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Lower A-arm geometry

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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 05:14 PM
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Default Lower A-arm geometry

Since my paint work has come to a halt momentarily, I was going over my chassis again.
From what I can see the right rear bolt of the right lower A-arm is sitting about 10 mm lower than the other. Is this condition common and if so, what can be done ?
There is no frame damage, nor damage to the bracket of the lower A-arm on the frame.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
Since my paint work has come to a halt momentarily, I was going over my chassis again.
From what I can see the right rear bolt of the right lower A-arm is sitting about 10 mm lower than the other. Is this condition common and if so, what can be done ?
There is no frame damage, nor damage to the bracket of the lower A-arm on the frame.
If you are refering to the large rear bolt being lower than the two front ones, or the bolts in the end of the bushings, that is normal.
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Old Jun 2, 2010 | 09:03 PM
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Crawl under there and look over the crossmember real well. Those areas are prone to cracking
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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I was already under there, no cracking and everything looks original.

It's the small bolt that goes in the bushing at the end of the crossshaft I'm referring to.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
I was already under there, no cracking and everything looks original.

It's the small bolt that goes in the bushing at the end of the crossshaft I'm referring to.
Pics would help

But if the cross shaft bolts aren't centered in the a-arm, that would imply your bushings have collapsed.

Or those bushings can also completely disintegrate like mine did. See below...


Last edited by wcsinx; Jun 3, 2010 at 01:05 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 03:16 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Pics would help

But if the cross shaft bolts aren't centered in the a-arm, that would imply your bushings have collapsed.

Or those bushings can also completely disintegrate like mine did. See below...

They are new, poly's, and they're ok. That's not it.

It's difficult to put it on to a picture. When measuring teh distance from the rear bolt of the top A-arm, it's 10 mm shorter on the right side.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 03:38 PM
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So your saying the right side upper & lower control arms are closer to each other than the left side control arms???
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 03:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
They are new, poly's, and they're ok. That's not it.

It's difficult to put it on to a picture. When measuring teh distance from the rear bolt of the top A-arm, it's 10 mm shorter on the right side.
You're not stating your problem very well. What exactly are you measuring? From A to B

Now I'll say this because I have a bit more insight with this last post of yours. You say you have new poly bushings installed. One thing I noticed when I redid my bushings is that you have to keep the cross shaft centered in the a-arm. The end bolts will try to pull it one direction or the other, and they don't bottom out in the cross shaft so they need to be torqued simultaneously. Otherwise, if you torque bolt 1 all the way then flip the a-arm around and torque bolt 2, you'll find the cross shaft is now off center in the a-arm yanked over towards bolt 1, and bolt 2 won't have near as much thread engagement.

Is this perhaps what you're seeing?
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 04:16 PM
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Thx for the suggestion, but i don't think that a difference of 10 mm can be caused by misalignment in the bushings alone.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 04:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Belgian1979vette
Thx for the suggestion, but i don't think that a difference of 10 mm can be caused by misalignment in the bushings alone.
And you'd be wrong on that. I've seen it happen.

And FYI, it's not a misalignment of the bushings. They don't move. It's a mis-centering of the cross-shaft.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
The end bolts will try to pull it one direction or the other, and they don't bottom out in the cross shaft so they need to be torqued simultaneously
Hold on a second.
I'm doing my left A-arms right now and I can assure you that both ends were and are to be tightened so that the bolt on each end is indeed bottomed on the cross shft, or rather the inner sleeve. If you have a "centering issue" then your A-arms got "spread" when the old bushings got banged out. There should be no way to "off center" the cross shaft at all. Really.

The inner sleeve has teeth at each end and those teeth need to engage the crossshaft and the big washer. At that point the center bushing sleeve is captured and will not turn on the shaft at all. It turns with the shaft.

That's why you need to wait to tighten those bolts if you are using rubber bushings. Poly bushings can rotate on the sleeve and in the shell so you can tighten those. The rubber bushings only "flex", they don't rotate - so you need to have the car's weight on the them before tightening them - because tightening them fixes the position of the two inner sleeves for good.

I'm very sure of this procedure, and the "why's" of it.

-W

PS: Nothing in this post speaks to the OP's problem. It was just to correct the shaft centering info.

Last edited by Clams Canino; Jun 3, 2010 at 06:17 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 05:48 PM
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The bolts don't bottom out in the a-arm. I can assure you of that. But now you've got me thinking, Clams. You are right in that the inner sleeve should seat on both the lip on the cross shaft and the retaining washer. So on second thought, I think I must have been seeing the bushing compress on one side and then the other. I must ponder on this.

On the lower arms, torqueing one side then the other got me uncomfortably little thread engagement on the second bolt. I guess I could've kept going, and I either would seated the sleeve or stripped the hole!

Last edited by wcsinx; Jun 3, 2010 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 06:20 PM
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From: Anderson SC
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
The bolts don't bottom out in the a-arm. I can assure you of that. But now you've got me thinking, Clams. You are right in that the inner sleeve should seat on both the lip on the cross shaft and the retaining washer. So on second thought, I think I must have been seeing the bushing compress on one side and then the other. I must ponder on this.

On the lower arms, torqueing one side then the other got me uncomfortably little thread engagement on the second bolt. I guess I could've kept going, and I either would seated the sleeve or stripped the hole!
Well... the washer hits the inner sleeve and the bolt hits the washer.. but yes when you torque them up to specs - it's a solid thing.

It sounds like your lower was spread. Mine was too a little bit I did them a little one side at a time like you.. but in the end it was all pulled tight. And torqued down tight. If I put the shaft in my vice I can still pivot the A-arm easily enough on the poly bushings.

-W

Last edited by Clams Canino; Jun 3, 2010 at 11:27 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2010 | 11:30 PM
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I did the uppers after my last post. You can tighten the bolts until you compress the bushing a bit and the inner sleeve will indeed hit on both ends of it. I gave it a break and then torqued more after 10 minutes to let the bushing "adapt". But yes... once the inner sleeve hits... the bolt gets hard to turn.... real fast.

-W
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