach to the spindle via two bolts. The spindle is what the ball joints attach to.

If you have an air compressor and an air hammer you can use a Lisle 41400 pickle fork set with the air hammer to separate the tie rods and ball joints.

I also like the OTC 6295 set that allows you to pop tie rods and balljoints without cutting the grease cups.

The air hammer and pickle forks work real good and tend to work better than beating on the stuff and also are a real benefit where space is an issue for hammer blows.

These joints can be a real buster especially when they've been on for 40 years.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:46 AM
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IF this is your first front suspension job... I have to ask the question.

How are you compressing the front spring? Be real careful with that baby.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:09 AM
  #6  
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From: Waldorf Md
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Wow you al are fast.

Yes this is my first time attempting this project.
I am supporting the lower control arm with my floor jack and I have run a chain thru the spring for safety. Ive also got both nuts on the lower and upper ball joints loosely on their by about 5 turns each.

Im going to attempt to use my tie rod separator again and place it between the ball joint and spindle and hammer away. Like in the corvette magazine web site recommended by crvtownr. But this time Im really gonna hit it. I was trying this last night but grease was shooting from the ball jount pouch and just pissed me off. Now that Im over that quirk I am gonna try again tonight.

Another question is do I need to let up off the tension of the lower control arm? Or keep it lifted a little? Would it be easier if I remove the shock first too?

Nate99 you scare me. Hopefully enough that I can get mine off without your delimas taht you had.

Also is a tie rod seperator and ball joint seperator the same tool?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 10:20 AM
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Sorry for the horror story, I knew I was going to swap the engine out too, I just moved it up in priority after I had the radiator and all of the accessory brackets off. I don't get much time to work on it, which is why it hasn't run yet (but it's close, I swear).

Read the whole sordid mess.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:07 AM
  #8  
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Thats apretty in depth story. Just remember good things come to those who wait or procrastinate.
Cant wait to see the final results. Are you taking alot of pictures to document the rebuild for us to enjoy?
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:51 AM
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From: coffee
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Originally Posted by smcd32
Thats apretty in depth story. Just remember good things come to those who wait or procrastinate.
Cant wait to see the final results. Are you taking alot of pictures to document the rebuild for us to enjoy?
I have a few, but not a lot. I'll probably do another round once I get it running. I just got my timing light and break-in oil. I just need a new battery charger/jumper and I'll be in business.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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I hate to admit I'm a bit of an old-timer, but if the shoe fits. Years ago before I had a pickle fork, I would remove ball joints by loosening the nuts on both ball joints about four or five turns. Don't do anything to deactivate the spring at this time - let it keep pressure on the ball joints. Now take a BFH (hammer) and beat on the SIDE of the spindle where the ball joint stud goes through it. Don't hit the ball joint stud. You'll just peen the end and it will never come out. It may take fifty blows before it comes off, but eventually there will be a big POP and the ball joint will separate from the spindle. Now you can put the jack under the spring, or install the spring compressor, or whatever, and finish the job.
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Old Mar 16, 2010 | 11:48 PM
  #11  
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I have always had success by hitting the spindle right where the ball joint shaft goes through it with a heavy hammer. It takes several good whacks but they always pop for me. I do the top one first and the spring helps push it up so you can see it has released. Then when I do the bottom one, the weight of the spindle will cause it to drop when it releases.
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Old Mar 17, 2010 | 01:25 AM
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I've found that taking 2 big hammers and whacking both sides of the spindle where the ball joint stud passes through worked the best. I beat one one side of the first joint a bunch and it would not pop but about 3 whacks with 2 hammers at once and it popped. I thought it was a fluke until I did the 2 hammers on the rest of them and it worked there too. You have to be co-ordinated enough to hit both sides at the same time.

Peter
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Old Mar 18, 2010 | 08:28 AM
  #13  
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WHEW I got it off.

I hit it for about 20 min without as much as a budge. Then I decide to try the tie rod fork and 2 hits into it it broke free.
I did have to remove the tension from the floor jack though. I lowered it to about 3 inched below the control arm and that helped alot i think. Either way its off to do the other side now.

Thanks to everyone with their great ideas. I love this site.
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