I felt it start dragging 3 miles from home.
When I made it back the rotor was glowing red.
Paint on the caliper was blistering
Water on the rim to cool the tire bead boiled.

I'm thinking inspect the inner bead.
Inspect/Repack bearings
New Caliper and rotor.

Please give me your thoughts and experiences.

Thanks!

 

how old are the rubber brake lines to the caliper?

They break down internally and don't permit passage of brake

fluid to release pressure FROM caliper..........caliper does not release..

Simple solution....replace rubber brake lines.

Good Luck

 

I would replace the pads and rotor on the other side also. You the front brakes to be the same.

 

Why would you replace the rotor and caliper?

As other have said, find out what caused the drag and fix that, most likely it was the flex line.

 

Thanks for the chiming in so far.

Calipers, pads and rotors are relatively new (6 yrs and 2000 miles)
rotors look perfect.

I did flush the system with synthetic DOT3 4 years ago.(was that an oops?)

I'll look into the line. If the problem, would it be blocked?


I'm worried about the damage done.

Rotor - I'd be amazed if it were not warped (the way it was pounding with each rev of the wheel as I neared my driveway)

Caliper - at least rebuilt - I can't see the seals holding up to the temp it saw. the caliper was painted silver and that paint was burning off.
If it doesn't leak now - might it be alright???

Bearing seals ?????

 

It could be the flex line. I would think it is more likely the caliper itself. After you find the problem I would suggest replacing all the fluid again and checking all the flexible lines at least. The pads are probably shot from glazing. Let us know what you find.

 

no way to really inspect the flex lines, they break down inside and act like a check valve, they will allow the fluid to go out but not come back in. The first one i say do this, i replaced it then started cutting it about an inch at a time untill i found where it was broken down inside, it look perfect from the outside...

Chris

 

Your problem is the brake hose. I've experienced the same thing and yes, it acts like a check valve: fluid movement one way but not the other. The walls inside of the hose breakdown after time and exposure to the brake fluid and moisture.

If you'd like, this is easy to diagnose. You should be able to simulate your problem and fix it by doing the below:

1. Jack up the car and set it on stands, wheels pulled off.

2. Build pressure in your brakes by pumping them (engine running if PB). You should normally be able to rotate the rotor - if the caliper holds pressure on the rotor keep moving on in this process.

3. Crack open the joint at the brake hose and caliper. It should let out some fluid - tighten it back up. If fluid comes out then the caliper isn't holding pressure (it shouldn't).

4. Build up pressure again by pumping the brakes (engine running if PB). Crack open the joint at the brake hose (rubber)/brake line (steel). My guess is that there will be no pressure or fluid released which indicates that the hose walls are broken down inside and the hose needs to be replaced.

I'd strongly suggest stainless steel lines as they are going to be the longest lasting. Also, replace them all! Cheap insurance for another hose giving you problems while cruising, a broken hose causing your brakes to fail, or even a fire if the rotor and caliper get too hot and fluid sprays onto them if the hose breaks from the pressure. Not to scare you, but yes, take care of the braking issues right away. It should be an easy and inexpensive fix.

Gary