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Short Block Assembly ?

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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 11:51 AM
  #1  
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Default Short Block Assembly ?

I would like to build a 427 using a new dart block and ballanced forged internals. My intended goal is a small block with 525 HP and 525 TQ under 6000 RPM. It will never see a drag strip as long as I own it and will likely not see 6000 RPM since I don't push my engine that hard.
My question is; Can I but a block and internals and assemble the parts without spending extra money to have the block checked and other mechine work done?
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:34 PM
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You need to ask Dart this question. But i wouldn't trust anything.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by bashcraft
You need to ask Dart this question. But i wouldn't trust anything.

Better call and make sure. They'll be able to tell you everything you need.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 01:40 PM
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If You can put a motor together it can be done but no matter what anyone tells You, You will have to go through at least one dry assembly. To check for clearences, such as piston skirts to counter weights. NEVER cut a piston skirt by the way. Also connecting rod caps and bolts to cylinder walls at the bottom, it is ok to notch cylinder walls if You don't go crazy ONLY at the bottom. Also rod caps to cam lobes, they shouldn't be an issue but they are close enough in a stroker engine that You need to check. The rest is Your normal assembly checks. If You do this post pics I love seeing motors go together.I wish I had the money to do that in My car when I built the motor.I hope Your building up the car to take that kind of power?
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 01:59 PM
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It seems like you are spending money for the power you are not going to use but want to save money in the area that will give you longevity?
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 02:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Tom Sarno
It seems like you are spending money for the power you are not going to use but want to save money in the area that will give you longevity?



If you're not going to use the power, what's the point of this exercise?
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 02:35 PM
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You will at least have to have the cylinders hone for the type of rings you will be using. Also If I remember correctly the Dart Block have to have the rear oil passage blocked.

There really isn't any reason for building an engine like this for the street! If it is just for bragging rights I suggest lieing it's much cheaper and unless the take your engine apart they will never know!
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 02:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Sarno
It seems like you are spending money for the power you are not going to use but want to save money in the area that will give you longevity?

If you're not going to use the power, what's the point of this exercise?

Please don't get me wrong here but longevity is greatly reduced by drag racing. I only built two engines in my lifetime and had no problems with either (so far). Both were used blocks and needed to be checked and worked before assembly. I am just trying to find out if this service work is necessary on a new block.
The point of the exercise is the fun of it. Isn't that what we are all doing? Although there may be a few, I don't think too many of us are making money racing on the weekends.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 03:10 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeS
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom Sarno
It seems like you are spending money for the power you are not going to use but want to save money in the area that will give you longevity?

If you're not going to use the power, what's the point of this exercise?

Please don't get me wrong here but longevity is greatly reduced by drag racing. I only built two engines in my lifetime and had no problems with either (so far). Both were used blocks and needed to be checked and worked before assembly. I am just trying to find out if this service work is necessary on a new block.
The point of the exercise is the fun of it. Isn't that what we are all doing? Although there may be a few, I don't think too many of us are making money racing on the weekends.
True. I've never made a dime on the track. But, I have gotten my money's worth on the track for what I paid for all the fancy engine and suspension parts.

A difference in my book.

But, it's your money, and I support you spending it the way you want. I just don't understand the point of it.
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 03:29 PM
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I had my brand new Motown block decked because they weren't square and also weren't the correct height. I had a couple more small things done too but I also wouldn't buy a block that was already bored, you need bore the block to fit the pistons you are going to use.

I had brand new Eagle 4340 forged stroker rods resized because the big end was egg shaped. I had the valve guides on my brand new AFR 227 heads opened up 1 thousands of an inch because I didn't like them that tight. There are a few more things that I did to brand new parts but I imagine you understand how I feel about this subject.

All these things add up and any one of these and many many more can result in a blowed up motor.

Making assumptions about any measurement or anything in general about a block or any part going into or on that block when building a new motor is rolling the dice with 5 grand or whatever you are going to have in it as the wager
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 05:15 PM
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It's your money, but I cannot in good conscience recommend taking short cuts when it comes to performance build ups. You needn't graduate from the BTDT school of learnin' to understand the money "saved" by purposefully neglecting sound blueprinting practices can very likely lead to even more expense in the long run. If you must compromise something, compromise power rather than durability. You can always slap on the go fast goodies later. My $.02


TSW
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Originally Posted by GeorgeS
I would like to build a 427 using a new dart block and ballanced forged internals. My intended goal is a small block with 525 HP and 525 TQ under 6000 RPM. It will never see a drag strip as long as I own it and will likely not see 6000 RPM since I don't push my engine that hard.
My question is; Can I but a block and internals and assemble the parts without spending extra money to have the block checked and other mechine work done?
We machine a lot of Dart blocks and so far they do need to be decked unless you want your pistons in the hole .025 on average, And we do see the main lines seem to be on the tight side, Also the lifter bores need to honed to the correct size, Cylinders need to be plate honed as the come through either 3.990 or 4.115

The Little-M blocks are machined to swing an 3.875 with most steel rods and will go out to 4.185 to get you your 427

Most rods on the big ends are on the small side and any rod we have seen out of the box the pin end needs to hone to the correct clearance and depending on the pistons most need the pin bores hone to the correct size. Most performance rings need to be file fit, bearing clearances need to addressed ETC.

So far all the years I have been building racing engines I have never seen a rotator ready to assemble out of the box.

If it was that easy weman and children would be building engines
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Old Jul 28, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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We just built a 400 using the Dart SHP block and AFR 210's with a solid roller cam on the dyno it made 515 torque at 4900 RPM and 570 horse at 6700 RPM

3.750 stroke X 4.125 bore
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