richiev88

I have just bought a cam to go with my new AFR195's, interested in opinions. Seem to be some very experenced guys here.
Car is to be street driven, 10:1 comp, 359 cu, holley 4150 D/P 650cfm.
4 Speed car, (not sure on rear ratio)

Comp cams 282S magnum solid flat tapped
236/236 @50
.495/.495
Was tempted to go bigger but wanted to keep some vacume. Not sure I should have gone for more valve lift, as the heads will take up to .600.
Has header 1 5/8, msd ign.
Thinking single plane intake, currently has Edelbrock EPS dual plane.

Thanks Richie

The Money Pit

This cam you have picked is right in line with what I'd pick, but I tend to like that fender shakin thing going on at idle. Some like it smoother, but not me. It would be nice to know the gears in the rear for a better understanding of the whole combination though. On the other hand you have a 4 speed,so if you are OK with working that clutch a bit off the line, the cam you picked should work well.

I have run both a RPM, and Vic Jr on mine, and ended up going back to the RPM. The cam I run is ragged edge race car, and I was having a huge problem getting an idle in gear (mines an automatic), so I went to the dual plane to help that out. The difference between the two intakes was not that much at the top end, as the RPM will still pull into the 7000 rpm range,...but the idle is much better now. (Idles around 1000 in gear)

billla

You kinda made the cam decision when you bought the heads; that cam is leaving a LOT of power on the table. You're thinking about a single-plane, but putting in a mild cam? Making power is all about matching parts...so let's match them

Gear ratio is required for a cam recommendation, as it's all about where in the RPM range you want to make power - but you'll want some serious lift and the best choice is likely a retrofit hydraulic roller to get the full capabilities of those heads.

richiev88

Hi, I probably only gave half the story, I just bought the car, still on the warf in LA. I have bought the parts to ship with the car, as they are much cheaper state side. The car has a 500 mile old 2 bolt .60 over rebuild by the previous owner. The bottom end has a scat cast crank, std rods and summitt racing flat tops...... I plan to build up a 383 bottom end with a new block and solid roller cam, forged. Plannig to put the AFR's on the 383.

In the interum, thought I would bolt the heads cam and carb on. I choose the cam thought it should not cause to many hassles with clearence and stress on the current bottom end.
Thought it would be an interesting build to see what gains I get over stock heads and mild hyd cam.

I realise the cam is too small for a 383, but it was only $200us, which is cheap for us down under, as we tend to have to pay about 3 x the US$ price at home for parts.

I put the AFR head specs into comp cams software for cam selection, ran the profiles, this cam seemed to give the best over all performance of the softer cams.

I would have gone hyd roller, but was a cost thing, as I will need a more agressive cam for the 383 bottom end, probably can sell this one out used and re coupe my cost.

Was a difficult decision to go so soft on the cam, I run a big solid roller in my 70 camaro, but need this car to be a drive not a racer.

Thanks for the input

Ganey

It's a good street cam. You don't need a single plane & may not have clearance for the better hi rise single planes.

billla

I'd personally pass on putting the 195's on the existing engine.

The CompCams "CamQuest" product is sadly junk I've seen a mild cam show 500+ HP

My suggestion would be to just drive it the way it is...and look forward to your 383! 195's are not at all small for a 383 unless you're looking for maxium effort engine.

richiev88

Ok that interesting, the HP numbers seemed high, as I pluged in my camaro engine specs and they were nearly 100hp more than the dyno...ha
What cam would you suggest for the 383?
I prob will keep rear end in the 3:55 area, as I plan to run some circuit track classic events. The plan is to raise comp to 11:1 with the new short block, be able to drive to the track and home again, but still be able to have a few weekend journeys. I have liked solid roller for my track engines, but would a hyd roller be suitable if not turning harder the 7000 rpm ?and keeping streetabe ? I would like to be making 550 ish HP realistic ?

richiev88

Yes wondered on the hood clearence, it has a bb hood, though I should be ok for a low rise single plane?

Ganey

That's very good. Yes, you could do a nice setup w/ Weiand Team G 7530. The Victor Jr. will be tight w/ a drop base 14" perf. air filter setup.

billla

Sounds like a beastly build .

The 195's are going to be a bit on the small side for 550 FWHP, but 500 is in the ballpark.

11:1 static works, if you pick a big cam to bleed some off. It'll be worth doing the DCR math to figure out the right approach.

Hydraulic rollers keep up with solid rollers right up to around 6200 RPM or so...

I would post a fresh thread on the 383 build - lots of smart folks to weigh in. Some I disagree with, but they're still smart

richiev88

We have 98 octane pump gas down here. ( over race gas street cars, its too difficult)
My engine builder loves solid rollers, lots of compression and lift, and quote " rev the hell out of it", guess because he mostly builds sprint car engines and circuit track.
Sounds like a solid roller may still be the best option, as prob need to turn to 7000rpm, would this be much beyond the heads flows?, or are you saying they will be all over at 6200 with a 383 and correct cam ?
DCR math?
Yes there are many experts and some smart guys about, guess it a matter of knowing enough to seperate the good from the B/S.
You think the 195's would be a waste on the current short block ?

73, Dark Blue 454

I have used that cam with, coincidently, with 195 AFR's (the older castings) on a 350 cid 4-Speed 69 Camaro with 3.73's.

It's a great combo. That cam will rev to 6500 and is very streetable in a 350.

Run it and don't look back.

lionelhutz

Seriously consider a hydraulic roller. Part of the reason the LT1/LT4 and LSx engines make such good power is the roller cam. And all the new engines with hydraulic rollers live a very long life, even the fairly high lift engines such as the LT4's and some of the LTx's.

You can get a cam in the range of 230 degrees duration and 0.55" lift and it should end up with a much wider torque curve. You might trade a little maximum power to boost the power everywhere else but it'd be a good trade off.

A solid roller would be good too but I've read about some street failures and that would give me a bad feeling knowing the cam was a little more prone to self destruct after dumping a bunch of cash into a new engine.

Maybe something like a Comp 286HR - 230/230 degrees and 0.56/0.56" lift, 2500-6000rpm or 304HR - 244/244 degree, 0.6/0.6" lift, 3000-6500rpm.

Remember, those rpm ranges will move down a little with a 383 since they're typically spec'd for a 350 using that cam.

Peter

richiev88

Thanks for the input, was planning something bigger for the 383, as you suggested in the 240's and around .600, I believe the new bee hive springs will live ok with this lift. The 282S was really a interim measure till I can sneak some cash aside for the short block.
I understand solid rollers don't like prolonged low rpm running, perhaps hyd roller is the plan.
Was very tempted to go for more lift with the solid flat tapped I just bought, but did not want any clearance issues with the current short block.

Thanks Richie

richiev88

Good to know, I over cammed my last street car engine, ended up never driving it because it was so fussy.
Do you know what power you were making? compression ?

AutoX-Z06

That's a pretty small cam, remember its a solid so its similar to a 224 224 hyd. I don't know if 10:1 would be to much compression but it would be close. I used the XS286 solid in a 350 and loved it. 11 inches of vacuum at idle. Most likely to big for some, but 3k - 6700 was a blast and I didn't have to worry about frying the tires to bad. Something in the 240's range with some better lift would work well with those heads. A good duel plane like The Money Pit says will work well.

Little Mouse

The cam manufacture's in recent yrs have came out with hydraulic
roller lifters that can handle up to 575 lbs of spring pressure. I'm not saying you would have to have that high of spring pressure to put your power range up above 6200. These lifters cost twice as much money as the regular ones.

What you should consider for your 383 is a solid street roller, they don't
require the big spring pressure's that are hard on the lifters, and everything else.

It sounds like your not really trying to put 20,000 miles on your car per yr as if it were a daily driver then you would want a hydraulic roller. If it were me with what most old vettes might see 5,6 thousand miles per yr, I would just use a solid street roller. Plus with the less aggressive solid street roller it will still flat out make better power then a hydrauilc roller.

lionelhutz

I read again that you're thinking a new cam for the 383 and not planning to move this cam over from the 350. I'd say that cam would be good for a 350.

The solid roller for the 383 might be OK if you're careful. One comment I've read speculated the lash in a solid allows the lifter to bounce on the cam and those small impacts damaged the roller. You could try a rev kit with the springs pushing down directly on the lifters. You could also groove the lifter bores or buy the lifters with direct oiling to the rollers. And then, as long as you keep the lift under 0.6" you're not into the big lifts in the 0.7" to 0.8"+ that some people are trying to run.

All-in-all, it would likely work fine if you take every possibly precaution you come up with.

Peter

BLOCKMAN

We have built some 383's with the AFR 195's and dynoed both the one with 2925 made the best power and it was a adv.284/284 @.050 232/232 A.200 141/141 on a 110 pobe sep.

http://www.chevelles.com/forums/showthread.php?t=236517

billla

Keep in mind that changing heads isn't a "bolt on" operation - you need to check valvetrain geometry, etc. That's why I'd just enjoy the existing engine the way it is and set the 195's aside.

The AFRs aren't too big for a 350, but the low RPM range will be soggy for sure. Without knowing the gears, it's hard to say how big of a deal that is. 3.73s or better and you're OK. You'll still want to maximize the heads with the cam - putting a mild cam with big runners just makes for a dog.