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That's right. There ar two types of VR1 oil for the prices noted. I was just there yesterday to get some "flat tappet" approved oil.
The OP might want to read the oil for old cars sticky at the top of the C3 page.
I did read the sticky. Looks like I'm going to have to go with the Mobil 1 15W-50. I prefer to run synthetics on my cars. To bad I already bought the VR1, but I'll find good use for it.
I did read the sticky. Looks like I'm going to have to go with the Mobil 1 15W-50. I prefer to run synthetics on my cars. To bad I already bought the VR1, but I'll find good use for it.
I read the sticky above and printed it out to bring with me, since I was going to do my first oil change on the LT-1 (with solids). I'm so glad that I came across this info. Well Walmart bombed out. I didn't see anything about flat tappets or the ZDDP rating on Mobil 15W-50 or any other oil there. So I went to Pep Boys. The Valvoline VR1 oil was there, but since it had "inconsistent test results", I decided that my engine wasn't worth risking. Royal Purple was also on the shelf, but no mention of ZDDP levels or flat tappet protection. So I went with Castrol Syntec 20W-50 (for classic cars), which did mention the ZDDP protection (no numbers though). That was good enough for me, and seemed well rated by the article. So today thats what I poured in, with better peace of mind than if I had made the mistake of using the Valvoline 10W-40 (conventional) oil I was originally going to use. The info on this forum is invaluable.
I've been using VR-1 10-30 in my 383 with Comp hydraulic flat tappet XE cam and lifter set. 2k+ miles since break in with RP break in oil. No issues and not one sliver of metal in oil. Seems to be working fine for me, and the price accommodates more frequent oil changes which I do twice per year regardless of miles.
VR-1 tests inconsistently for ZDDP - see the sticky
Mobil 1 15W-50 has adequate ZDDP (see mobil 1 product guide), but is too thick at startup where 90% of engine wear occurs (see Dr. A.E. Haas paper from "FerarriChat")
Royal Purple should be OK according to manufacturer and comes in lower weights, but I haven't seen VOA tests to prove and sometimes the manufacturer claims seem at odds with the tests (eg. Brad Penn).
Amsoil 10W-40 AMO synthetic is a great choice, but is $9 a quart
Redline products also excellent but $10 a quart
A good option, that I will be using, is Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40. The product guide specifies that it contains 12 ppm zinc, which is ideal, and is available in gallon jugs at Walmart at a good price.
VR-1 tests inconsistently for ZDDP - see the sticky
Yes I read the sticky and believe Vavoline more than I believe the tin hats! Look these guy's have been around a long time...and have a great reputation. They make VR-1 as a special blend and market it and state in the product guide the levels of protection it offers, which by the way is the only reason to offer VR-1 as a unique product. Why would they risk their rep and a false advertsing lawsuit over this? I don't buy it! This whole thing is more the boutique oil guy's making witches brew to bring all the chicken little's down off the cliff, and gouge them for more money than oil is worth! I believe that most pre-mature cam failures are due to mis-match of components and incorrect installations. Wiped lobes on 32yo cams with 100k miles don't count!
I plan to pull my intake at some point this summer to change intake and carb setup. I will of course inspect cam and lifters but do not expect any surprises.
Yes I read the sticky and believe Vavoline more than I believe the tin hats! Look these guy's have been around a long time...and have a great reputation. They make VR-1 as a special blend and market it and state in the product guide the levels of protection it offers, which by the way is the only reason to offer VR-1 as a unique product. Why would they risk their rep and a false advertsing lawsuit over this? I don't buy it! This whole thing is more the boutique oil guy's making witches brew to bring all the chicken little's down off the cliff, and gouge them for more money than oil is worth! I believe that most pre-mature cam failures are due to mis-match of components and incorrect installations. Wiped lobes on 32yo cams with 100k miles don't count!
I plan to pull my intake at some point this summer to change intake and carb setup. I will of course inspect cam and lifters but do not expect any surprises.
My .02 for the day.
very good points, and I tend to agree, but it is a little disconcerting to see these reports of inconsistent lab testing.
Between my dad's car (hydraulic) and mine (solid) we've been using VR-1 for as long as I can remember (maybe 20 years?) with no problems. I am not easy on my engine either, I pull it to 7k more than occasionally, built in 1998 and run only with VR-1 since day one.
Between my dad's car (hydraulic) and mine (solid) we've been using VR-1 for as long as I can remember (maybe 20 years?) with no problems. I am not easy on my engine either, I pull it to 7k more than occasionally, built in 1998 and run only with VR-1 since day one.
It's good to have experience with a product.
On the other hand, I hear lots of people tell me they've smoked 15 years and their dad has smoked for 40 years, etc., and they haven't had a single cancer develop in all that time. Doesn't exactly prove that smoking won't cause a cancer in them or anyone else...
Still, I tend to believe on balance that VR1 is a reasonably good choice. Seems doubtful they would market an oil specifically for flat tappet engines that doesn't have adequate ZDDP. It is possible, though, that their quality control is inadequate. Just a possibility.
I spent the whole morning looking for flat tappet oil. In the end I just now ordered a 10 pack of 4 oz. bottles of ZDDP plus shipped to my doorstep. I get a free 11th bottle as well. Now I can use whatever oil I want and add 4oz. of ZDDP to each oil change.
I spent the whole morning looking for flat tappet oil. In the end I just now ordered a 10 pack of 4 oz. bottles of ZDDP plus shipped to my doorstep. I get a free 11th bottle as well. Now I can use whatever oil I want and add 4oz. of ZDDP to each oil change.
I don't think so, the manufacturer's uniformly recommend against this, as do the experts (Duke Williams, A.E. Haas, etc.).
One problem with this is that it has been suggested that too much ZDDP is bad and may cause other problems (more is not necessarily better). Optimal concentration is about 12 parts per million. If adding a can of ZDDP, how will you know how much to add. Also, the formulation apparently is a complicated balance of factors and the rigorous test suite required by the API or ISLAC would no longer be valid if the consumer modifies the formula with additives.
I think, personally, it is much better to find an oil with the best fit of viscosity/weight, ZDDP levels, and price and use that unmodified.
I don't think so, the manufacturer's uniformly recommend against this, as do the experts (Duke Williams, A.E. Haas, etc.).
One problem with this is that it has been suggested that too much ZDDP is bad and may cause other problems (more is not necessarily better). Optimal concentration is about 12 parts per million. If adding a can of ZDDP, how will you know how much to add. Also, the formulation apparently is a complicated balance of factors and the rigorous test suite required by the API or ISLAC would no longer be valid if the consumer modifies the formula with additives.
I think, personally, it is much better to find an oil with the best fit of viscosity/weight, ZDDP levels, and price and use that unmodified.
I'm o.k. one 4 oz. bottle contains the correct amount of zinc and phosporus. Here is a quote from the source.
ZDDPlus contains the proper amount of ZDDP to give at least 0.18% zinc and 0.13% phosphorus level when a single 4 ounce bottle is added to a 5-quart oil change. This level of zinc and phosphorus is the level designed into pre-OBDII oils. Using ZDDPlus affords you total control over the choice of oil brand and viscosity, ensuring the protection of your solid lifter motor.