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Thanks alot Roger & Richard....I'll start tracing the problem of no power at the choke now !
Let me throw you this as well, as I had this issue and I screwed with it forever. Power goes through the Speedo/tach printed circuit where the choke light is. When I replaced my printed circuit due to the flasher indicators failing, guess what else started working? Lo and behold, power to the choke. Just something to keep in mind when you start grasping at straws....
This car isn't mine. A friend just got it & it has a late model 350 in it so alot of things aren't as they should be. ( wrong alt, elec fuel pump, Holley carb, etc, etc) So my main thing first is to get the choke working. Thanks for the input guys !
Thanks alot Roger & Richard....I'll start tracing the problem of no power at the choke now !
I'll have to admit I don't actually understand this choke wiring so I just work with it and try not to guess why GM did it this way.
Make sure of the obvious that the Choke heater fuse is good and the Gauge fuse is good but also remember this is wired in somehow with the Alt. light (or batt light). If the alt exciter circuit that uses the alt light in the dash cluster is screwy then the choke will be effected. If the alt is not putting out the choke is effected. Good Luck its not all that bad but it can be a PITA.
Thanks SIX but I think your being too kind. SIX the GM trouble shooting man doesn't show the brown going to the heater relay T-ing in with the brown from the alt that I can find,this alone makes it confusing BUT that aside WHY did they do this this way ? Is it because with the key in the on position and the alt not putting out the choke heater is not getting hot ?
I think so Roger, with engine off and key on, the heater would get power and that might not be good for a couplke reasone: Safty maybe, and with the engine cold and needing choke if the key is on for a few minutes, then hit the key, the choke would open up, making it hard to start