ammeter operation 1968
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Last edited by ...Roger...; Jul 20, 2010 at 08:51 AM. Reason: spelling
Race Director
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 10,052
Likes: 678
From: FL
Thanks for your input, I do have a question that you may be able to answer. When I bought the car it had been rewired using a Painless system and the horn relay is no longer where it used to be it is now inside the car by the new fuse box, any thoughts on how to check proper wiring to the ammeter? Thanks
1) Replace the harness with a stock one.
2) Replace the ammeter with a voltmeter
3) Replace the ammeter with an aftermarket ammeter designed to take the loads.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Just wanted to say a quick thanks Roger, your guidance was excellent again!
I went into the garage last night to look for the horn relay, and found it in about 2 seconds based on your description. Of course, as usual, it generated many more questions than it answered. It looks a little like the picture you posted, except the black fusible link attached to the red wire connected to the right side, and not the left. There was another wire that had an in-line fuse (so I removed the fuse, tested the continuity, it was good, so I cleaned the contacts and re-installed. I disconnected the wire with the fusible link, and tried to test the link, which seemed good. I re-installed the link, and the battery gauge returned to normal operation.
So, the bottom line is my gauge is working normally again. But I was wondering about the fusible link. I have never changed one before, and there didn't seem to be a straight forward way to do it. Do you just cut the link off, and splice in a new one?
Also, there was a connector there that wasn't connected to anything, and I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what that was. I wanted to get a picture and post it, but I need help to do that and help had already gone to bed. I will try to get a picture tonight.
I went into the garage last night to look for the horn relay, and found it in about 2 seconds based on your description. Of course, as usual, it generated many more questions than it answered. It looks a little like the picture you posted, except the black fusible link attached to the red wire connected to the right side, and not the left. There was another wire that had an in-line fuse (so I removed the fuse, tested the continuity, it was good, so I cleaned the contacts and re-installed. I disconnected the wire with the fusible link, and tried to test the link, which seemed good. I re-installed the link, and the battery gauge returned to normal operation.
So, the bottom line is my gauge is working normally again. But I was wondering about the fusible link. I have never changed one before, and there didn't seem to be a straight forward way to do it. Do you just cut the link off, and splice in a new one?
Also, there was a connector there that wasn't connected to anything, and I was wondering if anyone could help me figure out what that was. I wanted to get a picture and post it, but I need help to do that and help had already gone to bed. I will try to get a picture tonight.
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Your fuse should be for the AC blower. If you have power windows you will have another red wire.What color of wire is on the connector that is not connected to anything ?
I think you can have around 5 hot wires at the relay,orange,black,3 heavy reds and a couple small wires for the horn, ground and key buzzer.
On the fusible replacement. The wire is the burnable part, inside the large round plastic is just a crimp connector,just cut and crimp in a new length of fusible link wire.
I think you can have around 5 hot wires at the relay,orange,black,3 heavy reds and a couple small wires for the horn, ground and key buzzer.
On the fusible replacement. The wire is the burnable part, inside the large round plastic is just a crimp connector,just cut and crimp in a new length of fusible link wire.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 9,192
Likes: 27
From: Boca Raton Florida
Uh-Oh .... Hey Sixfooter I have to apologize because I think you ask me to look at the diagram a long time ago when you made it and I know I should have caught it then but I just found an error. Sorry. :o
Look at the 16 black fusible link coming from the horn relay , it doesn't tie into the 10 red going to the starter it goes to the bulkhead connector and supply's the cabin with power. Again I'm sorry I didn't catch this sooner.
Look at the 16 black fusible link coming from the horn relay , it doesn't tie into the 10 red going to the starter it goes to the bulkhead connector and supply's the cabin with power. Again I'm sorry I didn't catch this sooner.
Thanks Roger
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
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From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
Sorry this took so long, but Imageshack seems to be doing me wrong right now. I opened a new photobucket account, and it seems to work a little differently, but here goes:
It's not the greatest picture, but it's the only one that had everything I wanted it to show. The thick red wire on the left is the one with the in-line fuse. The orangy wire which connects to the black wire via the fusible link is the one I disconnected and then re-connected and the battery gauge returned to normal operation. You can see the connector hanging out in space there, the wire connected to it is really grungy, but appears to be a thin red wire with a black stripe.
Any guidance is appreciated.
PK
It's not the greatest picture, but it's the only one that had everything I wanted it to show. The thick red wire on the left is the one with the in-line fuse. The orangy wire which connects to the black wire via the fusible link is the one I disconnected and then re-connected and the battery gauge returned to normal operation. You can see the connector hanging out in space there, the wire connected to it is really grungy, but appears to be a thin red wire with a black stripe.
Any guidance is appreciated.
PK
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
And you know, my key buzzer doesn't work!
Taking a closer look at my own picture, it appears there is an empty spade on the left that I didn't notice before. Maybe I'll give that a shot!
Thanks again!
PK
Taking a closer look at my own picture, it appears there is an empty spade on the left that I didn't notice before. Maybe I'll give that a shot!
Thanks again!
PK
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2009
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From: Anderson SC
I want to add it to my saved stuff.
-W
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
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From: Dayton, Ohio
Your relay might be a little different but I would think it should plug in just behind where the orange attaches.
You should have a green for the horns , black for ground and pink/black for the buzzer.
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 23,419
Likes: 22
From: In limbo
St. Jude Donor '13-'15, '17 thru '22
I received my vacuum pump from Harbor Freight today. On Sunday I am planning on setting up the "Roger approved" pump/T/gauge arrangement to start the diagnosis on my vacuum leak that occurred last year. It's about time I got to it, since I have to pass emissions next month if I want to drive as I please. There is nothing like waiting until the last minute...
Last edited by Derrick Reynolds; Jul 23, 2010 at 09:50 PM.
