headlight vacuum problem?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 128
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headlight vacuum problem?
Hey guys,
My right headlamp is slower when opening and closing than the left one. I've read up on the schematics of how they work but I'm unsure as to what the problem could be. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Jonathon
My right headlamp is slower when opening and closing than the left one. I've read up on the schematics of how they work but I'm unsure as to what the problem could be. Any ideas?
Thanks!
Jonathon
Race Director
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 12,596
Likes: 3,082
From: Shamong, NJ
Most likely a bad seal in the right side vacuum actuator. Pull the dust boot back and take a look at the rubber seal (it looks like a witches hat) on the rod. If it's cracked, it's probably leaking vacuum. The seals are about $10, alot cheaper than a new actuator. That's the most likely cause, but it could also be a bad headlight relay valve.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Leominster MA
I just did my headlights over, replay both actuators, valves and all the lines. And a few of the springs and bushings. They work awesome now. I had a lazy right side going on. Cured that too. I know its alot of money but i don't regret doing it. Easy job too.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 3,558
Likes: 4
From: Oakland California
Most likely a bad seal in the right side vacuum actuator. Pull the dust boot back and take a look at the rubber seal (it looks like a witches hat) on the rod. If it's cracked, it's probably leaking vacuum. The seals are about $10, alot cheaper than a new actuator. That's the most likely cause, but it could also be a bad headlight relay valve.
It's an easy thing to do.
Cruising
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Same issue with the "lazy eye" a few years back, after putting up with it for months, $20 bucks and 10 minutes, saved me a lot of grief. (And it is very simple to check.)
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 146
Likes: 1
From: Roanoke Rapids NC
I bought one of Zips vacuum refurbishing kits that replaced all the lines, plastic fittings (which get really brittle and break) and the "witches hat" seals on the actuator and it helped and was an easy job. But my problem didn't completely go away til I bought new vacuum relays which are mounted under the front clip in the center just in front of the hood. You can see them when the hood is tilted up and from the bottom of the car. That's where I'd put money on leakage. I think Wilcox has them cheapest but they range from $40-50 a piece.
Brad
BTW its AWESOME to have quick headlights after having slow ones for so long, its a cheap and easy fix, do it!
Brad
BTW its AWESOME to have quick headlights after having slow ones for so long, its a cheap and easy fix, do it!
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 128
Likes: 0
Most likely a bad seal in the right side vacuum actuator. Pull the dust boot back and take a look at the rubber seal (it looks like a witches hat) on the rod. If it's cracked, it's probably leaking vacuum. The seals are about $10, alot cheaper than a new actuator. That's the most likely cause, but it could also be a bad headlight relay valve.
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 494
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From: Leominster MA
corvette magazine does a good write up on it, HOWEVER!! do not try to remove it through the front grill !! you'll be there for days!! take the four bolts off (once you take the springs off etc etc) gentle move it towards the center of the car and rest it at the lowest point you can find. Then slowly open the hood as not to scratch it. I did it this way and they came right out from the top without any scratches, no problems. They make chrome covers for them too. 
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 128
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Ssenay72,
Those are great pics. Do the lights need to be in the "closed" position and do you get to the actuator from under the car? Or should I take the headlight encasing off when the lights are in open position to try and get them off? Sorry to keep pestering you. I messed around with it for a little bit today but really haven't had alot of time to figure it out on my own.
Thanks
Those are great pics. Do the lights need to be in the "closed" position and do you get to the actuator from under the car? Or should I take the headlight encasing off when the lights are in open position to try and get them off? Sorry to keep pestering you. I messed around with it for a little bit today but really haven't had alot of time to figure it out on my own.
Thanks
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 494
Likes: 0
From: Leominster MA
I believe the article says " partially open. I think i left them open, cant remember, whichever way had less tension on the springs for removal.
do yourself a favor, if your going to go through taking the actuator or both out, change those rusty springs, bushings, clevis pin and whatever else. It will go back together alot easier. I got it all from zips.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...both-open.html
do yourself a favor, if your going to go through taking the actuator or both out, change those rusty springs, bushings, clevis pin and whatever else. It will go back together alot easier. I got it all from zips.
http://www.corvettemagazine.com/tech...both-open.html
Racer
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 406
Likes: 1
From: Maroochydore QLD
here's a quick tip, I have posted this before but here goes again.
Squirt a little CRC in the bottom of the offending sides relay, simply remove the filter (which has probably been long gone anyway) and squirt a little CRC right in there, if the headlight(s) suddenly work better and quicker then replace your relay(s), the seal around the vacuum plunger has dried and shrunk and the oil temporarily gives it a better seal. Works a treat but is not a permanant fix, just a test.
Cheers, Dennis.
Squirt a little CRC in the bottom of the offending sides relay, simply remove the filter (which has probably been long gone anyway) and squirt a little CRC right in there, if the headlight(s) suddenly work better and quicker then replace your relay(s), the seal around the vacuum plunger has dried and shrunk and the oil temporarily gives it a better seal. Works a treat but is not a permanant fix, just a test.
Cheers, Dennis.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 128
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Ok, I took a look at the right seal and the actuator is in good working condition. Tomorrow I'm gonna try to diagnose the condition of my relays. I have an idea that that is where my problem is going to be. I'm going to order the spring and hose kit tomorrow along with the actuators (if needed). The hoses seem to be in ok condition, but I figure I might as well do this thing right.
Thanks for all your input. I'll let you know as soon as I get the stuff put back in and get some pics up. Thanks again! Once again this forum is great for Corvette owners!
Thanks for all your input. I'll let you know as soon as I get the stuff put back in and get some pics up. Thanks again! Once again this forum is great for Corvette owners!
