tips for Power Steering Conversion
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 384
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa OK
tips for Power Steering Conversion
I'm installing a power steering conversion kit form MidAmerica on my 68 with original manual steering.
The price was good and components were decent quality. However, I was surprised by the lack of step by step instructions with the kit. A couple of separate printouts were placed in various boxed components, but the instructions essentially were a series of diagrams, of poor quality to see detail, and no sequencing or tips.
It took me the bette part of a day to do put on the pump, brackets and belt (which I had to buy at Autozone).
There were very definite issues with sequence of installation to allow the pump to fit and be attached properly. One big issue is that I initially installed the pump pulley backwards and it wouldn't line up to the crank pulley. I was thinking I would need spacers or a different crank pulley before finally realizing that reversing the pump pulley fixed everything including fitment issues.
Now I will begin to disassemble the steering-- pitman arm, relay rod, damper, frame bracket, and finally fill with fluid, and adjust as necessary.
Any tips from those who have done this?
Sequence, pitfalls, proper method to adjust?
thanks
Fred
The price was good and components were decent quality. However, I was surprised by the lack of step by step instructions with the kit. A couple of separate printouts were placed in various boxed components, but the instructions essentially were a series of diagrams, of poor quality to see detail, and no sequencing or tips.
It took me the bette part of a day to do put on the pump, brackets and belt (which I had to buy at Autozone).
There were very definite issues with sequence of installation to allow the pump to fit and be attached properly. One big issue is that I initially installed the pump pulley backwards and it wouldn't line up to the crank pulley. I was thinking I would need spacers or a different crank pulley before finally realizing that reversing the pump pulley fixed everything including fitment issues.
Now I will begin to disassemble the steering-- pitman arm, relay rod, damper, frame bracket, and finally fill with fluid, and adjust as necessary.
Any tips from those who have done this?
Sequence, pitfalls, proper method to adjust?
thanks
Fred
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
I installed the same kit on my 72 BB (kit from Corvette Central). Instructions I received (or didn't received) sucked also.
I found after the install that I had very nice PS but it was a bit quick.
Months later a bud on the Florida forum said "Ken, did you move the steering arms from the rear steering Knuckle hole to the front one"? To which I responded WTF? Turns out manual steering goes in the rear holes but PS units utilize the front holes.
Hope this helps a bit.:o
I found after the install that I had very nice PS but it was a bit quick.
Months later a bud on the Florida forum said "Ken, did you move the steering arms from the rear steering Knuckle hole to the front one"? To which I responded WTF? Turns out manual steering goes in the rear holes but PS units utilize the front holes.
Hope this helps a bit.:o
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 384
Likes: 2
From: Tulsa OK
Thanks Kap,
The problem I have now is the idler arm.
I have everything else disconnected. I tried to pull the idler arm off its bolt/spindle with the pitman arm puller but it won't budge.
I looked at the new power steering relay rod and it looks like the idler arm bolt hole has a "reverse" taper, such that pulling it off will only make it wedge tighter. Seems odd.
Any tips on removing the relay rod from the idler arm?
The problem I have now is the idler arm.
I have everything else disconnected. I tried to pull the idler arm off its bolt/spindle with the pitman arm puller but it won't budge.
I looked at the new power steering relay rod and it looks like the idler arm bolt hole has a "reverse" taper, such that pulling it off will only make it wedge tighter. Seems odd.
Any tips on removing the relay rod from the idler arm?
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 225
Likes: 0
From: Auburndale Florida
If I remember correctly it's just pressed in very tightly. I ended up going to the local auto parts store who rents tools and picked up a press that did the job. Very similat to a gear puller. I do remember when it popped loose it was a heck of a pop but the new arm easily goes back in.
