Interior Restoration Questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 28
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Interior Restoration Questions
I am planning to replace the carpeting, seats, shifter console trim and door panels in my 1980.
Any specific "danger areas" to watch out for?
In other words is this too much for a novice to handle? :D
Any specific "danger areas" to watch out for?
In other words is this too much for a novice to handle? :D
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 6,161
Likes: 0
From: Easton PA
Re: Interior Restoration Questions (Chris Butchart)
Not at all. Just take your time and go slow and it will work out. Keep track of where all of the screws are located.. If you are missing some, I would recommend a new interior screw kit too. If you have an AIM it greatly helps.
And welcome to the forum
[Modified by 82dukman, 10:21 PM 3/18/2002]
And welcome to the forum
[Modified by 82dukman, 10:21 PM 3/18/2002]
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 3,365
Likes: 5
From: Lake Villa IL
Cruise-In IV Veteran
Cruise-In V Veteran
St. Jude Contributor
Re: Interior Restoration Questions (Chris Butchart)
This was one of the first projects I attempted with my Vette. Check out my website for photos of the redone interior.
It's not that hard. As mentioned, spring for a new screw set. They cost less than $30, and are worth every penny. Also, be careful when removing the upper dash pad. It's easily cracked. Mine was fractured in several spots. I used Plumber's Goop to repair the cracks. This did an admirable job repairing the plastic frame, but if I were to do it over, I'd buy that two part epoxy. It's a lot stronger. Also, be careful with the hard plastic parts (i.e. gauge panel). The screw receptacles on the back are pretty fragile.
Good luck. E-mail me if you have questions.
It's not that hard. As mentioned, spring for a new screw set. They cost less than $30, and are worth every penny. Also, be careful when removing the upper dash pad. It's easily cracked. Mine was fractured in several spots. I used Plumber's Goop to repair the cracks. This did an admirable job repairing the plastic frame, but if I were to do it over, I'd buy that two part epoxy. It's a lot stronger. Also, be careful with the hard plastic parts (i.e. gauge panel). The screw receptacles on the back are pretty fragile.
Good luck. E-mail me if you have questions.
Instructor
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 189
Likes: 0
From: Berkeley Heights New Jersey
Re: Interior Restoration Questions (Chris Butchart)
Hi Chris
As you can see below, I'm in the same process. Tonight I just removed the dash pad and speedo/tack panel. I am replacing the printed circuit board on the tach. Then it time to lay the insulation and carpet. I just finished replacing the leather seat covers. Came out great! Door panels were standard because the previous owner was too cheap to put the right deluxe ones in. I bought the components for from RIKS to make them deluxe. Like the others said, take your time and do not glue the carpet down. :chevy
As you can see below, I'm in the same process. Tonight I just removed the dash pad and speedo/tack panel. I am replacing the printed circuit board on the tach. Then it time to lay the insulation and carpet. I just finished replacing the leather seat covers. Came out great! Door panels were standard because the previous owner was too cheap to put the right deluxe ones in. I bought the components for from RIKS to make them deluxe. Like the others said, take your time and do not glue the carpet down. :chevy
Pro
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 708
Likes: 21
From: Montrose CA
Re: Interior Restoration Questions (Pete79L82)
My tip is to go ahead and use the vinyl spray paint on all the interior panels... The paint I got from Ecklers was most easy to use... way easier to use verses regular enamal spray paint. Really made the interior look outstanding... And be sure to paint the steering colum while your at it. Another tip... when working on the gages, replace benzel lenses (the clear plastic part) on all places including the headlamps and door ajar indicator lights.
