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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 10:40 AM
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Default Cabin heat

I have 2 questions:

1: Exactly what is this?

It's on my 5/8 heater hose. I want to install a shut off valve to cut down on cabin heat, does it matter which side of this device I install?

2. I just had all my ductwork replaced, but still have very little air coming into the cabin. The mechanic told me the PO probably left the seal off the heater box. Does this sound right? I really don't want to go in there for nothing.

Thanks in advance,
-Jay
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 12:20 PM
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That part in the picture is the water shut off valve. On my 74 when I turn the thumb wheel to hot, vacuum is supplied and the valve opens up to supply heat. First replacement lasted 5 years, second replacement lasted 5 minutes. Ended up at Home Depot and got a manual shut off.

Can't help with #2.
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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thanks for that. Anyone have any heater box knowlege?
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Old Apr 17, 2010 | 05:25 PM
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Very little air may be due to a stopped up ac box, 30+ yr old cars tend to have all kinds os dead leaves, dust, dirt, mice, lizards etc stuck in there. Might also be due to a weak/anemic fan motor.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 06:31 AM
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put a manual shut off valve between the factory shut off valve shown in the picture and the engine. I have one on mine and it works fine. No heat in the summer and plenty of heat in the winter.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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Hey Dan, I saw yours, that's where I first got the idea.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:21 AM
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Jay, you really need to do it. It saves on the hot feet in the summer. Mine is right down by the fender well out of sight.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Very little air may be due to a stopped up ac box, 30+ yr old cars tend to have all kinds os dead leaves, dust, dirt, mice, lizards etc stuck in there. Might also be due to a weak/anemic fan motor.
I have every piece of heater and a/c boxs/ducts all out on my work bench apart and there was all kinds of crap in everything. Enough feathers to stuff a pillow! When I was taking everything apart I noticed plenty of gaps and missing/loose caulk sealer that would cause issues year round. Putting back in a c-4 blower motor and with it all cleaned out and sealed up hoping it works good.

Last edited by 71coupe454; Apr 18, 2010 at 11:59 AM.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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Originally Posted by SIXFOOTER
Very little air may be due to a stopped up ac box, 30+ yr old cars tend to have all kinds os dead leaves, dust, dirt, mice, lizards etc stuck in there. Might also be due to a weak/anemic fan motor.
Agree, very little air flow indicates a plugged air intake.
Either in front of the blower squirrel cage OR
more likely between the cage and the A/C evaporator coil.
Mine had a bird nest sucked into it - required complete removal of the A/C evap box.

You can test this by removing the interior duct work and checking your air flow directly out of the heater core. If it's still low then you have a blockage on the other side.
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 08:53 PM
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The under dash ducts are clear and duct taped at the seams. The fan sound strong. I assume the heater box is under the dash against the firewall, is that where I need to check?
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Old Apr 18, 2010 | 10:20 PM
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Originally Posted by psycho dad
The under dash ducts are clear and duct taped at the seams. The fan sound strong. I assume the heater box is under the dash against the firewall, is that where I need to check?
Heater & Air distribution box is under the dash attached to the firewall.
Evap box is on other side of the firewall in the engine compartment.
You'll need access to both as they share a common bolt.
Removing the evap box is not as difficult as it looks but is
considerably more difficult than the heater box.
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Hammerhead Fred
Heater & Air distribution box is under the dash attached to the firewall.
Evap box is on other side of the firewall in the engine compartment.
You'll need access to both as they share a common bolt.
Removing the evap box is not as difficult as it looks but is
considerably more difficult than the heater box.
True, I would go ahead and pull it and seriously concider the C4 upgrade as part of the deal. I think Ecklers wanted $50 for the gasket set for the evap box, I used $3 worth of rubber weather seal from Home Depot.
While you have it off...
Look into a product called "Home Made Lizard Skin" Its an aircraft insulating paint, stops a Lot of heat transfer. Paint it on the inside and outside of the box as well as as much of the firewall as you can get to.
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Old Apr 20, 2010 | 10:50 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho dad
Exactly what is this?


It's on my 5/8 heater hose. I want to install a shut off valve to cut down on cabin heat, does it matter which side of this device I install?
It's a heater shut off valve. When I replaced in my '78, I tested it and found that it closes with vacuum, and opens with no vacuum. To keep the cockpit from heating in summer, it's worthless since when you stop anywhere for a brief time, the vacuum goes away and lets the valve open - and then the hot coolant in the engine circulates slowly due to convection and heats the heater core making the cockpit hotter than it would have been with a manual shut off valve.

My solution was to add another (manual) shutoff valve in the other line to close for the summer and re-open when colder temperatures return.

Where you install a blocker valve in the heater lines does not matter because a block in that circuit will stop flow wherever it's located.
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Old May 29, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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i just used this as a guide and wow what a difference!
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Old May 29, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Check out this thread on cabin heat:

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...kpit-heat.html
Hope it helps.

GAV
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Old May 29, 2010 | 10:36 PM
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This has got my interest. So the heater shut off valve is a stock set up, not a bubba set up?
Second when you come to a stop the vacuum stops and the valve opens letting heat/water thru in case you want to turn on the heater. But some are removing this and just putting in a manual off/on plumbing valve from Home Depot??
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Old May 29, 2010 | 11:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebelrob
. But some are removing this and just putting in a manual off/on plumbing valve from Home Depot??
Yepper. Mine was $8.00 at HD. Make sure your shut off tap is OK for HOT conditions. Ive got a 1/4 turn ball valve (no plastic) with a spot to purge air if need be, and brass fittings with serrated (sp?) nipples on the ends. Cut the water pump OUTLET hose somewhere close to the "top", insert the shut-off, I let the air out, and WHOLA,,,,done..

$8 bucks and 20 minutes. Took me longer than 20min to build the tap setup.

dodosmike
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Old May 30, 2010 | 12:45 AM
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Have you reached down through the cowl and felt around the fan cage to see if its plugged up ?
In the pic below is an alternative to the shutoff valves , easy on , easy off , great for show cars.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 09:08 AM
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That's a nice looking motor Roger. I can't quite see what you have there, it looks like some sort of clamp.
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Old May 31, 2010 | 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by psycho dad
That's a nice looking motor Roger. I can't quite see what you have there, it looks like some sort of clamp.
Yes its a very simple very cheap pinch clamp from Harbour Frieght. I've been noticing more and more of them showing up on restored cars , the people are wanting to preserve the correct underhood plumbing and also benefit from stopping the hot coolant flow through the heater core. I see in this link the price has gone up to $12.99 from $8.99 last year,their popularity must be growing so the price goes up.
The large set are being used in the above pic,the owner is using the med. size on his 57 Nomad.
http://www.harborfreight.com/3-piece...set-97578.html
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