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I have some stuff I got from JC Whitney and am in the process of installing it and ther carpet now. So far no problems. Just putting it on the firewall area, foot area and under the seats, not behind the driver
I just spray glued down the heat barrier. Layed the carpet on top of it(what I did so far) Believe it or not a lot of heat comes through that firewall. :yesnod:
I bought & installed a kit from Zip. I don't think I can tell the difference in heat, but, black on black, without air is pretty hot so that may be why. Also, I can't really say that the kit is worth the price. If I was to do it over again (and I would just to know it's there), I would probably buy a sheet of insulation and fit it myself.
I installed a product called "Refectix" under my entire interior and on the outside of the firewall. 50 ft. roll was $40.00. It is basically 1/4" plastic bubble wrap with foil on both sides. Got it at ACE hardware. I understand the down side is it will compress under pressure (like your heel area by the throttle pedal), but I'm not seeing it yet. It cut my heat in half, at least. Plus, it's waterproof. I used 3M spray adhesive to glue it down.
Wasn't expensive, fit well, and definantly made a differance. With that and a manual hot water shut off valve, the car is quite driveable now in the warmer weather. (not great, no a.c) but a helluva lot better.
Now for a completely different opinion: I bought a kit from Mid America, Ecklers AND Zip. All were total crap. Too much heat with dual exhaust. Probably would be even with 2-1-2.
The problem is that these pre-cut sections only cover about 60% of the floor area, and leave out the most important parts. GET A ROLL AND CUT YOURSELF!!!! It was a night and day difference.
Now for a completely different opinion: I bought a kit from Mid America, Ecklers AND Zip. All were total crap. Too much heat with dual exhaust. Probably would be even with 2-1-2.
The problem is that these pre-cut sections only cover about 60% of the floor area, and leave out the most important parts. GET A ROLL AND CUT YOURSELF!!!! It was a night and day difference.
You the man! Thats precisely why I went to Pep Boys and bought two rolls of their foil backed insulation for $40 and covered 100% of my interior floor (incl. firewall, trans tunnel, behind seats, rear compartment floor & wheelwells). I sealed all the seams with metal tape so I have basically a single blanket of insulation throughout the car. Its reduced the cockpit temp and really almost eliminated road & exhaust noise.
The kits are TOO EXPENSIVE and only do half the job.
I originally installed a heat barrier kit when I replaced the carpets in my 74 about 12 years ago. i saw no difference between the kit and no kit. About a year ago I decided to get serious and insulated the cockpit with a product called "The Insulator". I got it from Jegs. If you want to see the results go to this address http://users.snip.net/~vettfixr/page14.htm
It's not an easy job but the results were worth it. The full insulation cuts down on a lot of the body boom and resonance from the exhaust and keeps the interior a lot cooler.
Save yourself a few $$. Go to Home Depot and you can buy that stuff on a roll. 4 ft. by 20ft for about 20 to 25 dollars. when you take your old carpet out use it as a pattern fro the insulation. I did this on mine, and it worked out very well. The insulation that I got, was the aluminum foil and bubble type use for heating duct insulation.
Installed "Reflectix" (sp) from Home Depot two years ago. The bubbles are still there and I've had people comment on how cool and quiet my vette is on the inside.
Two other things you should consider are:
1) Cover the A/C box in the engine compartment. Notice how close the exhaust manifold is. The foil will reflect and block a major source of radiated heat from the engine that gets in the cabin. My Reflectix is as good as new in this area. It doesn't seem to mind the heat.
2) Make sure the hood seals tightly at the cowl. If it doesn't, engine compartment heat will flow directly into the cabin air intake.
3) Do the storage compartment also. This is where the sound insulation works well.
Some people have noted the bubbles are noisy when they are stepped on. They are right, but I don't spend alot of time walking around inside my cabin.
And, as some have noted, take your tops off, roll the windows down and drive fast.
Todbo, inside the cabin. Get way up under the dash near where the steering column goes through the firewall.
Glad to see that I am not to only one who found out the hard way. The kits all basically don't do the job. Here is a pic of my job (before I put in the front pieces)
Sounds like we're all on the same page here. Mine looked just like vettefxr's when I was done. Todbo, I put the stuff on both sides of the firewall, because I couldn't get up high enough on the inside.
I might also mention, the Reflectix is VERY light! I am on a mission to reduce the overall weight of my vette (power to weight ratio is king!) and I'm down to 3160 pounds with the spare in, but no A/C compressor.
Also, be sure and put a foam "collar" over the bellhousing to seal off the tunnel. I again passed on the "proper" part available from ZIP, etc. and bough a 2x2 length at ACE. When it gets grungy, I just toss it and wedge in a new one!
It prevents heated air (from the engine, radiator, headers,etc.) from flowing through the tunnel area. this is aggrevated if you have an automatic trans; they generate a lot of heat all by themselves! It helped on mine...
Pretty well covered. Youy can buy the kits or buy the insulated barrier wrap from a Home Depot, Ace etc. Need to take out the seats and the carpet. Don't bother with the console as you can press it under it. Run it up the inside of the fire wall. Use the 3M Spray Glue to tack it down anywher it comes in contact with the floor.
Does it help - I have 73 BBC and it easily dropped the cabin temp 15 degrees along with some sound insulation. If you couple this with the transmission insulation that fits between the trans the floor, it is much more pleasant on a hot day.