E Brake Bracket & Cable Relo- ?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
E Brake Bracket & Cable Relo- ?
Hello,
I have done my home work on after market wheels and all. I realize that you might need to relo your e brake mounting bracket and cable for the rear for wider tires/wheels.
1. How do you remove the bracket and cable from the outside of the T-arm? Looks like its welded. Grinder, saw, hammer what is the best method?
2. Does the cable disconnect anywhere before it goes into the inside of the rear wheel hub assembly? Looks like there might be a cotter pin or two at the bracket. One would obviously need to re-loop the cable from the outside of the T-Arm to the top or inside of the T-Arm along with the bracket.
3. I read a post yesterday Where a member tie wrapped the cable/bracket back into place. I guess this would be a temp fix if you do not have access to a welder. Or maybe you can countersink some holes with a drill. Not sure. Just looking for some tips and pics on this.
Thanks,
I have done my home work on after market wheels and all. I realize that you might need to relo your e brake mounting bracket and cable for the rear for wider tires/wheels.
1. How do you remove the bracket and cable from the outside of the T-arm? Looks like its welded. Grinder, saw, hammer what is the best method?
2. Does the cable disconnect anywhere before it goes into the inside of the rear wheel hub assembly? Looks like there might be a cotter pin or two at the bracket. One would obviously need to re-loop the cable from the outside of the T-Arm to the top or inside of the T-Arm along with the bracket.
3. I read a post yesterday Where a member tie wrapped the cable/bracket back into place. I guess this would be a temp fix if you do not have access to a welder. Or maybe you can countersink some holes with a drill. Not sure. Just looking for some tips and pics on this.
Thanks,
Le Mans Master
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 5,086
Likes: 786
From: Lebanon Township New Jersey
I relocated, actually replaced, the brackets on my 77. I ground off the original ones and got new ones from Corvette Central, I think. The trick is to find the proper location to weld on the new bracket. Where mine is now, the cable contacts the brake hose sometimes when the wheel is on the ground. So, for now, I replaced the brake hoses with SS sleeved units. The cable does separate near the center of the car. Also, the cable needs to be shortened after the relocation. I used two cable clamps on each side and that seems to work.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
enkeivette, did you have to relo your bracket, or did you just cut it off and just used a zip tie for the cable? I think remember reading you got 19 or 20 inch rims maybe.
I will have 17 or 18's probably.
I will have 17 or 18's probably.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,412
Likes: 3
19x9.5 No cutting, no moving anything. Just zip tied the cable close to the TA to keep it from resting on the tire. Think I might have ziptied it along the top. But the bracket just sticks inside the rim.
Last edited by enkeivette; Apr 17, 2010 at 08:48 PM.
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
I see, so your rim is big enough to where the bracket just fits inside the wheel, no worries. Yeah, my 15 inch stock rims right now close. The cable as mentioned above does have a connection before it gets to the rear wheel hub so yo can reloop it, correct? I do not want to cut it if I do not have to.
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Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Actually, I do plan on lowering some more. I have 8 inch bolts and they are back all the way down. Still got the original composite spring. I would like to come down another 1 inch.
Enkeivette, do you have steel or composite spring? Do you have any pics of this spring cut mod? So by longer bolts, did it push the spring closer to the actual edge of the tire/rim?
Enkeivette, do you have steel or composite spring? Do you have any pics of this spring cut mod? So by longer bolts, did it push the spring closer to the actual edge of the tire/rim?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Update for anybody interested.
First , this is a good article, but I had a few problems with there method.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/MoreBite.pdf
1. Had my brakes redone within last year, but was unable to get the rear caliper bolt removed. To tight, plus could not get a box end or rachet on it due to the brake line in the way. I was trying to remove the caliper as suggested in the above article.
2. Did not want to remove the brake line out of fear of getting air in the lines and having to bleed the brake line. I started to round off part of the caliper bolt with the C end of the wrench, so I stopped there.
3. In the article they just remove the rear rotor like its not riveted into place once the caliper is removed. Well mine looks like its never been removed. Although the runout/end play was within specs when I had the brake job.
So 3 strikes against me from what was mentioned in the article is simple.
What I did is, loosened the E brake cable under neath the center of the car in the rear till there was some slack in the cable. Then I was able to use a flash light and a long flat tip screw driver and got jiggy with the end of the e brake cable from the back side of the rotor assembly and it popped off the brake shoe.
I removed the little clamp key and pulled the cable away from the trailing arm and re-routed it behind the T/A. I did not reattach the cable just yet. And will attempt to remove the bracket from the T/A if indeed its in the way. I have read though, that 17 or larger inch rims do not seem to have a problem with the bracket. Will have to wait and see.
thanks,
First , this is a good article, but I had a few problems with there method.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/MoreBite.pdf
1. Had my brakes redone within last year, but was unable to get the rear caliper bolt removed. To tight, plus could not get a box end or rachet on it due to the brake line in the way. I was trying to remove the caliper as suggested in the above article.
2. Did not want to remove the brake line out of fear of getting air in the lines and having to bleed the brake line. I started to round off part of the caliper bolt with the C end of the wrench, so I stopped there.
3. In the article they just remove the rear rotor like its not riveted into place once the caliper is removed. Well mine looks like its never been removed. Although the runout/end play was within specs when I had the brake job.
So 3 strikes against me from what was mentioned in the article is simple.
What I did is, loosened the E brake cable under neath the center of the car in the rear till there was some slack in the cable. Then I was able to use a flash light and a long flat tip screw driver and got jiggy with the end of the e brake cable from the back side of the rotor assembly and it popped off the brake shoe.
I removed the little clamp key and pulled the cable away from the trailing arm and re-routed it behind the T/A. I did not reattach the cable just yet. And will attempt to remove the bracket from the T/A if indeed its in the way. I have read though, that 17 or larger inch rims do not seem to have a problem with the bracket. Will have to wait and see.
thanks,
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 7,353
Likes: 72
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
Tho it has acquired the "authority" of having been published, that article threw a couple of wild pitches your way too, mis-stating (IIRC) that GM never offered anything wider than 225's on C3's. Also, 275/60R15s on 8" rims not only look like balloons IMHO, but the article failed to point out that sidewall instability becomes a growing concern when larger section widths aren't properly matched with wider wheels, and to the detriment of optimum handling. My $.02
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 5,000
Likes: 1
From: Minneapolis, Mn USA
Fact of the matter is that article is really long in the tooth these days. So disregard the tires sizing IMHO, but follow the e-brake relocate info.
I had my trailing arms fully rebuilt locally 2 winters ago, and can't believe I forgot to ask the guy to do this for me. By the time I remembered, the arms were back home in the garage.
Probably just as well as I should probably have the set-up fully together to be sure of the location.
I had my trailing arms fully rebuilt locally 2 winters ago, and can't believe I forgot to ask the guy to do this for me. By the time I remembered, the arms were back home in the garage.
Probably just as well as I should probably have the set-up fully together to be sure of the location.
