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I intend to check the price on CD2 High Performance Oil Boost this weekend. I need to change the oil in both the L48 and my Yamaha motorcycle (both are 30 years old this year).
I have a package of 5 bottles of ZDDPlus that I just ordered and received. I will sell for my cost of $44.25 + shipping. I am using Brad Penn's 10W-40 High Peformance Oil and the manufacuturer does not recomend adding any additives to their oil, hence the sale.
I have a package of 5 bottles of ZDDPlus that I just ordered and received. I will sell for my cost of $44.25 + shipping. I am using Brad Penn's 10W-40 High Peformance Oil and the manufacuturer does not recomend adding any additives to their oil, hence the sale.
Oil manufacturers do not recommend adding addiutives to their oil.
Why not just use oil that has the proper amount of ZDDP, in the first place?
I use Valvoline VR1 10W30 in my flat tappet stroker. Valvoline (and most other manufacturers) web sites should have the specs. Use whatever oil suits you.
BTW, just bought another case of VR1. $4.50 a quart, but a far cry from the price of the boo-tique oils.
I am always amazed, that people who claim to care about their cars, keep searching Wally World for the cheapest oil they can find, and it usually does not suit their car.
Also GM says not to use additives in Corvettes period. I use Valvoline SynPower 10w30. Has everything your engine needs. I buy the 5 quart jug for around 20.00 @ WalMart
Oil manufacturers do not recommend adding addiutives to their oil.
Why not just use oil that has the proper amount of ZDDP, in the first place?
Because manufacturers sometimes misrepresent the composition of their oil.
I have seen posted analysis of both Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn oil that did not have the accepted minimum amounts of Zinc & Phosphorus. Maybe the analysis was wrong, but how do you know?
I have started running an additive for ZDDP just to be sure. I know oil companies dont recommend them, but it makes me feel better.
Since I am running a flat tappet cam with over .600" lift, I like knowing.
Also GM says not to use additives in Corvettes period. I use Valvoline SynPower 10w30. Has everything your engine needs. I buy the 5 quart jug for around 20.00 @ WalMart
That oil is API SM rated - so it can't have more than about 800 ppm ZDDP, which is not sufficient for a flat-tappet cam engine.
Their own MSDS lists Zinc at 840 ppm, and phosphorus at 770 ppm - far under the 1200 ppm minimum required.
Because manufacturers sometimes misrepresent the composition of their oil.
I have seen posted analysis of both Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn oil that did not have the accepted minimum amounts of Zinc & Phosphorus. Maybe the analysis was wrong, but how do you know?
I have started running an additive for ZDDP just to be sure. I know oil companies dont recommend them, but it makes me feel better.
Since I am running a flat tappet cam with over .600" lift, I like knowing.
You know by checking the sticky at the top of this section, and reading the VOAs. You should be running 1400 ppm or better ZDDP with that lift.
But extremely high levels of ZDDP can cause deposits which cause detonation, as well as having an adverse affect on lubricity of the oil. This is just some of the reasons they're not recommended.
Brad Penn clearly does NOT have sufficient ZDDP for flat-tappet cams regardless of their claims. The jury is still out on VR1, but I have a sample in for testing along with Royal Purple XPR.
Oil manufacturers do not recommend adding addiutives to their oil.
Why not just use oil that has the proper amount of ZDDP, in the first place?
I use Valvoline VR1 10W30 in my flat tappet stroker. Valvoline (and most other manufacturers) web sites should have the specs. Use whatever oil suits you.
BTW, just bought another case of VR1. $4.50 a quart, but a far cry from the price of the boo-tique oils.
I am always amazed, that people who claim to care about their cars, keep searching Wally World for the cheapest oil they can find, and it usually does not suit their car.
That's why I have the oil additive up for sale, I am using an oil with enough Zinc and Phosphorus, which in my case needs to be above the so called threshold amounts of 1200 ppm.
So, bottom line : why is it "not safe" to use ZDDP additives in our oils while cam manufacturers do recommend or even mandates to use them with the critical break-in period and sometimes will recommend to use the break-in additive (which to my knowledge is nothing but a ZDDP additive) in every oil change.
Lets face it, engine oil manufacturers will not recommend using ANY oil additive simply because they believe that if you want a high ZDDP oil you should simply buy a high ZDDP oil from their products range, I really don't think that it has anything to do with chemistry!
Have any of you disassembled a 30 year old engine and noticed a thick, black, tarry "gunk" sitting on all the horizontal surfaces in the engine? A lot of this is ZDDP from the old oil formulations. Modern additives are engineered to keep this additive in suspension. Moly is another additive that is now formulated to stay suspended. Aftermarket ZDDP additives don't necessarily have this capability. Zinc is heavy, it sinks. Buy the oil that contains the correct levels for your application formulated into the oil. Don't dump "gunk" into your engine.
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
Originally Posted by billla
You know by checking the sticky at the top of this section, and reading the VOAs. You should be running 1400 ppm or better ZDDP with that lift.
But extremely high levels of ZDDP can cause deposits which cause detonation, as well as having an adverse affect on lubricity of the oil. This is just some of the reasons they're not recommended.
Brad Penn clearly does NOT have sufficient ZDDP for flat-tappet cams regardless of their claims. The jury is still out on VR1, but I have a sample in for testing along with Royal Purple XPR.
Why not put a sample of Brad Penn oil in too ? My buddies shop has not had a single cam failure since he switched to BP oil in his new engines over 2 years ago
Now don't get all tied up in a knot here, I would like to know myself since I am running this oil in $15,000 engine
Last edited by MotorHead; Apr 3, 2010 at 05:56 PM.