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I made shims out of aluminum can and they seemed to work well for me.
only I went a little more hi-tech than Eddie, I actually bought shim stock.. McMaster-Carr has sheets in different thickness...although you do end up with a lot more thea you need...so Eddies method is certainly cheaper...
I believe the only real way to get them true by grinding is to attach them together and turn them as a unit like they did in the factory.
If there new, you can get them turned on the car at a GM dealership, with one of the NEW bolt to hub machines. that will also correct it. spray mark one stud/hole if you go this route for future indexing reference.
From: Graceland in a Not Correctly Restored Stingray
With a nod to the case often made against using them, I've had no issue with the shims I got from Guldstrand, and I don't exactly tend to just trundle around...
If there new, you can get them turned on the car at a GM dealership, with one of the NEW bolt to hub machines. that will also correct it. spray mark one stud/hole if you go this route for future indexing reference.
GM will only turn them on the car if new?
Do all the dealerships shave this ability now?
Do they have to remove the caliper to do this?
Brake Align makes tapered shims to correct various amounts of runout. http://www.brakealign.com/pages/products.htm According to their tech support, they are available at GM dealerships.
on car brake lathe is great for this, just have to make sure you have new bits or it mostly chews the rotors. it is a gm essential item so every gm should have it
I ordered a bunch of shim stock and a punch set from mcmaster today, I gotta get this thing back together. and sorry but im not turning my brand new rotors (slotted and dimpled at that)
I really dont think shims are " that bad " of an idea ( just my opinion )
I ordered a bunch of shim stock and a punch set from mcmaster today, I gotta get this thing back together. and sorry but im not turning my brand new rotors (slotted and dimpled at that)
I really dont think shims are " that bad " of an idea ( just my opinion )
LOL
Best decision you could have made! I feel the same way about turning brand new rotors...plus you learn something doing it this way!
If there new, you can get them turned on the car at a GM dealership, with one of the NEW bolt to hub machines. that will also correct it. spray mark one stud/hole if you go this route for future indexing reference.
Are these "on the car" lathes the ones made for front wheel drive vehicles ? There is a big difference between how the bearing on the front wheel drive car supports the spindle verses the Corvette rear spindle. If this lathe just bolts on and and doesn't in any way "preload" the Corvette spindle I doubt it can hold runout below .005.
Do they turn the rotor with the half shaft attached or removed ?
better than taking rotor off grinding both hub surfaces and then resurfacing rotor
I don't know about that,anything above .005 can cause problems with sucking air. I've seen cars with rotors with .007 - .010 runout that are perfectly fine around town and up to 60mph, but you run that car up above 90 and the next time you touch the brakes the pedal goes to the floor. (thats usually as your going down the exit ramp trying to stop behind the line of cars at the light) Seriously , and until you have had that happen runout don't mean ****. Spoooooky
I wonder if runout over .005"-and over is a crap shoot. I replaced/intsalled new rear rotors in 2007 and I did not measure runout and I have a firm pedal to this day.
I wonder if runout over .005"-and over is a crap shoot. I replaced/intsalled new rear rotors in 2007 and I did not measure runout and I have a firm pedal to this day.
Those calipers are not near as sensitive as the C2-C3 calipers to rotor runout.
Shim stock came in from mcmaster, SS, worked fine. I got them to about 2.5 thou. Close enough?? I have SS sleeve calipers if that matters. (new ones too)