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Well I have my front suspension completely out, I need to drill out the rivets next. Any thoughts / tips??
The other thing, HUBS, I thought about just replacing them instead of drilling rivets. Seems like VBP is the only ones out there with new ones (aluminum). Anyone use them? I thought vansteel was making some but havent seen anything on them.
Drilling out the rivets is not a big deal. Use a centre punch to mark; and drill a small pilot hole and progressively go up in drill hole size. A solid hit with a punch will remove the remainder.
Can't offer info on the hubs, someone else will chime in!
IMHO replacing the hubs versus drilling the rivets is an unnecessary expense. I just went through this and I can tell you it is easier than you think. A drill press is the best method, ensuring you drill straight. Since I didn't have one and didn't want to buy one because I wouldn't get much further use out of it, I used a regular drill. All the things I read showed using a 5/16" bit, but since I wasn't completely confident in my drilling skills, I used a 1/4" bit to give a slight bit of wiggle room. I center punched the rivet, drilled completely through (stopping about three times to add oil to the hole). While the rivet was still warm, I used a cold chisel to split the head on both sides of the hole across from each other. Use the chisel to get under the split head of the rivet and both halves should pop right off. Use a good punch or small screwdriver to tap the remaining "shell" of the rivet out of the hole.
I was done in 30 minutes with both hubs. Then you can remove the bearings/races, clean up the hubs, install new USA Timiken bearings and races. Tap the rivet holes 3/8"-24 and attach the new rotor with allen head cap screws and set your runout to less than .002.
Here are a couple of pics:
rivet
cap screw
Rotor attachment method is courtesy of a former forum member.
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Originally Posted by crvtownr
IMHO replacing the hubs versus drilling the rivets is an unnecessary expense. I just went through this and I can tell you it is easier than you think. A drill press is the best method, ensuring you drill straight. Since I didn't have one and didn't want to buy one because I wouldn't get much further use out of it, I used a regular drill. All the things I read showed using a 5/16" bit, but since I wasn't completely confident in my drilling skills, I used a 1/4" bit to give a slight bit of wiggle room. I center punched the rivet, drilled completely through (stopping about three times to add oil to the hole). While the rivet was still warm, I used a cold chisel to split the head on both sides of the hole across from each other. Use the chisel to get under the split head of the rivet and both halves should pop right off. Use a good punch or small screwdriver to tap the remaining "shell" of the rivet out of the hole.
I was done in 30 minutes with both hubs. Then you can remove the bearings/races, clean up the hubs, install new USA Timiken bearings and races. Tap the rivet holes 3/8"-24 and attach the new rotor with allen head cap screws and set your runout to less than .002.
Here are a couple of pics:
rivet
cap screw
Rotor attachment method is courtesy of a former forum member.
Great instructions and pic's, should be made a "Sticky"