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hard to start when warm 1980 flooding

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Old May 25, 2010 | 05:55 PM
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Default hard to start when warm 1980 flooding

I have a 1980 corvette with a rebuilt 350 engine(350 miles on it) bored 30 over with a edlebrock 4 barel caburator and a aluminum intake. I am also running headers that are wraped to keep the heat down. The car starts and runs like a champ, but after driving about 10 or more miles I'll stop and turn it off and when I go to restart it will not want to easily. I am pretty sure it is flooded. I've put a spacer between the carb and intake and no difference. Does anybody have any other ideas on how to stop this problem.
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Old May 25, 2010 | 07:13 PM
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Could be timing, hot starter, bad carb if it's flooding. A well tuned small block should fire just buy turning the key. start there
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Old May 25, 2010 | 07:35 PM
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From: houston al
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sniper is correct those are the two reasons for a hot hard to start condition, one if it is starter heat sink then the motor will drag and not turn over freely, if it is flooding then it will turn over normally but just not crank. Hold the gas petal to the floor while cranking it, that usually will start a flooded motor. One other thing that it could be is timing, if to far advanced it will have hard starts, especially on a hot motor...
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:30 PM
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holding the pedal to the floor does help it start. it cranks over at a good pace. how do I get it to stop flooding. can I adjust the floats in the carb. and if so which way do I adjust it. float less or more
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Old May 25, 2010 | 08:43 PM
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check the needle and seat that its not stuck. run the car witout the air cleaner then after u shut it off look into the carb and see if gas is pooring in
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Old May 26, 2010 | 04:10 PM
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From: houston al
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the float needle valve may be not seating correctly, maybe a small piece of junk blocking it or as simple as the floats are set correctly
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Old May 26, 2010 | 08:01 PM
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Default Vapor lock

I tend to lead toward vapor lock. I think the fuel in the line is getting too hot.
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Old May 26, 2010 | 09:26 PM
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When you shut down the car and its hot I bet the fuel in the carb is boiling out into the manifold, hence flooding the car out.You need a spacer that is made to insulate the carb from the manifold.There are different styles look at Summit Racing.I had the same problem but had no hood clearance so I couldn't use a spacer.I changed my fuel pump back to the original style with a return line and that made a big difference.Do you have a after market fuel pump?What is your spacer made of?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 09:37 PM
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What is the base timing set at?
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Old May 26, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Default Yep, especially with a metal tube fuel line.

Originally Posted by flyinfree
I tend to lead toward vapor lock. I think the fuel in the line is getting too hot.
Fashion up a braided line and see if it helps.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 12:22 AM
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Make sure u have the vac line from dist going to tube on carb to timed and not ported. Standing in front of engine it be the carb port on the right side above throttle plates
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 11:09 AM
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Is the stock starter heat shield in place? My hunch is your headers are hotting up the solenoid.

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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 11:41 AM
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Edelbrock sells insulating gaskets to help with the problem your most likely having.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9265/

Last edited by DRIVESHAFT; Jul 8, 2012 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 11:43 AM
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This is my first time driving my '80 in 30°C/86°F+ temps, and my starter drags after a good drive and you try to restart without a cooldown. The OEM heat shield is there and I have stock manifolds.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 03:00 PM
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Originally Posted by DRIVESHAFT
Edelbrock sells insulating gaskets to help with the problem your most likely having.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9266/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-9265/

I had the same troubles and found a phenolic spacer to be helpful. Also, I replaced the metal fuel line with a rubber one and then routed it away from the headers as much as possible. Now it will restart within about 5 seconds of cranking (starts right up when cold).
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 03:38 PM
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Read Lars paper on carb spacers. You need a heat shield not a spacer. I have a spacer and on very hot days my carb still boils. Made a heat shield solved the problem. Read this paper midway down. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=62086
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Greatsteaks
Read Lars paper on carb spacers. You need a heat shield not a spacer. I have a spacer and on very hot days my carb still boils. Made a heat shield solved the problem. Read this paper midway down. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=62086
Useful - thanks for the good post. Maybe this plus the spacer will help get the engine firing up immediately.
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Old Jul 8, 2012 | 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Greatsteaks
Read Lars paper on carb spacers. You need a heat shield not a spacer. I have a spacer and on very hot days my carb still boils. Made a heat shield solved the problem. Read this paper midway down. http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/atta...chmentid=62086
Lars' email address is towards the top of the paper, ask if he has an updated version. He's a great guy and has sent me several updates on Q-Jets.
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