Making an effort to really lay down some plans instead of just letting them bounce around in my head. I want to start a frame off restoration on my car early next year. My intent is to build a weekend get away on a very solid foundation. I would like to eventually find my way to a drag strip but thats a ways down the road for me.

<EDIT 1>

I've decided to scale back my planning. Over the course of time I hope to loosen and tighten everything on the car but my first step will be acquiring a solid foundation to work from.


Here is the list I'm compiling... completely editable by everyone just have to follow the link. I'll also update this post regularly with the info I'm compiling. Your suggestions/warnings/insight is as always very much appreciated.

https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CMuMiaAM

NAME - PRICE - LINK
Frame - $13,800 - http://www.sriiimotorsports.com/196382corvette.html
Wheels - ? - ?
Rims - ? - ?
Gas Tank - ? - ?
Fuel System - ? - ?
LS Crate - ? - ?
Gauges - ? - ?
Transmission - ? - ?

Not much yet... stay tuned.

 

Suspension
Brakes
There is a ton more. Plan on about 60K+ for a real nice ride doing most of the work yourself. Believe me yo ucan go north of 60K pretty easily if you get carried away.

 

Remember this thread? http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c3-g...zing-a-c3.html Read over post #24 real good.

Sometimes "discretion is the better part of valor". Please I'm not trying to be a salesman or smart a$$. If you want something that's as good as that car you will not touch that quality level for that investment. If you bought that car and sold your car how much would you be spending for the car of your dreams? So what that you didn't do it yourself. If you build your own car can you do ALL the work yourself? Probably not. Just a though based on what you're looking to do. Think about it. Although by all means follow your dreams. Good luck with what ever you decide to do.

 

I've spoken to Joe in PMs recently. I'm definitely in love with his car but there are basically two things keeping me from buying it.
1. I bought my 78 to learn on. I really enjoy the work because its so unlike anything else I get to do on a regular basis. I see it as a hobby I can show off anywhere I go.
2. Financing. I'm planning on doing my build with 20-30k cash in hand from my re-enlistment bonus. Even if I sold my 'vette and my grocery getter for KBB value I'd still be short. I can't even begin to imagine Joe taking less than what he's asking... it would be criminal.

I hope you understand my position and don't read my words as some sort of harsh rebuke. I definitely appreciate your responses.

 

No not at all. It's just the opposite. I feel like I'm telling you how to spend your money. :o
Gordonm knows a lot more about building these "hot rod" Corvettes than I will ever know but I have built some rods and customs myself. I know what it costs as well as the time it takes to build something like Joe's car. That car at that quality level (I've seen it in person a couple of times) is an out right steal at that price. I totally understand how you feel. It's all good.

 

20 to 30K is not even close to what you are going to spend. I have done a lot of projects and full on cars and have assisted in many. Plan on double to triple what you have and twice as much time and you may be close to what you have into it. A full on resto or resto mod is not something that is going to be cheap. Not trying to discourage you but take it from others also who have done this and wha tthe cost is. To many projects get started then run dry of money. It is always cheaper to buy a "done" car than do it yourself. Good luck and do your homework on this and talk to people who have done this.

 

I haven't done the body and paint yet, have some interior items left to take care of, and have no idea how much I've spent so far over the seven years that I've been working on it, let's just say "a lot"! To give you an idea, here's my spreadsheet. There's a ton of "little stuff" that I didn't include. There's guys on here that have done way more than me to their's Good luck

Engine:
350 4 bolt main
Block .040 over to 385 Stroker
Balanced rotating assembly
Clevite bearings throughout
Scat nodular crank 3.75" stroke
Pioneer race balancer
AMS Racing H-beam rods good for 650hp (identical to Eagle rods)
Keith Black Hypereutectic pistons 10.25.1 compression with the 64cc heads
World Products iron 64cc heads 2.02 intake 1.60 exhaust valves 200cc intake runners
Summit Racing hardened pushrods
Crane Gold Series aluminum rockers 1.52 ratio
Lunati Bracket Master II hydraulic cam, 300 degree advertised duration, 246 degrees at .050 lift, 108 degree lobe separation, .515 lift intake/exhaust
Summit Racing double roller timing chain
Edelbrock Torker II intake manifold
Barry Grant Speed Demon 750 Carb. Mechanical secondaries
Edelbrock Victor Jr. reverse flow water pump (serpentine conversion)
March Underdrive Pulley Kit
Dewitt’s Aluminum Radiator with dual Spal fans
Hedman Side Exhaust Headers 1 5/8” Jet-Hot coated inside & out
Sweet Thunder 1969 Style Stainless Steel Side Exhaust
Royal Purple Synthetic Oil
MSD 6A Ignition Control
MSD Blaster Coil
MSD Red Super Conductor 8.5mm Wires
ACDelco Professional Platinum Spark Plugs
K & N Air Filter
160-Degree Thermostat

Transmission:
Stock BW Super T10 4 Speed
New Clutch Fork & Pivot
Fidanza Aluminum Flywheel
Centerforce II Dual Friction Clutch
Centerforce Throwout Bearing
Hurst Comp Plus Shifter
Modified/ Reinforced Clutch Stud Mounting Bracket

Rear Differential:
Ikerd’s Complete Rebuilt Dana 44 Aluminum
Poly Mounts
370 ratio
Solid U-Joints (driveshaft & halfshafts)
Van Steel Machined U-Joint Caps (driveshaft & halfshafts)
Van Steel Halfshafts

Wheels/ Tires:
17x9.5 C6 Z06 Style Wheels F / R Black Powdercoat with Red Band
2.5” Wheel Adapters F/ R
Nitto NT555 Extreme 275/ 40 ZR 17
New Lug Nuts

Suspension/ Chassis:
Went over all frame welds
Added Gussets for Lower Control Arm mounting brackets
Boxed front frame at Swaybar mounting location
Acid dipped and Powdercoated Frame Red
Coated inside of frame with Fluid Film
VBP Performance Plus Suspension Powdercoated Red
VBP Offset Trailing Arms Powdercoated Red with rebuilt Hubs
Poly Bushing / Mounts used throughout
New Wheel Bearings/ Races all around
New Steering Valve, Cylinder, and Lines
Flaming River Stainless Steel Steering Coupler

Brakes:
Stainless Steel hard lines and mounting clips
Stainless Steel Braided Caliper Lines
VBP Stock Style Stainless Steel Piston O-Ring Calipers
Stainless Steel E-Brake Components
New Stock Rotors
DOT 5 Brake Fluid
Chrome Master Cylinder
New Brake Booster

Interior:
Stock, re-dyed two-tone Doeskin/ Black color
ACC complete Cut-Pile Carpet Set – Black
Lightweight Thermal Insulation throughout

Electrical:
Upgraded Wire Gauge from Battery + / - to Engine Comp. / Alternator
Replaced fusible link at the battery with a 50 amp breaker
Added Positive & Negative Terminal Blocks to the Engine Compartment
Optima Red Top Battery
CS 133 Alternator

Fuel:
New Fuel Tank
New Fuel Lines 3/8” Steel Feed
New Fuel Lines 5/16” Steel Return
Stainless Steel Aeroquip
Goodyear High Pressure Rubber Fuel Line (to tank)
-AN 6 Fittings
Jeg’s Inline Electric Fuel Pump
Fuel Pressure Regulator
Fuel Pressure Gauge
Jeg’s –AN 6 In-Line Pre & Post High Flow Polished Fuel Filters

Accessories:
Serpentine Belt Conversion using 1989 Firebird Accessories (except AC)
1987 Corvette AC Compressor
New AC Line, seals, Dryer, and Orifice Tube
Thermo Insulated AC Box
1989 Firebird Power Steering Pump

Misc:
New Windshield
New Weatherstrips
New Smoked T-Tops
Installed/ welded Rocker Channel Inserts
Birdcage cleaned and painted with POR-15
Cleaned and painted, or replace all brackets, screws, bolts, and springs throughout
Painted Underbody Satin Black
All Chassis Parts Powdercoated or Painted

 

Neal,
I agree with your take but I'll go one further. I am doing a complete 68resto, LS7, C6 ZO6 brakes, Sharkbite, Steroids, basically everything that can be resto'd will be resto'd. I have pals that tell me, "cheaper to buy one" or "pay somebody to do this or that".

To me the journey is the goal, the finished product is just a manifestation of the work it took to creat it. There is nothing wrong with purchasing a complete car if the journey is unimportant.

Regards,
Steve

 

Thanks for the responses!

Gordon I appreciate your words of caution. I've limited the scope of my initial push/phase/whatever to under body work.

Mike - Fantastic list. I currently stuck on rear differentials. Why did you choose yours? Where did you get it?

Z068 - Thanks for the perspective. I see that you're a few steps ahead of me in your build. I could definitely use more of your input.

 

With you presently being in the USAF, I'm surprised you would want to tie yourself to a big project like this. Usually orders are 2 years for rotation of duty station (PCS in Navy terms) and if you have to go, you could be in the middle of a garage full of parts.

During my USN years, I couldn't imagine having a large car resto project going.

I have to say the JOURNEY is a major part of the Corvette hobby though!

 

MN-Brent - (un)fortunately the PCS rotation has been slowed to 4 years to save the DoD some money. I have only a couple months before I'm on my way to Beale AFB in California. Hoping to begin my project early next year. I'm 100% certain I'll be interrupted by deployments and TDY's but I still should have more than enough time to get several steps into my project.

 

Thanks! I'm assuming your asking about my choice for the differential. I switched from a 307 ratio to a 370 ratio because I am going for power off the line. With that ratio and the sidepipes, it's a lot louder than I thought it would be on the highway. A 5 or 6 speed trans. would be nice, but I can't put out that kind of money right now. The rear came from iKerds, but I bought it through Ecklers when they had 15% off.

It was a lot of work, but my vette is a whole new beast. Very tight, feels more like a race car than a street car. Definitely not a daily driver! I have it registered as a Collectors Vehicle.

 

Money and Time are the two biggest issues. I have been working on my resto for over 5 years now since my car went underwater in Katrina. I have recently started making lists because I work as I have the money to do it. It is amazing what all the parts and their costs are. I am hoping now after years of disassembly, blasting and painting parts I can start to get the frame and chassis together this Christmas. All I can say is good luck and have a lot of cash on hand if you want it done fast.

 

Neal,
I glorious vision!! There is nothing that compares to a Resto-mod car I built my car in 2 1/2 years and I am a DOD civilian that deploys on a continuous basis....it can be done. If you can stick to a plan and not get side tracked with "let me do it this way instead" and bog yourself down you'll do great. The key here as mentioned above, it's the journey in building a ride like that....lots of time looking and figuring out how you’re going to accomplish some of the tasks, but very rewarding in the end.

By purchasing a complete roller from SRIII, you put yourself way ahead.....take advantage of having Mike do the brake lines and powder coating/paint the frame so it's ready to rock when you get it. You can hoist off the body, kick out the old frame and roll the new one in, make the necessary cuts to the rear storage area to accommodate the frame and you’re in pretty good shape. You can find LS2/T56 units from GTO's for a pretty good price these days. They produce tremendous power and fuel economy and you can always add a supercharger later should you have the thirst for some more juice!! And for the price….you just can’t beat them.

If you attack the project in major phases like get the body on and get the drive train up and running, tie in the steering and get the brakes operational it really gives you momentum. If you let it drag out, we will probably see it on Ebay sometime in the future.

Good luck and ask lots of questions. Joe did a superb job on his C3 and is a great source of info. You can find pics of my SRIII C2 build here...

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/album.php?albumid=3750



R/
Jeff

 

Jeff... Rediculously sexy ride. I appreciate the advice and encouragement. I'm definitely going with a SRIII frame even if its the only thing I can do during my 'initial push'. Theres nothing wrong with my carbed rebuilt 350 I'd just prefer to switch to EFI.

How hard is it to drop a nearly stock '78 onto an SRIII? I was aware of the storage box mods but not any difficulty in tieing the steering in. Thanks!

 

The steering is not really a big issue. You need to use a splined coupler to connect your existing steering column to an intermediate shaft to extend down and connect to the power rack. Mike can probably help you out with part numbers and the parts can be sourced from Flaming river.

Jeff