CR and Cam Choice
explain to me how compression ratio affects cam choice. Is it so high that some needs to be bled off with overlap/durationI have a BBC with 10.35 CR. I currently have a Comp XE274H now and want to to go to a Lunati 60201 (256/262 213/219 .515"/.530" 112/108) to make the car more street friendly for my wife. I keep hearing with my compression I need "more cam"





Your present cam is 230/236 110 the Lunati you posted is 213/219
That is a radical change and your compression is too high for it. This crane cam will tone it down.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
Last edited by gkull; Jun 9, 2010 at 04:55 PM.





Your present cam is 230/236 110 the Lunati you posted is 213/219
That is a radical change and you compression is too high for it. This crane cam will tone it down.
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=brows...tType=camshaft
Yeah that cam is one step down and will run fine my problem is what problem are you having with the current cam ? That cam should run fine for anyone to run around town with 230/236 is mild for a big block.
Tell us what it runs like and what your wife doesn't like about it and maybe you don't even have to swap cams.
Again not clear on the compression issue...what is it about my current compression that makes the Lunati 6020 not a good choice (I guess I need to know how that will affect engine performance and drivability)???
So I need a cam with more duration to bleed off the compresson somewhat?
Mike
Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Jun 11, 2010 at 09:37 AM.





230/236 is actually a mild cam if the lobe sepperation is higher than 110 and the valve events are altered. But people gravitate to the all show and no go BS comp cams line up of XE cams. Only later in real life find out that they suck.
Another part of the problem is owners that don't understand tuning and the whole package of parts relationship.
Then I suggest dropping 8 degrees on the intake cam. Very major change especially since the lobe center also went to 112
Again not clear on the compression issue...what is it about my current compression that makes the Lunati 6020 not a good choice (I guess I need to know how that will affect engine performance and drivability)???
So I need a cam with more duration to bleed off the compresson somewhat?
Mike
He's also stating, the car will need a high stall speed converter, gearing, carb tuning and distributor tuning just to drive it!!!
I have learned over many years of screwing around that if you want a screamer/track car then go for it
BUT If you need a cruise night, cruise down the highway, take it to work kind of car then stay conservative!!!10 to 1 compression is nice if that's what you really have....I assume you need to run 91+octane and may have a ping every now & then... A mild cam wild be a nice improvement. I would keep it under 230 duration @.050
PS Anything over .500 lift you cannot use stock rocker arms, long slots are needed
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
We have an old school Comp 270h in my dads 9.8-1 461" and it has a nice idle, you can still hear a little lope...but not at all choppy. It makes power right off idle with the Performer intake and is very docile, torquey....it's in a 4200lb 69' Grand Prix with a 4sp and the car is a dream to drive....at least for a cruiser...cam has been in that motor 20 yrs.
Ofcourse there is much better cams out today that make way more power but if you wanted something mild, can run stock converter and exh manifold etc, I think the 270h is still a good one... We have never had any pinging in this one running 36* total but do not run vacuum advance.
Another part of the problem is owners that don't understand tuning and the whole package of parts relationship.
I started building this motor/cam based upon C3 group advice 4 or 5 years ago and then got side tracked with my C5. Now I basically want to go back to something very conservative without the race crap, like stall converters, and lopey cams, and big gas sucking carbs.
I need to buy a new cam package and want to get it right this time. Tired of working on an engine that has not left the garage due to hodge podge of upgrades that don't work well together.





GOOD IDLE, PRIMARILY USED IN UP TO 350 HP NEAR-STOCK ENGINES FOR MILD PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS
Right off of the Comp cam 274 card what does this say:
Hydraulic-High performance street, very strong mid-range, with headers & 2500+ stall.
There is a point when you go down on duration where you have to look at what is called dynamic & static compression ratio. You find these calculators on the web. Remember these are not 100% true. They are rough est. They don't account for intake or combustions chamber design. You might come across a person called David Vizzard, well I rate him right in there with the Branch Davidians, David Koresh





Remember...overlap occurs when there is NO compression going on..both valves are open. It doesn't do anything for cylinder pressure until you take into account *possible* cylinder filling advantages from scavenging effect.
If you have 10.3 compression...I'd be scared to dropping to a 213*@.050 cam on a 110 LSA. You will have big time cylinder pressure for sure. Without some timing controls..it's going to be tough.
If you are going *wife friendly* then the wider LSA will help a lot. I'd use the larger cam with a 112-114 LSA. That will close intake later, improve vacuum, idle better and still pull well on the top end.
Lift is always good....so don't give away power with a .500" lift cam.
JIM
GOOD IDLE, PRIMARILY USED IN UP TO 350 HP NEAR-STOCK ENGINES FOR MILD PERFORMANCE APPLICATIONS
This cam stuff is just something I can read and read and not quite understand because I don't have any practicle experience with it - so I appreciate evryone trying to help and suggest.
I had a 7162 Edelbrock in there to begin with and wiped a lobe on start up...so I went to the XE274 (with performance in mind) ..that goal has since changed
After forum comments checking on CR...everything I can find shows flat top notched pistons and closed chambered 101cc heads yielding about 9.5CR. I know the head were milled 10K, we have bigger valves, not sure on the block decking. Using a standad felpro 1037 gaskets at .039...so maybe I'm not at 10.3 like the machine shop said.
Last edited by Hvymtlc5; Jun 11, 2010 at 04:00 PM.
Remember...overlap occurs when there is NO compression going on..both valves are open. It doesn't do anything for cylinder pressure until you take into account *possible* cylinder filling advantages from scavenging effect.
If you have 10.3 compression...I'd be scared to dropping to a 213*@.050 cam on a 110 LSA. You will have big time cylinder pressure for sure. Without some timing controls..it's going to be tough.
If you are going *wife friendly* then the wider LSA will help a lot. I'd use the larger cam with a 112-114 LSA. That will close intake later, improve vacuum, idle better and still pull well on the top end.
Lift is always good....so don't give away power with a .500" lift cam.
JIM
if you go over .500 you will need to change your rockers! Even though a cheap set can be picked up for around $200





Hugie82 - his cam in the motor in the first post is over .500 so his springs and rockers will be fine for a milder cam.
Last edited by gkull; Jun 11, 2010 at 07:51 PM.





I've run a .600/.620 cam with stock rockers. Now they did crack eventually.....but they lived a long time. Long slots would have lasted forever.
JIM
Bottom line I am inferring here that your wife would likely not want to drive or be in that thing even if it had a Northstar Caddy motor swapped in... Enjoy YOUR car !!!












