Powder Coating ??
Burning Brakes
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 1,080
Likes: 1
From: Frankfurt, Taunus Hills
Re: Powder Coating ?? (Mike1971)
1. Applying ionized color-powder to metal surfaces and bake it to a hard coat finish.
2. Bare metal, ionize color powder, apply, cure in oven for ~ 20 min at 300* F.
3. ~ twice the cost of paint, but 3 times thicker and tougher
4. tough hard coat, outperforms paint with ease. Resistant to lots of chemicals.
Looks: check out this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=253686
2. Bare metal, ionize color powder, apply, cure in oven for ~ 20 min at 300* F.
3. ~ twice the cost of paint, but 3 times thicker and tougher
4. tough hard coat, outperforms paint with ease. Resistant to lots of chemicals.
Looks: check out this thread http://forums.corvetteforum.com/zerothread?id=253686
Racer
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 264
Likes: 0
From: Maricopa AZ
Re: Powder Coating ?? (JSB69)
I like the powder coating A lot. Just don't use any carb clearner around it. The carb cleaner will stick the dirt to it for good. Gas and grease wipes right off. I have yellow valve covers and that was a mistake. I had my stock intake manifold done In gloss black and looks great. :cool:
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,246
Likes: 1
Re: Powder Coating ?? (Zane)
You can powdercoat yourself at home with the hot-coat system from eastwood ( http://www.eastwoodcompany.com )
I did it myself, you need a large electric oven (or else you can only do small parts) and a compressor of course.
Here's the before and after of some stuff I did:
after removal:
after sandblasting:
And after powdercoating in RAL 9002 (high gloss black)
Also did a lot of small stuff (bad pic)
Xander
[Modified by V-Twin, 3:52 AM 3/21/2002]
[Modified by V-Twin, 3:53 AM 3/21/2002]
I did it myself, you need a large electric oven (or else you can only do small parts) and a compressor of course.
Here's the before and after of some stuff I did:
after removal:
after sandblasting:
And after powdercoating in RAL 9002 (high gloss black)
Also did a lot of small stuff (bad pic)
Xander
[Modified by V-Twin, 3:52 AM 3/21/2002]
[Modified by V-Twin, 3:53 AM 3/21/2002]
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
Re: Powder Coating ?? (JSB69)
Powder coat is excellent stuff & I'd highly recommend it. The frame on my m/cycle was powder coated many years ago & the lower tubes that get constantly hit by stones etc look as good as the day they were done.
The orange peel effect can be removed by using T-cut, or a similar rubbing compound, to give a high gloss finish (takes a lot of effort though!).
Powder coating quality can vary from place to place. The people who did all the bikes I built put it on really thick, which filled any surface imperfections. The people I've had to use for my Vette parts put it on thinly (probably trying to maximise their profits :mad ) & while it is just as tough, it doesn't have the smooth high gloss finish :cry
Removing powder coat can be a real nightmare & I've just discovered that cellulose thinners soften the surface. It sets hard again but then has a dull finish.
Go for it! Try a couple of test pieces 1st (unless you do it yourself) as the finish seems to vary between painters.
:cheers:
The orange peel effect can be removed by using T-cut, or a similar rubbing compound, to give a high gloss finish (takes a lot of effort though!).
Powder coating quality can vary from place to place. The people who did all the bikes I built put it on really thick, which filled any surface imperfections. The people I've had to use for my Vette parts put it on thinly (probably trying to maximise their profits :mad ) & while it is just as tough, it doesn't have the smooth high gloss finish :cry
Removing powder coat can be a real nightmare & I've just discovered that cellulose thinners soften the surface. It sets hard again but then has a dull finish.
Go for it! Try a couple of test pieces 1st (unless you do it yourself) as the finish seems to vary between painters.
:cheers:
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Re: Powder Coating ?? (UKPaul)
Thick application isn't always desired. When the powdercoated part flexes (like a spring) it's better to have a thinner coat. Too thick will make it brottle and it WILL chip!
Marck
Marck
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Sheridan Wyoming
Re: Powder Coating ?? (V-Twin)
Wow that looks great!
Did you do it with the $200 gun or the $800?
I suppose an old kitchen oven would do many parts?
What happens to the powder that doesn't stick to your piece? Waist or recycled?
Also, have you had experience painting parts?
Thanks!! :flag
Did you do it with the $200 gun or the $800?
I suppose an old kitchen oven would do many parts?
What happens to the powder that doesn't stick to your piece? Waist or recycled?
Also, have you had experience painting parts?
Thanks!! :flag
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Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 16,945
Likes: 9
Re: Powder Coating ?? (Mike1971)
The gun was on sale at Eastwood for 100$ or so (someone here posted it back then, I think it was monty!)
You should also order the hi-po deflector. The stock one works too slow. The only advantage of the higher $ guns are that you can hold more powder and you won't have a seperate voltage supply w/ seperate ****. If you practice a little you'll be so fast at switching bottles the smaller capacity isn't a problem.
The way to get the best results is by pre heating your object. This will also minimize orange peel (wich is partly caused by the grains not fully flowing all the way). Pre heating also minimizes the chance of knocking off powder and it will evaporate all solvents you used to degrease. If it's VERY rough after curing it hasn't cured long enough.
Oh and it's NOT recommended to recycle the powder. However, powder isn't cheap so if you have parts that just need coating and don't need to be super nice you can recycle it if it's NOT contaminated.
Marck
[Modified by Twinnie, 3:08 PM 3/21/2002]
You should also order the hi-po deflector. The stock one works too slow. The only advantage of the higher $ guns are that you can hold more powder and you won't have a seperate voltage supply w/ seperate ****. If you practice a little you'll be so fast at switching bottles the smaller capacity isn't a problem.
The way to get the best results is by pre heating your object. This will also minimize orange peel (wich is partly caused by the grains not fully flowing all the way). Pre heating also minimizes the chance of knocking off powder and it will evaporate all solvents you used to degrease. If it's VERY rough after curing it hasn't cured long enough.
Oh and it's NOT recommended to recycle the powder. However, powder isn't cheap so if you have parts that just need coating and don't need to be super nice you can recycle it if it's NOT contaminated.
Marck
[Modified by Twinnie, 3:08 PM 3/21/2002]
