My 73 coupe is doing fine but my daily driver silverado ign switch sometimes wants to stay in locked position .New switch is in order .Do i have to remove the steeri ng wheel .Im sure this is the same switch as vettes on the column or at least the same proceedure.Help

 

If your pickup has the ignition key sticking out of the right side of your steering column, then it is very similar to the Corvette steering column of that era. The reason I make this statement is that I am very familiar with the Corvette steering parts for that time frame. However, the GM pickup trucks didn't always introduce locking columns (and other features) at the same time as GM passenger cars.

One other thing, I think you are refering to the ignition lock cylinder that is sticking out of the right side of your steering column housing. The ignition switch is mounted on top of the steering column down under the dash. The switch is actuated by a rod that moves when you rotate your lock cylinder.

Make sure you disconnect your battery before working on the column.

To remove the lock cylinder you will have to remove the steering wheel, remove the lock plate, and pull the turn signal switch up and out of the way. Place the cylinder in the RUN position and now you will be able to reach into the rectangular slot in the column head and depress the locking wedge that is part of the lock cylinder. You should now be able to pull the lock cylinder straight out of the column head.

New lock cylinders are available from any GM dealer as well as many automotive parts stores.

If you consider that a Corvette T&T column is just a glorified tilt column you should be able to use my steering column disassembly papers that I have posted at http://www.corvettefaq.com. Look under Suspension and Steering. There are several papers and pictures that should help you. If you have a standard (non-adjustable) column the Corvette standard column papers at that same sight should also be very similar to your column.

If I can be of further assistance, you can eMail me or post your questions right here.

 

Thanks JIM WOW that was thorough. THanks again

 

My key was sticking in the lock and sometimes I couldn't get it move. It was JUST a worn key!!! It looked good to me but to a loksmith it looked bad. He made me new keys from the code and it is perfect. A lot easier than changing the ignition switch. :cheers:

 

LISTEN UP! When Jim Shea talks about steering columns, he KNOWS what he is talking about. He may be a little too modest for us and doesn't want to toot his own horn, but Jim is recently retired from the Saginaw steering division. Yeah, you know it! They made our steering columns. Jim is the guru of steering and helped me solve a problem with the key buzzer on my 72. Take his advice and you will not have problems.

Btw, when it comes to pulling the steering column and lock cylinder, I would encourage you to do two things. #1 - use your GM Service Manual #2 - take digital photos or good notes so that the reassembly isn't a "where does this go?". Finally, if you decide to replace the ignition cylinder, the GM Service Manual tells you to use a piece of stiff wire to pull the plastic key buzzer out. I didn't have wire stiff enough to remove that stubborn switch. Since this switch is nothing more than two pieces of copper strip held in a fragile plastic housing, I didn't want to break it. I "encouraged" it to come out using a dental pick. Once that is out, the GM manual is very descriptive on removing the cylinder. As a final note, my local locksmith shop carries these cylinders and they are identical to the one in my car. Somewhere around $35 for the cylinder and $20+ to rekey it to my key.

Gary

 

Couldn't get Jim's link to work, but I might add that there is a special "U" shaped "tool" used to compress the lock plate to make it easier to get out. I had a friend, with the tool, come to the house to help me remove mine a year or so ago. The correct tool made the job easy. Chuck

 

You don't say what year your Silverado is, but if the key looks simular to your vet key, the info you have so far is god. If however, it's a doublesided key known as a "10 cut", your in a hole nother ball park. If this is the case, repost and I'll see if I can guide you through that one.
Good luck.
Bill http://www.locksmithasap.com

 

I forgot a few things. In the instructions that you have so far, I might add some info. If the cylinder retainer is of the type discribed, the Piece your suppose to push is originally covered by a thin skin of the cast metal it is made from. It could appear as an indention on the side of the cylinder and must be punctured with a tool like a small screw driver blade or such, then depressed as discribed. If it's been out before, this will already be done and you will see the wafer your suppose to push.
Another possability is that your truck is slighty newer and will be retained by a screw. If after moving the turnsignal platform out of the way you see a TORX headed screw (on some transition years it may not be a TORX head)that appears to pass just below centerline of the lock cylinder, you have a screw retained lock rather than the discussed spring retained cylinder. You have to remove the screw to pull the lock out and it makes no difference what position the lock is in. "Locked" position is best to aid in reassembly. With the screw removal, you will probably have a piece fall out that looks like a little plastic box with a flat spring. This is the switch that makes that "buzz" if you leave your key in the ignition, off. On reassembly, just ensure it is in place and work the head of the TORX screw around it. It should be a pain, but obvious. The tool mentioned is worth the money. I see them all the time in parts stores for about $15.00. Also, getting a key cut from code is always a good ideal. Never waste a good exact-replacement key blank on your older Vette by duplicating your worn key onto it. It has always amased me to see guys spend time and money to search for original key blanks, then take them to the local department store or hardware store and have some kid copy their old worn key on to it. Spend the few bucks to have it recut to factory specs by a compotent locksmith. Of course this costs more because it involves some research, setup and milling maching type cutting.
One thought on the new cylinder, which may or may not be of any importance to you. When you walk into a parts store or GM and buy an over-the-counter replacement, it's going to be with a set of keys completely differant than what you had. If you would like to get a new cylinder to match with the original key cuts, like,,, to match the doors or glove box, or to just stay original, a locksmith will build you one with the matching code to your original key. Usually just little more than off-the-shelf cylinders.
Again, good luck.

 

My ing lock could not be turned to the acc position was going to replace it.Locksmith came over to do the job{ was lazy and had some OT} anyway he looked at it made a new key on the spot everything works correctly after that. It seems my key was a copy of a copy so mant times that it was not even close anymore just my .02