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If you do not have SS sleaved bores the cast iron bores must be free of pitting caused by rusting from water in fliud. Pistons which are aluminum need to be corrision free where the seals go. Water normally collects where lip seal contacts bore. Easy to rebuild if still in good shape. You can not tell if it is repairable until it is disassembled. Remove caliper and disassemble it and tell us what you have. mike...
If you buy rebuilt calipers they come with SS sleeves. I bought a few rebuild kits then went out and bought a re-built caliper, much easier. I got it from Auto Zone and it has a lifetime replacment. I have had it about 6 years and no problems.
Pop the pistons out of the caliper to see if they are stainless, most are nowadays,then make your decision..
I'm guessing mine aren't stainless and probably aren't going to be worth saving considering the rust they have on them...
Notice this bottom photo is of the side that most likely has the leak. I noticed that the seals on the pistons are not even. The top seal is almost flush with the piston while the bottom seal is recessed a bit on bottom piston...
Last edited by PUNISHER VETTE; May 30, 2010 at 08:29 PM.
Rust looks like from back of pads. Dust boot pushed out on top piston poss. due to leaking lip seal. Take out brake pad pin and remove pads. Pop out piston dust boot, remove piston and inspect piston bore. Keeping my fingers crossed that you have SS sleaved calipers. mike...
Take out brake pad pin and remove pads. Pop out piston dust seal, remove piston and inspect piston bore. Keeping my fingers crossed that you have SS sleaved calipers. mike...
Just stick a screwdriver under the edge of the dust seal and pop those suckers out. All calipers rust on the outside the stainless is inside the bores.
Definately look stainless. Can you feel any wear inside bores? Third pic. left bore looks suspect? I Cleaned bores with gray scotchbrite pad with brake fluid as a lubricant. Rebuild kits will come with small o-ring to seal halves to totally rebuild caliper. Here is mine waiting to go back on. mike...
Definately look stainless. Can you feel any wear inside bores? Third pic. left bore looks suspect? I Cleaned bores with gray scotchbrite pad with brake fluid as a lubricant. Rebuild kits will come with small o-ring to seal halves to totally rebuild caliper. Here is mine waiting to go back on. mike...
I'm heading out of town for a few days so i can't clean it till then but from what i felt they seemed smoother than they look in the photos. I think the spot you and I are seeing is more of a discoloration than anything else.
What I don't get is it seems easy to do the rebuild and i'm wondering why i saw so many threads where people just said to buy new. I find that to be very unlike the do it yourself type crowd that is usually around here.
Mine had the same discoloration as yours but I was not sure from the photo if it had damage. This is how I was taught to do the rebuild. Clean halves in laquer thinner. I then used a wire brush on a bench grinder to remove rust on outside surface. Clean up bores with the gray scotchbrite pads with brake fluid as a lubricant. Usually 3 or 4 light passes will return bores to a uniform appearance. I then used a piece of glass as it will be flat and secured 100 grit wet or dry sand paper to the glass. Sanded mating surfaces of halves to clean them up and to be sure there are no high spots, should not be any. Clean again in laquer thinner blow out with compressed air. Filled bores with paper towel covered holes for bleeders and line and reinstall old dust seals. Primed and painted caliper halves, remove masking. Lube bores and seals, not dust seals, with brake assembly lube or fluid and installed springs, pistons with seals installed and used a properly sized socket or other to lightly hammer dust boots untill seated slightly below caliper surface. Place small o-ring in recess of half and place other half over it, bolt halves together. I went with o-ring piston seals but the lip seals were still good after 20+ yrs. with silicone fluid. mike...
I should have just bought new and been done with it by now
I've gone through 2 rebuild kits on 1 caliper and will not have enough extra seals to finish with all the mistakes that have happened.
The stupid seal keeps getting ripped when i push the piston in. It's not due to me pushing it in crooked as i know i'm straight. It's either the piston or the new seals that just don't fit 100% right. I was able to get 2 pistons in no problem then **** hit the fan. So i guess i know i'm doing it right as 2 went in perfect....
Looking at ordering some from autozone and just chalking this up as a complete loss.
I should have just bought new and been done with it by now
I've gone through 2 rebuild kits on 1 caliper and will not have enough extra seals to finish with all the mistakes that have happened.
The stupid seal keeps getting ripped when i push the piston in. It's not due to me pushing it in crooked as i know i'm straight. It's either the piston or the new seals that just don't fit 100% right. I was able to get 2 pistons in no problem then **** hit the fan. So i guess i know i'm doing it right as 2 went in perfect....
Looking at ordering some from autozone and just chalking this up as a complete loss.
I walk the seal edge down and inside the bore with a shoehorn like thin piece of soft plastic I made.
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