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I'm trying to put my new engine back together and of course I'm stuck on the first thing. How do I know how far to seat my harmonic balancer? The timing tab is about half way across the streetdamper and it won't budge anymore. I was going to put the pulleys on to see if they line up but I thought there might be an easier way to check. Any advice is appreciated.
Copied verbatim from a leaflet in the box of a new OEM style damper for a 1980
Corvette... recently installed...
begin quote
IMPORTANT NOTICE ON DAMPER INSTALLATION
USE A PROPER PULLER & INSTALLER
The correct way to install a damper is to coat the crank snout and the
ID of the hub on the damper with anti-seize compound and press the damper
into place with a proper installation tool. DO NOT hammer on the damper
to install it, as damage will occur.
Many people are under the false impression that the crankshaft key is
supposed to keep a vibration damper in place on the crankshaft snout. This
is definitely NOT the case. The key is intended strictly to position the
damper correctly during installation, it is the press fit between the damper
Inside Diameter (ID) and crankshaft Outside Diameter (OD) and a grade 8
bolt properly torqued to factory specifications, that prevents the damper
from spinning on the crank. Consequently, the ID of a damper should
NEVER be honed to provide a slip fit. If a press fit is not maintained, a
damper's effectiveness is minimized because it does not maintain firm
contact with the crankshaft.
Pullers and installers are made expressly for Harmonic Balancer
installation & removal.
end quote
The balancer should be installed all the way onto the crank until it bottoms on the crank.
The tool will "bind" up or get "solid" when this happens... and you can stop tightening then
before you snap off the tool pilot in the crank.
I was looking for a tool at Advance Auto yesterday, and noticed they had the tool for less than $30. The design is not the absolute best, but it should work just fine.
I was looking for a tool at Advance Auto yesterday, and noticed they had the tool for less than $30. The design is not the absolute best, but it should work just fine.
There is always the "Home Made" route. Using Tom's statement "The design is not the absolute best", however does work quite well.
Barry
I zipem on with and impact wrench but unless you do it all the time its better to use the right tool. I like that pic of the welded bolt have to show that one to the guys at work :cool: I remember cranks with just the interference fit and no bolt and washer glad they stopped doin that. :chevy :seeya