Best method to secure Trans w/Engine removed?
Thread Starter
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,532
Likes: 14
From: Dallas-Fort Worth TX
Best method to secure Trans w/Engine removed?
Looking for some advice, tips on what I can use to secure the Transmission with the engine removed? I do not mean a jack underneath it. That is when you actually remove the engine.
What I am looking to do, is with the engine removed and trans still installed, is to be able to roll the car forward and backwards about 1-2 car lenghts. I have heard using some type of temp cross mount to keep the nose of the trans up right or some how wiring it to the firewall.
I am trying to save space and think outside the box, and just wondering if anybody has done this and what they used.
I have very limited space and a trans laying around will not help.
I would rather keep the trans in the car, but if I have to I will remove it.
Thanks,
What I am looking to do, is with the engine removed and trans still installed, is to be able to roll the car forward and backwards about 1-2 car lenghts. I have heard using some type of temp cross mount to keep the nose of the trans up right or some how wiring it to the firewall.
I am trying to save space and think outside the box, and just wondering if anybody has done this and what they used.
I have very limited space and a trans laying around will not help. I would rather keep the trans in the car, but if I have to I will remove it.
Thanks,
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 825
Likes: 0
From: Hanging out back with the dark horses. Wa.
Looking for some advice, tips on what I can use to secure the Transmission with the engine removed? I do not mean a jack underneath it. That is when you actually remove the engine.
What I am looking to do, is with the engine removed and trans still installed, is to be able to roll the car forward and backwards about 1-2 car lenghts. I have heard using some type of temp cross mount to keep the nose of the trans up right or some how wiring it to the firewall.
I am trying to save space and think outside the box, and just wondering if anybody has done this and what they used. I have very limited space and a trans laying around will not help.
I would rather keep the trans in the car, but if I have to I will remove it.
Thanks,
What I am looking to do, is with the engine removed and trans still installed, is to be able to roll the car forward and backwards about 1-2 car lenghts. I have heard using some type of temp cross mount to keep the nose of the trans up right or some how wiring it to the firewall.
I am trying to save space and think outside the box, and just wondering if anybody has done this and what they used.
I have very limited space and a trans laying around will not help. I would rather keep the trans in the car, but if I have to I will remove it.
Thanks,
milk crates and chunks of 2x4 just dont cut it
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 7,123
Likes: 433
From: Gladstone MO
C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Try this: Cut a 2x4 so it'll lay against the firewall on top of the frame, stick a couple of long bolts into the trans and let it rest on that. Notch it or whatever to get it to work.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 2,317
Likes: 111
From: St Louis MO
Here's what has worked for me...
1. Cut a 2x4 to fit across the fenders above the bell housing cushioned by a couple of 1/2 inch thick neoprene pads.
2. Put a couple of 1 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch bolts into the upper bolt holes which held the (now removed) torque converter inspection cover, one on each side.
3. Take tension upwards on each bolt to the 2x4 with a pair of small 3/4 inch or 1 inch wide tie down straps. (Small diameter rope works too.) Each strap only needs to support about 50 lb.
4. If you need more tension, simply lift the end of the 2x4 and insert a small 6 x 6 x 1" square board under each end of the 2x4 as required.
This holds the front end of the trans up quite nicely.
1. Cut a 2x4 to fit across the fenders above the bell housing cushioned by a couple of 1/2 inch thick neoprene pads.
2. Put a couple of 1 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch bolts into the upper bolt holes which held the (now removed) torque converter inspection cover, one on each side.
3. Take tension upwards on each bolt to the 2x4 with a pair of small 3/4 inch or 1 inch wide tie down straps. (Small diameter rope works too.) Each strap only needs to support about 50 lb.
4. If you need more tension, simply lift the end of the 2x4 and insert a small 6 x 6 x 1" square board under each end of the 2x4 as required.
This holds the front end of the trans up quite nicely.
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 17,676
Likes: 201
From: Who says "Nothing is impossible" ? I've been doing nothing for years.
The weight is not that much at all, I put folded towels on the fenders and put a hockey stick across on top of the towels and get some mechanics wire and run it through the top two bolt holes and around the hockey stick. Been doing it this way for 10 years with no problems
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
I'm with you. If you are in that deep, just take it out. 2 Mount bolts, speedo cable, kickdown wire, linkage and you are out.rev-on a 700R4 it's not a kickdown wire, it's a lockup plug, but same difference. Very little work to remove the trans with engine out. You can leave the driveshft in if you want if all you do is move it back and forth a few car lengths.
Last edited by markdtn; May 21, 2010 at 10:56 AM.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Here's what has worked for me...
1. Cut a 2x4 to fit across the fenders above the bell housing cushioned by a couple of 1/2 inch thick neoprene pads.
2. Put a couple of 1 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch bolts into the upper bolt holes which held the (now removed) torque converter inspection cover, one on each side.
3. Take tension upwards on each bolt to the 2x4 with a pair of small 3/4 inch or 1 inch wide tie down straps. (Small diameter rope works too.) Each strap only needs to support about 50 lb.
4. If you need more tension, simply lift the end of the 2x4 and insert a small 6 x 6 x 1" square board under each end of the 2x4 as required.
This holds the front end of the trans up quite nicely.
1. Cut a 2x4 to fit across the fenders above the bell housing cushioned by a couple of 1/2 inch thick neoprene pads.
2. Put a couple of 1 1/2 inch long 1/4 inch bolts into the upper bolt holes which held the (now removed) torque converter inspection cover, one on each side.
3. Take tension upwards on each bolt to the 2x4 with a pair of small 3/4 inch or 1 inch wide tie down straps. (Small diameter rope works too.) Each strap only needs to support about 50 lb.
4. If you need more tension, simply lift the end of the 2x4 and insert a small 6 x 6 x 1" square board under each end of the 2x4 as required.
This holds the front end of the trans up quite nicely.
The weight is not that much at all, I put folded towels on the fenders and put a hockey stick across on top of the towels and get some mechanics wire and run it through the top two bolt holes and around the hockey stick. Been doing it this way for 10 years with no problems
My trans holder goes under the trans so it can go on before the trans is separated from the engine, I used to use a jack during the separation process until I tripped over the jack handle one day and did a face plant on the concrete floor.
