VancouverMark

I am going to be installing my headers this weekend and wondering if there are any tips to safely remove my Ram Horn Manifolds...heat? penetrating oil? And any tricks for the instal of the new headers? Tricks with the gaskets? I am using th new Remflex Gaskets. I have header bolts, should I use lock washers? Torque specs?

C3 4ME

First you should have already been soaking the bolts with PB Blaster or the like. I'd soak every one real good every day for a week ahead of time. I've removed and installed my headers and it wasn't that hard. I have a 79 (small block of course) 4 spd. I had to remove the starter and on the driver's side, the clutch Z bar and one spark plug if I remember right. Both sides went in from underneath.

FRSTR90

There's really nothing to it.. unbolt your exhaust then unbolt the ram horns. It probably wouldn't hurt to hit it with some penetrating oil the night before. When installing the headers , I put anti-seize on the bolts, put the 2 outer most bolt in first, slide the gasket in, snug those 2 bolts, put the rest of the bolts in, then tighten all of the bolts.

Header bolts are usually included with the headers.. if they come with washers use them. if not, then leave them out. Some bolts are designed not to be used with washers.

Torque spec I believe is 20 ft-lb.

MotorHead

Soak the old rams horn bolts in penetrating oil. The new headers go in from the bottom. I have an '80 and after I jack the passenger side up a bit there is one angle that usually takes me a few minutes to find where the headers will fit in without taking the starter off.

If it's your first time and can't find this angle, where the header is almost vertical, then take the starter out. Remember to just get the two end end header bolts threaded a few threads then put the starter in, this way you will have more room as you can swing the header out an inch or two.

Also remember these headers ain't gonna hookup to you existing exhaust. If you know how to weld it's non issue but if not you might have to fab up a piece of flex pipe to get it to the muffler shop, some have done it with open headers and knowing how on the ball the RCMP are out there and exactly where you live you could probably do that no problems. If you work for the RCMP I was only kidding

VancouverMark

Hahahahaha, nope I am no RCMP !
I forgot to mention I have a garage with a Pit !!! (it's my Father inlaws) I have the reducers which I hope to be able to make a coupler to fit the existing pipes. Changing out the mufflers to Magnaflows. keeping the piping since it is only a year or two old

SPD151

I installed the Hooker Super Comps on my 75 and ended up having an issue with the rag joint on the steering hitting the headers. This was really the only thing I ran into however.

tfi racing

Chances of getting a torque wrench on most of those bolts is slim to none,jsut try to be as consistent as possible...You will be re-tightening them a few times after the first few heating cycles,a good trick is to sacrifice one of your shorter 7/16 wrenches by grinding the metal on the closed end thinner so it will clear the tighter tube/bolt areas.As MH noted,put the two end bolts in loosely,most gaskets are notched so that those two bolts will hold it in place as you try to get the rest of the bolts in.

toddalin

I hope you have a lift.

VancouverMark

Even better, I have a full length pit! With lights and power!

glen242

I have used Stage 8 locking bolts on my small block, with headers, for about 7 years on the 350 and about 4 years on the 383.

Never had a bolt loosen up or an exhaust gasket blow.

I use FelPro gaskets.