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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 02:45 PM
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Default CR and Cam Choice

Can someone simply explain to me how compression ratio affects cam choice. Is it so high that some needs to be bled off with overlap/duration

I have a BBC with 10.35 CR. I currently have a Comp XE274H now and want to to go to a Lunati 60201 (256/262 213/219 .515"/.530" 112/108) to make the car more street friendly for my wife. I keep hearing with my compression I need "more cam"
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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The amount of overlap determines how much pressure bleeds off.

Your present cam is 230/236 110 the Lunati you posted is 213/219

That is a radical change and your compression is too high for it. This crane cam will tone it down.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Last edited by gkull; Jun 9, 2010 at 04:55 PM.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 03:22 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
The amount of overlap determines how much pressure bleeds off.

Your present cam is 230/236 110 the Lunati you posted is 213/219

That is a radical change and you compression is too high for it. This crane cam will tone it down.

http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft

Yeah that cam is one step down and will run fine my problem is what problem are you having with the current cam ? That cam should run fine for anyone to run around town with 230/236 is mild for a big block.

Tell us what it runs like and what your wife doesn't like about it and maybe you don't even have to swap cams.
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Old Jun 9, 2010 | 04:35 PM
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Another way you can help us help you is give us a compression test reading. If your over 190psi than that cam is too small.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 09:25 AM
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Thanks for the suggestions, but the Crane cam recommended usable RPM range is 2000-5800. I'm not using a stall converter (well I am now- but it's coming out). Would this be a drivablity issue, again this car needs to be very street friendly, don't want to go to neutral at stop lights etc.

Again not clear on the compression issue...what is it about my current compression that makes the Lunati 6020 not a good choice (I guess I need to know how that will affect engine performance and drivability)???

So I need a cam with more duration to bleed off the compresson somewhat?


Mike

Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Jun 11, 2010 at 09:37 AM.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 10:38 AM
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This is one example of why it's not worth wasting your time posting.

230/236 is actually a mild cam if the lobe sepperation is higher than 110 and the valve events are altered. But people gravitate to the all show and no go BS comp cams line up of XE cams. Only later in real life find out that they suck.

Another part of the problem is owners that don't understand tuning and the whole package of parts relationship.

Then I suggest dropping 8 degrees on the intake cam. Very major change especially since the lobe center also went to 112
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
Thanks for the suggestions, but the Crane cam recommended usable RPM range is 2000-5800. I'm not using a stall converter (well I am now- but it's coming out). Would this be a drivablity issue, again this car needs to be very street friendly, don't want to go to neutral at stop lights etc.

Again not clear on the compression issue...what is it about my current compression that makes the Lunati 6020 not a good choice (I guess I need to know how that will affect engine performance and drivability)???

So I need a cam with more duration to bleed off the compresson somewhat?


Mike
I hope Gkull didn't go over your head but he's talking about the intake valve closing for the compression stroke. The earlier it closes the more compression the engine retains at low rpm but at high rpm the later the intake closes it will allow more F/A mix fills the cylinder because of the velocity of the air rushing down the intake port.
He's also stating, the car will need a high stall speed converter, gearing, carb tuning and distributor tuning just to drive it!!!

I have learned over many years of screwing around that if you want a screamer/track car then go for it BUT If you need a cruise night, cruise down the highway, take it to work kind of car then stay conservative!!!
10 to 1 compression is nice if that's what you really have....I assume you need to run 91+octane and may have a ping every now & then... A mild cam wild be a nice improvement. I would keep it under 230 duration @.050 IMO If you go any high your car will be a dog off idle unless you want too start making all those chages we talked about...
PS Anything over .500 lift you cannot use stock rocker arms, long slots are needed
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:30 AM
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If you want a driveable car then why not use a GM grind cam, or something along the lines that GKull suggested, a wider LSA with slower ramp rates to reduce your dynamic compression and non of the comp xe BS to deal with.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 11:45 AM
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FWIW...

We have an old school Comp 270h in my dads 9.8-1 461" and it has a nice idle, you can still hear a little lope...but not at all choppy. It makes power right off idle with the Performer intake and is very docile, torquey....it's in a 4200lb 69' Grand Prix with a 4sp and the car is a dream to drive....at least for a cruiser...cam has been in that motor 20 yrs.

Ofcourse there is much better cams out today that make way more power but if you wanted something mild, can run stock converter and exh manifold etc, I think the 270h is still a good one... We have never had any pinging in this one running 36* total but do not run vacuum advance.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 01:09 PM
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This is one example of why it's not worth wasting your time posting.

Another part of the problem is owners that don't understand tuning and the whole package of parts relationship.
Again, just asking because I don't know.

I started building this motor/cam based upon C3 group advice 4 or 5 years ago and then got side tracked with my C5. Now I basically want to go back to something very conservative without the race crap, like stall converters, and lopey cams, and big gas sucking carbs.

I need to buy a new cam package and want to get it right this time. Tired of working on an engine that has not left the garage due to hodge podge of upgrades that don't work well together.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 02:18 PM
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Right off of the crane cam card what does this say:

GOOD IDLE, PRIMARILY USED IN UP TO 350 HP NEAR-STOCK ENGINES FOR MILD PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS

Right off of the Comp cam 274 card what does this say:

Hydraulic-High performance street, very strong mid-range, with headers & 2500+ stall.

There is a point when you go down on duration where you have to look at what is called dynamic & static compression ratio. You find these calculators on the web. Remember these are not 100% true. They are rough est. They don't account for intake or combustions chamber design. You might come across a person called David Vizzard, well I rate him right in there with the Branch Davidians, David Koresh
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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George....you're typing too fast!

Remember...overlap occurs when there is NO compression going on..both valves are open. It doesn't do anything for cylinder pressure until you take into account *possible* cylinder filling advantages from scavenging effect.

If you have 10.3 compression...I'd be scared to dropping to a 213*@.050 cam on a 110 LSA. You will have big time cylinder pressure for sure. Without some timing controls..it's going to be tough.

If you are going *wife friendly* then the wider LSA will help a lot. I'd use the larger cam with a 112-114 LSA. That will close intake later, improve vacuum, idle better and still pull well on the top end.

Lift is always good....so don't give away power with a .500" lift cam.

JIM
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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Right off of the crane cam card what does this say:

GOOD IDLE, PRIMARILY USED IN UP TO 350 HP NEAR-STOCK ENGINES FOR MILD PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS
George - that same card says power starts at 2200 rpm - which makes me think I need something other than factory stall converter? Am I making a wrong assumption on that too?

This cam stuff is just something I can read and read and not quite understand because I don't have any practicle experience with it - so I appreciate evryone trying to help and suggest.

I had a 7162 Edelbrock in there to begin with and wiped a lobe on start up...so I went to the XE274 (with performance in mind) ..that goal has since changed

After forum comments checking on CR...everything I can find shows flat top notched pistons and closed chambered 101cc heads yielding about 9.5CR. I know the head were milled 10K, we have bigger valves, not sure on the block decking. Using a standad felpro 1037 gaskets at .039...so maybe I'm not at 10.3 like the machine shop said.

Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Jun 11, 2010 at 04:00 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 04:53 PM
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Originally Posted by 427Hotrod
George....you're typing too fast!

Remember...overlap occurs when there is NO compression going on..both valves are open. It doesn't do anything for cylinder pressure until you take into account *possible* cylinder filling advantages from scavenging effect.

If you have 10.3 compression...I'd be scared to dropping to a 213*@.050 cam on a 110 LSA. You will have big time cylinder pressure for sure. Without some timing controls..it's going to be tough.

If you are going *wife friendly* then the wider LSA will help a lot. I'd use the larger cam with a 112-114 LSA. That will close intake later, improve vacuum, idle better and still pull well on the top end.

Lift is always good....so don't give away power with a .500" lift cam.

JIM
Remember if you go over .500 you will need to change your rockers! Even though a cheap set can be picked up for around $200
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:53 PM
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Your fine with a stock converter, that just means the powerband starts to come on at that RPM, you'll have a relatively smooth idle that will not effect your off idle starts with a stock converter.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Hvymtlc5
George - that same card says power starts at 2200 rpm - which makes me think I need something other than factory stall converter? Am I making a wrong assumption on that too?
The cam card said ADVISED.BASIC RPM 2200-5200 To me basic is where it works with the most efficientcy. Much different than power. I looked up my old Crane solid roller cam ADVISED.BASIC RPM 3000-6500 and it could be floored with my OD auto tranny at 2000 rpm, but from 3000 or 3500 it would rev to over 7000 really fast in the first two gears.

Originally Posted by hugie82
Remember if you go over .500 you will need to change your rockers! Even though a cheap set can be picked up for around $200
Hugie82 - his cam in the motor in the first post is over .500 so his springs and rockers will be fine for a milder cam.

Last edited by gkull; Jun 11, 2010 at 07:51 PM.
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 07:43 PM
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.500 is NOT a dead set number. I've run well over that with stock rockers and no issues. You just have to check clearance. You can also get the stamped long slots from GM or others that work great.

I've run a .600/.620 cam with stock rockers. Now they did crack eventually.....but they lived a long time. Long slots would have lasted forever.



JIM
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Old Jun 11, 2010 | 09:32 PM
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I have to ask - why not leave the cam alone and see about quieting down the exhaust sound if you can...? My wife looks right past the nice paint and classic lines of my car and goes right to "it smells funny inside and it is so obnoxious..." Whose carpets have not been soaked a few times and had to air dry? As for obnoxious - alrighty then! It runs like a big block should for the street and that is high praise...

Bottom line I am inferring here that your wife would likely not want to drive or be in that thing even if it had a Northstar Caddy motor swapped in... Enjoy YOUR car !!!
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