C3 Tech/Performance V8 Technical Info, Internal Engine, External Engine, Basic Tech and Maintenance for the C3 Corvette
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 12:09 PM
  #1  
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Default First surprise.

Just really getting to know my new to me C3. I knew that there were a few electrical issues. The dash and dome lights don't work. The dimmer swith doesn't work. The left turn signal indicator is out. The wipers are running off of a push button switch, low speed only. Most of the wiring under the dash is bubba'd up good. Several splices with bare wire twisted together. The power locks don't work.

Last night I dug in to diagnose what I could and found several bare wires in a bundle just above the hood release cable. They have been hot enough to melt away the insulation. I threw up in my mouth a little and quit there. It is a 79 w/AC, cruise, power windows and locks.

I know that the right answer is a new harness. What little I've studied it so far, looks like I'll need atleast a dash wiring harness at about $900. Depressing, I was hoping to just properly fix some splices and replace some switches. Chassis electrical is not my strong suit nor is it my favorite. Been using the search function and learning as I go. Just sharing my torment, any advice would be appreciated.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rick's
...any advice would be appreciated....
My advice would be to bite the bullet and order a new dash harness. Anything less is running the risk of a fire. You mention the old harness appears to have been very, very hot at some time in the past. Sounds like a potential fire waiting to happen.

What's the condition of the forward lamp and engine harnesses under the hood?

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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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If you want to try and fix what you have (although, I agree with Mike) get the oOsoeeze, wire diagrams from Doc. Rebuild. They are only about $12.50 each, and they show the actual connectors and wire colors and sizes for the entire car. I have all the diagrams for both my 64 and 73, and they are easy to follow, check them out, on line.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 08:58 PM
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Most of the Bubba work appears (based on what I've seen so far) to be limited to the dash. I am looking at the lectric limited set.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:09 PM
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I have the same problem as you, but seeing as I am setting my car up for performance, I am going a different rout. Which is to say, all I really want my car to have is brake lights, head lights, horn, turn signals, back up lights, and dash lights.




And that's about it. I've already done everything for the engine, which actually wasn't as hard as I thought it would be. Once this driving season is over, I am going to replace all of the wires and switches of each system one by one, without a harness. I'm also going to move the fuse box, as it's current location under the steering column makes me want to slit my wrists. My biggest fear is the dash. It terrifies me. Maybe you and I will be able to get through this together?
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:16 PM
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I would replace the entire harness. I was lucky with my 75, not much was bubba'd under the dash at all. Take your time, get the diagrams from doc rebuilds. And ask on here. YOU CAN DO IT!!
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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Since you have to remove so much of the dash to do the harness, then certainly do the A/C harness too. The A/C harness passes thru the firewall up behind the heater box. I used Lectric Limited harnesses from Wilcox and everything was perfect. And I agree that the oOSOEZ diagram from Dr. Rebuild was really a big help. My '73 was also a mess from the previous owners, so I replaced the engine and headlight harnesses too; they were very easy to do. Another suggestion; take lots and lots of digital photos before you begin.

Oh yeah, while you're under the dash, consider replacing all the rubber vacuum hoses. Get a vacuum pump and test all your vacuum actuators on the heat-A/C system before you put it all back together. Two out of four on mine were not working.

Good luck!
John
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 09:22 PM
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You can spend hours on end (endless hours on end) trying to figure out what somebody else has done -- with no diagrams to support --- or you can replace the wiring harness and be done with it. Just my opinion, but if you want it working the way it is supposed to, the solution is to replace it.
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