T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions
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Team Owner
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From: Ontario
T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions
I received this bolt kit yesterday from a reputable USA vendor. I already have the SS shims to go with the kit. Assuming that I can get the old bolts off, what lubricant do I use on the new mounting bolts? Also I was disappointed that the long shim cotter pins were not included. Never assume anything!! If anyone has access to a set of those pins and can mail them to me, please contact me by e-mail. This cross-border purchasing is so damn expensive. The vendor wants $15.00US to send??? I would imagine they would fit into a letter-size envelope at a mail cost of $1.00.
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From: Connecticut, USA
Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Paul I'm going to use "never seize" on the bolts so they don't rustinside the sleeve. Can't you find the cotter pins up there from an industrial bearing supplier? Have you got a flaring tool for the new sleeves?
Gary
Gary
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Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (gtr1999)
Gary,
Don't give me more misery ;) . There is 8" of snow coming down. What do I have to flare?
*Edit*-I do not know the size of the cotter pin. But I would imagine that it is available locally. Perhaps even GM Canada.
[Modified by paul79, 4:38 PM 3/21/2002]
Don't give me more misery ;) . There is 8" of snow coming down. What do I have to flare?
*Edit*-I do not know the size of the cotter pin. But I would imagine that it is available locally. Perhaps even GM Canada.
[Modified by paul79, 4:38 PM 3/21/2002]
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Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Well, leave the snow up there, it's 50 here today and Sunny :lol:
Anyway the picture yu have looks like you bought the stock rubber bushings for the T Arms? If so then you have to flare over the end of the sleeve after putting them in the arm. Take a look at the GM service manual, it should show you a fancy fixture/tool to do this. The vendor catalogs have them too. If you're in a club maybe someone has one. I made one up out of steel plates. The flare is a 45* so I have 2 plates that match and bolt together. This will hold the bushings compressed in place. In the center of each I tapped them for a 3/4" bolt. I turned 2 large Allen head bolts down with 45* chamfers on them.The end of each bolt is turned to the ID of the sleeve to support it. Then I center the bushings over the bolts and tighten them up to flare the open end. Some have used a bolt and lug nut to flare them,other have used a 45* hand flare to hammer them. But you have to flare them anyway you look at it. I think the polys are different, but I've never used them.
Gary
Anyway the picture yu have looks like you bought the stock rubber bushings for the T Arms? If so then you have to flare over the end of the sleeve after putting them in the arm. Take a look at the GM service manual, it should show you a fancy fixture/tool to do this. The vendor catalogs have them too. If you're in a club maybe someone has one. I made one up out of steel plates. The flare is a 45* so I have 2 plates that match and bolt together. This will hold the bushings compressed in place. In the center of each I tapped them for a 3/4" bolt. I turned 2 large Allen head bolts down with 45* chamfers on them.The end of each bolt is turned to the ID of the sleeve to support it. Then I center the bushings over the bolts and tighten them up to flare the open end. Some have used a bolt and lug nut to flare them,other have used a 45* hand flare to hammer them. But you have to flare them anyway you look at it. I think the polys are different, but I've never used them.
Gary
Safety Car
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From: Florham Park NJ Port Credit Ontario
Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Paul,
I feel your pain. I am originally from Mississauga and now live in Ohio. I have learned that whenever my Parents need something from the states they have it sent to me and I bring it with me when I visit. Saved them big $$$ over the years. Incidently, I've got a hockey tournament in Mississauga the end of April. Drop me an e-mail if I can help you out.
Also, I believe the long pins should have come with the SS shims. Mine did.
Stew. :cheers:
PS. I used copious amounts of Marine Grease on all undercar/suspension components. It wont wash away and will last a very long time.
[Modified by Stewart's74, 3:48 PM 3/21/2002]
I feel your pain. I am originally from Mississauga and now live in Ohio. I have learned that whenever my Parents need something from the states they have it sent to me and I bring it with me when I visit. Saved them big $$$ over the years. Incidently, I've got a hockey tournament in Mississauga the end of April. Drop me an e-mail if I can help you out.
Also, I believe the long pins should have come with the SS shims. Mine did.
Stew. :cheers:
PS. I used copious amounts of Marine Grease on all undercar/suspension components. It wont wash away and will last a very long time.
[Modified by Stewart's74, 3:48 PM 3/21/2002]
Thread Starter
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From: Ontario
Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (gtr1999)
Yes, they are rubber. I will have to get advice from the local Corvette Club members on this. I thought it was a bolt-on. Time to light the fireplace. My Corvette was supposed to come out out storage on Easter Friday for a show???
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From: Clifton Park NY
Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Thanks Barry. That must be standard industrial hardware. Not a "Corvette" part ;).
BTW, when I bought these things the cotter pins came with the shim kit, and not with the bushing kit.
-Pedro
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Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Paul, here is the update. The only pin available that was close was a 1/4" x 4 1/2" so that is no good. Couldn't find anything long & thin.
So here is what I did. I took a 3/16" 308 stainless steel welding rod & cut 2 6" sections off of it. I cut threads 1/2" long and added nylon locking nuts to each end & hit the rod with a wire wheel to make it pretty.
This would be functional (but a tad long) & would suffice until you get the real deal. It will for sure keep you from dumping your shims out on the road.
So they are yours if you want them. If not I will put them in the emergency Bubba drawer.
Another Bubba Fix by EdT :lol:
So here is what I did. I took a 3/16" 308 stainless steel welding rod & cut 2 6" sections off of it. I cut threads 1/2" long and added nylon locking nuts to each end & hit the rod with a wire wheel to make it pretty.
This would be functional (but a tad long) & would suffice until you get the real deal. It will for sure keep you from dumping your shims out on the road.
So they are yours if you want them. If not I will put them in the emergency Bubba drawer.
Another Bubba Fix by EdT :lol:
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From: Ontario
Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (Ed T)
Ed, that is very generous!!! Sounds better than stock. Send me an e-mail for my address. Many thanks. Love the Forum Folks like you :) .
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Re: T/A Bolt Kit Received. Questions (paul79)
Cotta pin??? how about a nail??? or a nut and bolt from the stainless rack in a hardware store..??? works fine....
only thing I mostly use for a cotta pin is a nail, bent over, #4 common works fine most of the time....
no special trips to the store...in stock all the time.... :D
only thing I mostly use for a cotta pin is a nail, bent over, #4 common works fine most of the time....
no special trips to the store...in stock all the time.... :D