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I just replaced the original clutch. The clutch was a factory 11" which was replaced with a Ram 11". The flywheel was resurfaced and everything went together without a hitch, but with the clutch adjustment is all the was out and I don't have full engagement on the clutch. It's like I need another 1 inch on the rod length. I can just peek inside the clutch fork hole and everthing seems to be working correctly, but I still have too much freeplay.
Suggestions?
Dave
I also replaced the clutch rod from the z-bar to the fork. The orig had an oblonged hole at the fork end, and at the other end, it was worn as well. I checked and it is the same length as the old one.
Before anyone asks, the t/o bearing is not backwards and it is attached to the fork correctly. That was the 1st thing I checked when I looked in the fork hole.
There are different length throw out bearings. The Ram clutch you used is a bent cone diaphram clutch? If you went to a Borg/Beck style clutch you probably have the wrong TOB.
You may need a new clucth pivot ball stud with a longer length there were 3 different lengths offered by Chevy, I think only 2 are avalible now or you can get an adjustable one.
The clutch is a diaphram type, I did not think to see if the t/o bearing was the same length and it's to late now. As far as cutting and welding I thought about doing that but only as a last resort. Somethings not right here.
I have a raised fingers 11" diaphram pressure plate w/short TOB. I used Keislers copy of the 621 bell and set my pivot ball distance to the suggested 4.75" (from attached pdf file) with expected results: works great. Also replaced my OEM linkage with Speed Direct's clutch linkage kit and no issues there either.
I understand there are a long TOB and a short TOB for Chev: short for use with peaked clutch fingers (B&B or diaphram) or long for fingers that lay more flat.
Can't speak to a third TOB? Maybe someone can ID. Hope this gives comparison info. Good luck.
Last edited by Dustup7T2; Mar 23, 2010 at 04:35 PM.
If you have to extend the rods past the factory setup something is not right. Fix it right. Either the wrong TOB or you need a different pivot stud.
I was in the same boat as you last year ,
and i let it sit for over a year+ [so pissed]
I have a 71 vert 350 with a ram clutch.......
Dont cut nothing , the fork will hit the back of
bellhousing
the fingers on a ram clutch ARE LOWER ,
the only way to fix it is a new clutch or what i did pulled it back out \
put in the longer BALL STUD ON THE BELLHOUSING .
chevy made a short and long ,the long will make it right.
i was so mad i had a clutch shop do it for me
for $400 cash
sorry for the bad NEWS
Thanks all, I will consider all my options. Doing it correctly involves pulling the trans and I'm not sure I want to do that so soon seeing as how mine didn't want to come out all that easy. Plus the fact I'm old and my back can't take cold concrete floors like they use to.
Dave
Plus the fact I'm old and my back can't take cold concrete floors like they use to.
Dave
Boy, I know what you mean. I'm 65 and there's no question it's harder to get "down and under" than it used to be. I bought a trannie jack (one of the scissors jobs from Harbor Freight) and it makes pulling the trannie much easier.
I ordered the Mcleod adjustable from summit, cause it was the only one in stock and it looks like it adjusts the longest. I don't know how much longer it needs to be but I'm thinking an inch should do it. Actually it better do it cause Im not gonna do this again. Gonna crawl under today and start rippin her apart AGAIN.