Points & Condensor Help
If 30* dwell is sufficient for the coil build a charge to fire an engine at 6,000 rpm, it is overkill for an engine at idle or any speed in between. Once the primary windings in the coil have been saturated, any additional dwell time is waste.
These engines started, idled and did everything just fine when new. If they are returned to original condition, an electronic gadget will make no difference.
The Ignitor WILL improve starting and lower RPM power on ANY Vette over a "Kettering ignition system" GM chose to spend some dollars in the 1960's for the K-66 transistor ignition set-up, they were optional on many Vettes (and manditory requirements on the ones I chose to own until they penny pinched in 1972.) I guess they didn't realize how good the Kettering ignition system was.
Use what your please, I know what works for me.
Texas business man Ross Perot, while running for president, warned us of this great sucking sound going to Mexico if NAFTA was passed and he was right. Companies are sending all their manufacturing business to Mexico and the quality leaves so much to be desired. I do have a question on plugs but need to see the Celtics / Lakers game.
John
The Ignitor WILL improve starting and lower RPM power on ANY Vette over a "Kettering ignition system" GM chose to spend some dollars in the 1960's for the K-66 transistor ignition set-up, they were optional on many Vettes (and manditory requirements on the ones I chose to own until they penny pinched in 1972.) I guess they didn't realize how good the Kettering ignition system was.
Use what your please, I know what works for me.




If 30* dwell is sufficient for the coil build a charge to fire an engine at 6,000 rpm, it is overkill for an engine at idle or any speed in between. Once the primary windings in the coil have been saturated, any additional dwell time is waste.
These engines started, idled and did everything just fine when new. If they are returned to original condition, an electronic gadget will make no difference.
Depending on the specs of the ignition system (energy vs RPM) and the VE curve, it may or may not be overkill at lower RPMs.
Depending on the specs of the ignition system (energy vs RPM) and the VE curve, it may or may not be overkill at lower RPMs.
As to where we Canadians get our parts, we buy them at our local FLAPS like everybody else. I use Blue Streak DR3575CX just like in the OP's picture. Made in USA it says on the box. Not Hecho (or Hencho) en Mexico.
If 30* dwell is sufficient for the coil build a charge to fire an engine at 6,000 rpm, it is overkill for an engine at idle or any speed in between. Once the primary windings in the coil have been saturated, any additional dwell time is waste.
These engines started, idled and did everything just fine when new. If they are returned to original condition, an electronic gadget will make no difference.
I sold my show C6 last year (to a forum member), so I've got nothing against progress and electronics. But I got the chance to grab a '72 LT-1 A/C coupe, so I'm going back in time now. I remember how well they ran back then, on and off the drag strip (except for lack of traction with that tire "technology"), so I'm staying stock. My brother bought his '66 427/390 brand new and still has it. Its all stock original and might have had the points changed only twice by now. And it runs like its 1966. I get my parts locally, but my financing for these cars comes from Canada. That's where I imported my wife from!




I don't worship Lars orally the way some guys do on here LOL - but I do fully recognize and acknowledge that the man "knows his stuff".
He has the intelligence and the means and the ability to evaluate components in a "lab" setting.
Lars validated what many of us believed - that quality "stock" tension points are quite adequate for the majority of us.
I just went through a big exercise building an instrumented test stand to load test coils and ballasts after my car (after 40 years) developed a cutting out problem usually initiated by lifting off the throttle at fairly low engine speed (agrees with 69427's statement of low RPM voltage / energy requirements).
After rousting up remaining USA made coils and quality (not Taiwanese Delco imitation) ballasts it turned out to be the supposed premium quality Mallory 401 condenser I installed when I built my vacuum advance distributor two years ago.
Changing the condenser was the last thing left to do before resorting to changing back to my old mechanical advance only "race" distributor that had served me so well for 35 years.
As I have subsequently read or realized - don't replace your condenser "just because" when you are replacing points.
My brand new MALLORY condenser would short out / break down ? in warm weather after extended run time. Cool days - not a problem.
In the process I discovered an excellent high quality Mercedes ballast resistor that is quite close in configuration to the original Delco ballast : with a very nice red anodized metal mounting bracket , screw terminals and 1.8 ohm cold and 2 ohm hot resistance - confirmed by bench testing.
It is sealed construction with only a single connection interface unlike the original GM Delco ballasts with three corrosion susceptible connection interfaces.
Last edited by QIK59; Jun 24, 2014 at 08:34 PM.
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