P-Brake Diagnosis
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 545
Likes: 0
From: Waukesha WI
P-Brake Diagnosis
Can someone tell me where to begin as to figure out what is wrong with my p-break. Here is what it does. you pull the handle, there is tension, you are able to pull it to what would seem to be a normal full pull, break does not work. I do not think it is the cable, as it used to grab a little bit, but over the past year has stopped grabbing at all. Where do i start?? :smash:
(Now im more scared as I see Mid America has a whole page dedicated to this as well as a "tool".)
[Modified by dollagreen, 6:11 PM 3/15/2002]
(Now im more scared as I see Mid America has a whole page dedicated to this as well as a "tool".)
[Modified by dollagreen, 6:11 PM 3/15/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Re: P-Brake Diagnosis (dollagreen)
If you have never been into your parking brake system, there is a strong possibility that the pivot piece is frozen with rust. You can pull on the handle until the cows come home, but you won't be putting any pressure on the pads to hold the brakes. I would suggest getting a stainless steel parking brake kit from a reputable vendor and changing out your hardware. My 66 was just like that. The pivoting piece had rusted together so that no amount of pulling would separate them.
You will find that the stainless steel hardware, plus new parking brake shoes will dramatically improve your PB's. HOWEVER, they are still fairly pathetic devices and more useful as parking brakes than emergency brakes.
The other thing I would suggest is that you get a GM Service Manual for your car and follow the parking brake adjusting procedure. It involves the adjustment at the wheel itself as well as the cable.
Gary
You will find that the stainless steel hardware, plus new parking brake shoes will dramatically improve your PB's. HOWEVER, they are still fairly pathetic devices and more useful as parking brakes than emergency brakes.
The other thing I would suggest is that you get a GM Service Manual for your car and follow the parking brake adjusting procedure. It involves the adjustment at the wheel itself as well as the cable.
Gary
Drifting
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,468
Likes: 1
From: Kirkland WA
Re: P-Brake Diagnosis (One GM A Tech)
Very good advice.
First, you may want to inspect your current system. The parking brake is a big "Y" - a single steel cable in the middle that branches out to both rear wheels.
Usually, the cable gets frozen in the housing near the back trailing arms. Get some PB Blaster and soak the area, then grab the steel line with a pair of vice grips and see if the line moves in-and-out of the housing. If it doesn't -- your lines are frozen and the easiest thing to is replace. Sometimes they are partially frozen and you can get them working again with minimal effort (this was the problem with my car)
Also, there is an adjustment bolt where the two lines meet behind the crossmember. If the lines are frozen you may have stretched the cable, so you'll need to adjust the tension so you can get full range when you pull up on the PB handle.
This will all make more sence when you look under the car and see how it works. It's possible you can bring your system back to life.
Good luck!
First, you may want to inspect your current system. The parking brake is a big "Y" - a single steel cable in the middle that branches out to both rear wheels.
Usually, the cable gets frozen in the housing near the back trailing arms. Get some PB Blaster and soak the area, then grab the steel line with a pair of vice grips and see if the line moves in-and-out of the housing. If it doesn't -- your lines are frozen and the easiest thing to is replace. Sometimes they are partially frozen and you can get them working again with minimal effort (this was the problem with my car)
Also, there is an adjustment bolt where the two lines meet behind the crossmember. If the lines are frozen you may have stretched the cable, so you'll need to adjust the tension so you can get full range when you pull up on the PB handle.
This will all make more sence when you look under the car and see how it works. It's possible you can bring your system back to life.
Good luck!
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 21,457
Likes: 463
From: Massillon,Ohio USA
2020 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
Cruise-In VI Veteran
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12
Re: P-Brake Diagnosis (dollagreen)
The pivot point as Gary mentioned is probably the problem. It's like two levers that spread the shoes. The pin joining the two levers siezes up from corrosion. Another thing that happens too is the original type shoes(not the stainless ones)will have a tendency to "rust" to the backing plates. If your shoes are good, you can clean the small "pads" that they slide on. Same with the backing plate. It has raised "pads" too that the pads from the shoes rest and slide upon. Clean these areas up with like a wire wheel, then put a small amount of neversieze on these pads. If your original shoes are age cracked or very rusty, best to just replace them. Get the stainless hardware too. Once it's done right this way, you should never have to mess with it again except for maybe just adjustments. :yesnod:
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 545
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From: Waukesha WI
Re: P-Brake Diagnosis (paul79)
Thanks for the suggestions guys...I took a look today but I have the car backed into a corner in the garage so I couldnt get at it all the way to get the whole picture. Does any body have a picture of the Y part of the cable, and the part back near the wheel that is usually the frozen part. It is still cold in WI so unfortunately she is still in her winter parking spot. :cry
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