electrical issue i can't figure out HELP!!!
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
Unless you carry a fire extinguisher....PLEASE replace the wire AND connector coming off the Alt and cover w/ a rubber boot!!! If its cracking and the insulator is crumbling in several places-the whole rest of the wire is next. It IS an issue!!!!!
Electrical tape? Great idea- stuff gets hot (right next to an engine)-unravels- flopping around next to spinning objects and gets yanked off as the wire gets pulled and shorted to the Alt case. I've seen it happen....
Might as well drive around w/ a fuel line that has cracks in it as well....But make sure to wrap it with electrical tape.....
Richard
Electrical tape? Great idea- stuff gets hot (right next to an engine)-unravels- flopping around next to spinning objects and gets yanked off as the wire gets pulled and shorted to the Alt case. I've seen it happen....
Might as well drive around w/ a fuel line that has cracks in it as well....But make sure to wrap it with electrical tape.....
Richard
.... I'll put a cap on the stud but talk about a bomb......jeeze.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 199
Likes: 0
thanks for the concern there as i stated in the very first post that all the bubba splicing was gonna get fixed but i would like to figure out my ALT issue before i start hacking and replacing wiring and redoing the wrap on it..
OK so now heres what i found roger i believe you stated the ALT should send 12 volts back to the brown line and that shuts off the light right?
If that is correct i got out the good old tester and started poking around and testing everything i could. the hot side IGNition side of the light sends 12v to the ALT then if i pull the plug from the console and test the brown wire with the car running it only has .65 volts this is the same if probed right at the white plug coming from the ALT. now i am figuring that the jumper test turns out the light because its sending a full 12v back up the line to the light direct from the BAT terminal from the the jumped test light. which in case stops the grounding action of when the igntion is turned on by sending 12v back and canceling the grounded circut.
Does this sound correct and if so i do believe the feild sending side of the voltage reg. is bad its producing on the charging side but not on the gauge/light side.
and if this is so where does the amp gauge get it's info from to read that it's charging?
OK so now heres what i found roger i believe you stated the ALT should send 12 volts back to the brown line and that shuts off the light right?
If that is correct i got out the good old tester and started poking around and testing everything i could. the hot side IGNition side of the light sends 12v to the ALT then if i pull the plug from the console and test the brown wire with the car running it only has .65 volts this is the same if probed right at the white plug coming from the ALT. now i am figuring that the jumper test turns out the light because its sending a full 12v back up the line to the light direct from the BAT terminal from the the jumped test light. which in case stops the grounding action of when the igntion is turned on by sending 12v back and canceling the grounded circut.
Does this sound correct and if so i do believe the feild sending side of the voltage reg. is bad its producing on the charging side but not on the gauge/light side.
and if this is so where does the amp gauge get it's info from to read that it's charging?
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 229
Likes: 2
From: Grants Pass Oregon
Not sure why the light is coming on. It functions just like the test light.
The dash GEN light has 12v on one side and the brown wire from the white plug on the other.
Grounding of the brown at the alternator should turn the light on,when the brown wire receives 12v from the alt the dash light should go off.
Other than the GAUGES fuse and ground there is not much in common between the GEN light and the Voltmeter.
I have a feeling your going to be removing the center cluster and looking for some of the thin copper contacts on the large connector to be folded over.
Sorry thats about all I can think of.
The dash GEN light has 12v on one side and the brown wire from the white plug on the other.
Grounding of the brown at the alternator should turn the light on,when the brown wire receives 12v from the alt the dash light should go off.
Other than the GAUGES fuse and ground there is not much in common between the GEN light and the Voltmeter.
I have a feeling your going to be removing the center cluster and looking for some of the thin copper contacts on the large connector to be folded over.
Sorry thats about all I can think of.
Ken
Race Director
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 16,528
Likes: 53
From: Dayton, Ohio
edit- if you unplug the connector at the alt does the Gen light go out ?
Last edited by ...Roger...; Nov 8, 2010 at 02:20 PM.
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 199
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78 if your having the same issue i am thta the alt is charging but gen light still stays on just replace the alt period. that cured my issue its something in either the diodes or the bridge or voltage reg. Not sure exactly which one as my diode tree and voltage reg tested fine in the alt test from autozone. But their test are basic and basic meaning if your alt charges its passes their testing machine. the diodes need to be tested ina special way using freqency and testing of their vibrations. that goes bad that does not allow the alt to unground the gen light. This from alot of testing and probing is what i found the alt grounds out if bad by a diode allowing the current to complete a circute bringing the light on. when the diodes are working properly it send a 12v current back up the brown wire in sense cancleing out the circut turning the light off. when the alt cant feed that current steady you get the dim or a gen light on.
in sense rogers test works by forcing the circut closed by jumping over to the main 12v return lead to send 12v back up the line and cancel out the circut.
in sense rogers test works by forcing the circut closed by jumping over to the main 12v return lead to send 12v back up the line and cancel out the circut.
Last edited by elke_10; Nov 8, 2010 at 02:25 PM.
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 229
Likes: 2
From: Grants Pass Oregon
Instructor
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 229
Likes: 2
From: Grants Pass Oregon
78 if your having the same issue i am thta the alt is charging but gen light still stays on just replace the alt period. that cured my issue its something in either the diodes or the bridge or voltage reg. Not sure exactly which one as my diode tree and voltage reg tested fine in the alt test from autozone. But their test are basic and basic meaning if your alt charges its passes their testing machine. the diodes need to be tested ina special way using freqency and testing of their vibrations. that goes bad that does not allow the alt to unground the gen light. This from alot of testing and probing is what i found the alt grounds out if bad by a diode allowing the current to complete a circute bringing the light on. when the diodes are working properly it send a 12v current back up the brown wire in sense cancleing out the circut turning the light off. when the alt cant feed that current steady you get the dim or a gen light on.
in sense rogers test works by forcing the circut closed by jumping over to the main 12v return lead to send 12v back up the line and cancel out the circut.
in sense rogers test works by forcing the circut closed by jumping over to the main 12v return lead to send 12v back up the line and cancel out the circut.
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