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Still no lights? Then by pass the headlight rheostat by Jumping from the courtesy fuse to the inst fuse, in the bulbs light then the rheostat is bad.
Either I'm not doing it correctly or I'm missing something. I'm really sorry if I'm annoying with this.
So I tried jumping (with a small wire) from the courtesy (which maybe I'm mixing the the symbols?) to the 5A socket with the fuses still in.
Questions:
Should I take out the fuses when I do the jumping?
With or without fuses, wouldn't I burn something jumping a wire from a circuit that uses more current to a circuit using less?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Hi again.
A few questions,
did your dash lights ever work?
For the dash lights to work they need a ground.
A Black wire goes from the water temp gauge to the tach and speedo and is attached to the 'A' pillar just above the bottom of the left side dash.
Pulling the light switch to the first or second click sends power the the 'tail light' fuse and the 'tail light' fuse sends power to the 'instrument' fuse. Test that both fuses are good by probing the 'Clips' that hold the fuse on both the left and right side.
I was having a similar problem with the dash lights not working, it was just my instrument panel fuse. My question is, the owners manual says it should be 5 amp, another thread said the electrical diagrams says it should be 6 amp and the one that I pulled out said it was a 4 amp. Does anyone know for sure which one I should replace it with?
2025 c3 ('74-'82) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C3 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)
Originally Posted by Punkchachi
I was having a similar problem with the dash lights not working, it was just my instrument panel fuse. My question is, the owners manual says it should be 5 amp, another thread said the electrical diagrams says it should be 6 amp and the one that I pulled out said it was a 4 amp. Does anyone know for sure which one I should replace it with?
