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I've decided I'm not happy with the lopsided right height on my 78 and I'm gonna swap out the stock front coils in the next few weeks. The drivers side is about 1.5" higher than the passenger side. Both springs are correctly seated and I've had to readjust the rear to get the front even close to even.
I've got two different spring compressors. Both are great, but not on a Vette. When I took them apart the last time I just put a chain around and popped the ball joints and had a jack under the control arm and lowered it down and out. I want to make my life a little easier this time, and safer.
I was thinking I'd get the front way up in the air, pull the wheels and rotors/calipers, pop out the shock and put the coil spring compressor on, and then take a pickle fork and pop the upper ball joint loose and drop the lower control arm.
This sound like the right sequence? I'd like to do it as neat as possible because two years ago I blasted and painted everything.
Re: What's the best coil spring compressor? (78Vette-SA)
Joe check the archives on the factory stck board, Chuck Gongloff made up a spring compressor out of threaded rod that seems to control the force of the spring when compressing/releasing tension. I jacked the lower control arm removed the shock, broke the ball joint nuts loose, used a tie rod separator to pop the spindle loose and the lower arm fell 1" onto the jack and I slowly released it. I had the jack under the car and I was at the opposite wheel so if the spring came out it would be away from me. I should have chained the spring for safety but didn't have a problem did both sides in less then an hour.
Gary
Re: What's the best coil spring compressor? (78Vette-SA)
I take no credit for the "gizmo". I first saw one of these 20 or so years ago. It's the best device in my opinion, as the internal compressors are a PIA. First, they're hard to fit through the lower control arm, and second, once your compress them, the "legs" interfere. Chuck
Re: What's the best coil spring compressor? (78Vette-SA)
I use a 3/4" diameter 2' long piece of threaded rod with nuts and a series of progressively larger washers on the ends. Have it all from Home Depot for $10 or so. Remove the the shock and feed the rod through the controll arm and upper shocck mount. Add the nuts and washers and tighten them snug. The rod will hold it all in place while you disconnect the controll arm bolts and ball joint. Then just turn the nut on the bottom of threaded rod to release the spring and lower controll arm. It works as good as any tool on C3's anyway.
Re: What's the best coil spring compressor? (78Vette-SA)
They all scare the heck out of me. I once used an internal, hook-type and had a hell of a time getting it to stay on the spring. Did NOT make me feel comfy. next time I chained the spring in place, jacked up the lower contol arm, removed the lower control arm bolts and lowered the jack from the other side of the car. Simple and completely uneventful.
Re: What's the best coil spring compressor? (ddecart)
I just ordered an internal compressor. We removed the rt side spring couple weeks ago and it worked but was uncomfortable. With the body / engine off the frame you can't compress (jack) the lwr arm without lifting the frame. We ended running the threaded rod through the shock hole and getting one of the hooks to grip the shock. We chained it and when it was compressed enough we were able to move the upper arm enough to get the nut off. Damn thing kinda jumped a little while lowering the arm, though. Lessons learned? Now reading all posts about how to do this and if the internal doesn't work, I'm making one of these, don't want to take a chance.
The original coils need to have a compresser to remove the springs because the yare to long. The 460 and 550 coils I have had mine in and out many times recently and there is no need for a compresser. I don't even take the rotors or brakes off. Just seperate the the lower ball joint and swing the whole assembly away. Lower the lower control arm down and the spring will fall out. Install is just a reverse. I can have the springs in and out both sides in under an hour now by myself.
I like the chain and hydraulic jack method personaly. I do not even use a pickle fork in some cases. Kind of barbaric but I usualy just use a BFH to tap the side of the spindle with the nut backed off a few turns and she usualy pops out from the spring force. Maybe use another stationary hammer on the other side to back it up. If I plan on getting an alignment after the job anyway, this is the method of choice in my garage.
The off-the-shelf spring compressors are not that great. The threaded rod with a heavy hex nut pinned to the top end, a stack of greased washers under that and a square flat plate with a nut welded on the bottom works better than anything else I have seen. Put an air gun on the top nut and you will be out of there in just minutes.
With the body / engine off the frame you can't compress (jack) the lwr arm without lifting the frame.
I had this same problem. My solution was putting a jack stand under the opposite rear corner of the frame. Worked like a charm.
I've also had the displeasure of using an internal spring compressor - wouldn't fit through the lower arms, got stuck in the spring....
Now I just use the jack method. I find that the spring in the 63-82 vettes is pretty secure in its pocket and doesn't fly out if you lower the jack slowly. My lower arms will swing all the way down so removing them was easy. Putting them back in is a little more challenging but using a handy crowbar (with padding to avoid destroying the powdercoating) I find I can jocky it into place pretty easily.
When I built my chassis, I ended up putting the springs in and out a few times so I got the procedure down (don't ask why...)