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Start by hooking up an ammeter gauge between the battery terminal and the battery cable. You will most likely see a current reading on the gauge. Then you have to pull 1 fuse at a time from the fuse block until you see the reading change. After you have identified the basic circuit you can then trace each component on a wiring diagram and unhook each component until the drain is identified.
Start by hooking up an ammeter gauge between the battery terminal and the battery cable. You will most likely see a current reading on the gauge. Then you have to pull 1 fuse at a time from the fuse block until you see the reading change. After you have identified the basic circuit you can then trace each component on a wiring diagram and unhook each component until the drain is identified.
I had this problem with my '72 for the first 2.5 years I owned it. I went through the fuse pulling method to no avail. I used a test light between the battery cable and the battery and after all fuses had been pulled and put back in, none of them shut the light off.
Then this spring I decided to have the alternator tested and it tested fine. I took it to be restored and upgraded to 100 amps to support the 1400 watt stereo I installed and low and behold, no more battery drain.
Even though it tested fine, it was bad. I no longer have to use the battery tender to keep the battery up.
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