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Just pulled off the wheel hub to replace the wheel bearings. Looks like the inner race was not set properly (previously) and is cocked. I'm having no luck getting the thing to budge using a large screw driver and hammer.
Anyone know of a tool that is designed for removal of the race?
Get a brass drift/punch 1/2" diameter or so, and knock it out from the back. Go side to side a little at a time. The brass is softer then your steel rotor, so it will not mar it. Good luck.
It's been a long time but I seem to remember there is material removed from the factory to get a better hit. They look like 2 half moons 180 degrees apart. And use the brass drift like Beatervette said.
Just pulled off the wheel hub to replace the wheel bearings. Looks like the inner race was not set properly (previously) and is cocked. I'm having no luck getting the thing to budge using a large screw driver and hammer.
Anyone know of a tool that is designed for removal of the race?
Thanks.
Don
I hope you haven't tried any of the options presented. You do not want to use a hammer and screw driver or any kind of procedure which tries to push only one side out...you need to knock it out solid with something that will push on all sides at the same time. I've used large sockets, large washers and smaller sockets, old races, even used a new race before and didn't damage it. But, let me say that the reason the new race is cocked in there is most likely because someone tried to wedge the old one out one side at a time and distorted the hub.
You most likely need a new hub.
Last edited by Rockn-Roll; Apr 17, 2010 at 05:34 PM.
As Rockn-Roll feared, I was able to remove the race using screw driver and hammer but gouged the hub in various places. Will take it by a machine shop and see if they can smooth it out.
The hub I have only has two small recessed ares, 180 degrees apart, where the race is exposed from the opposite side.
I tried a round copper punch but it couldn't maintain sufficient contact to work.
Since the race is only exposed on the back side through these two recessed areas, I don't see how one could use anything (socket, washer, what have you) to obtain contact with the entire race edge. I would have thought there would be a tool like what Tom1701 mentioned: it should contact the race edge at the two recess points and allow you to pull the race out (rather like pulling the cork out of a bottle of wine).
At any rate, thanks to all for the input. Remember: experience is what you get when you don't get what you want.
Put this on your tool list if you insist in doing this yourself, a tapered 'brass drift would help without marking the hub or rotor surface....if you then have the rotor trued up in a lathe {drum-rotor} they can make sure the races are down correctly
There is a possibility the reason the race was cocked is that at one time the race had spun and made the hole in the hub too large and when the new race was driven in it cocked. If when you install the new race it doesn't fit tight you will need a new hub.
As Rockn-Roll feared, I was able to remove the race using screw driver and hammer but gouged the hub in various places. Will take it by a machine shop and see if they can smooth it out.
I've got a whole bunch of bearing carriers if they can't smooth it out. Let me know if you end up needing one.