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Ok, you electron guru's, I'm beggin'. I've got a Unilite with a Hyfire 6AL box. Was working great, then started shutting off after idle for 2-3 minutes. Now it won't fire at all. I've replaced the Hyfire, and hooked it up the same as the previous one...no fire. I tried bypassing the hyfire and still no spark. I've used different coils, no change. I'm stumped.
I've got 12.5 volts going to the pos of the coil and the red wire of the distributor. Likewise, I've got 12.5 volts on the green wire out of the distributor that goes to the neg terminal of the coil. However, there's no voltage accross the coil from terminal to terminal (+ to -) in either configuration with the Hyfire and without. On a different motor with a Pertronix, I get 9 volts accross the coil with the same test.
The cap and rotor both look fine. Before I replace the distributor, shouldn't there be voltage accross the coil witht he ignition on? Any ideas or further tests to determine my problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
From past experience it sounds like the unilite module in the distributor has gone south. Go to the Mallory website and I believe there is a procedure sheet on checking the module.
Better yet put a Pertronix conversion into your Mallory distributor. I dealt with Unilites back in the 70's when I was working my way thorugh college in an auto parts store, lots of Unilite failures back then including one in my Boss 302. Had a 3 mile walk because of it, won't ever use one again!
From past experience it sounds like the unilite module in the distributor has gone south. Go to the Mallory website and I believe there is a procedure sheet on checking the module.
Originally Posted by Solid LT1
Better yet put a Pertronix conversion into your Mallory distributor. I dealt with Unilites back in the 70's when I was working my way thorugh college in an auto parts store, lots of Unilite failures back then including one in my Boss 302. Had a 3 mile walk because of it, won't ever use one again!
I've got a Mallory Unilite module in my Delco distributor since 1990 and it's still working perfectly...
BUT, I only use it to trigger my MSD-6AL ignition box, so only a very small current goes through the module.
Put a Unilite in my Camaro in 1975, and it is still going strong. I would say in your case though, the module probably went south. I think I still have the box it came in.
A voltage spike can fry the module in a Unilite. Mallory sells an inline spike filter to prevent that. To me, if the problem is prevalent enough to make a filter to prevent it, Mallory should design the filter into the distributor or supply it as standard rather than make it an extra cost option. That's simply good customer service...it's easier than trying to regain customer loyalty once its lost.
I have never had any luck with anything from Mallory especally the Unilite Distributors. I have 2 hanging on the wall that I never got working. I know others will jump all over me for stating this but that is my history with the company and there products. My suggestion and this is only a suggestion is switch to MSD.
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It's the module. I have Mallory Unilites in both my 61 and 65 and have had module failures in both. I'm sticking with points in my 68. There is a filter that Mallory sells to soften the electrical pulses to the module. That may help prevent future module meltdowns.
Anyone needing a cheap Unilte module, I have a few spares from a Vette I bought a few years back. $30 each, Email me at zeohsix@gmail.com. I'll test them on my friend's Sun machine before shipping but no guarantees!
Thanks for the words guys. I'll be getting a new module directly. The Unilite and Hyfire have been doing the job for 8 years on the race car, and my lousey wiring probably caused the failure (did have a lose wire on the switch panel). I love the built in rev limiter, and the fact that when working, it fires after 1/2 second of starter rotation. The only problem is that the diagnosis matrix has you checking the voltage accross the coil while interupting the opti sensor. Mine has no voltage accross the coil, but does to the green wire which attaches to the neg of the coil. That's what threw me.
Anyone needing a cheap Unilte module, I have a few spares from a Vette I bought a few years back. $30 each, Email me at zeohsix@gmail.com. I'll test them on my friend's Sun machine before shipping but no guarantees!
I wouldn't wish one of these on a Mustang owner
Have a Unilite in my Mustang for the past 16 years with no problems. Sure does sound like the module went bad.
I have a Mallory magnetic distributor with no problems but listen to this:
My buddy buys one. He removes the cap to look inside. He goes to put the cap back on.
He ***** the cap to one side as he trys to snap it in place.
The little carbon button snaps off.
This button is designed to move in and out, but not flex.
If he had installed it, everything would look right but the button would have never touched the rotor.
Just sayin.............
I have a Mallory magnetic distributor with no problems but listen to this:
My buddy buys one. He removes the cap to look inside. He goes to put the cap back on.
He ***** the cap to one side as he trys to snap it in place.
The little carbon button snaps off.
This button is designed to move in and out, but not flex.
If he had installed it, everything would look right but the button would have never touched the rotor.
Just sayin.............
I have done the same thing, and the engine gives the illusion of wanting to start from time to time with that carbon button broken off.
Used to sell parts. We sold unilite modules to the unlucky, usually when their pride and joy died on what was supposed to be a great weekend. Funny thing is that those six or eight customers have scarred me for life, my "BABY" is getting a MSD and a "6" box. I didn't even consider a Mallory for MY pride and joy.