Cam sprocket bearing oiling question.
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Cam sprocket bearing oiling question.
I'm building a new BB engine and installed a roller bearing behind the cam sprocket to protect the block from getting chewed up. Just curious if any of you guys have used one of these bearings on your engine. I'm trying to figure out how durable these things are, and how "oil needy" they might be. I was thinking of drilling one of the oil galley plugs to squirt a bit of oil on it, but the plug placements aren't terribly cooperative. So, I'm still working that issue.
Back to my original question: Anybody here running one of these bearing setups?
thanks,
Mike
Back to my original question: Anybody here running one of these bearing setups?
thanks,
Mike
Thread Starter
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: Austin TX
The Torrington bearing behind the cam sprocket gets it's lube from oil be slung about the timing cover cavity by the chain.
It doesn't need a lot of oil to survive. When the engine is under a load the bearing isn't under much pressure as the cam tries to push forward.
It doesn't need a lot of oil to survive. When the engine is under a load the bearing isn't under much pressure as the cam tries to push forward.
Pro
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Stafford VA
The guy that helped me with my 496 said there are 2 ways to protect the block, either the roller bearings or cutting a small groove in the back of the cam gear to create an oil cushion against the block. He said either option works equally well and there is enough oil splashed behind the cam gear for both methods.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
I suppose you're talking about the "torrington" bearing behind the cam gear? Yes, I am running one and no, I did not perform any additional drilling to supply the bearing with oil. This topic has been brought up a few times over on the Chevelles forum.
If I remember correctly, I don't think the Chevelles guys were such big fans of the procedure because the oil, once it hits the bearing is constantly being "slung" to the outside of the bearing leaving very little for oiling. I could be wrong but atleast that's what I remember about the subject.
You could go here: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=13 and do some searching. Look around for "Wolfplace" (I think his real name is Mike Lewis) and I feel positive he could lead you in the right direction.
If I remember correctly, I don't think the Chevelles guys were such big fans of the procedure because the oil, once it hits the bearing is constantly being "slung" to the outside of the bearing leaving very little for oiling. I could be wrong but atleast that's what I remember about the subject.
You could go here: http://www.chevelles.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=13 and do some searching. Look around for "Wolfplace" (I think his real name is Mike Lewis) and I feel positive he could lead you in the right direction.
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 1,781
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From: Oxford Ohio
That bearing will be all you need. It gets all the oil it needs from the oil slung from the timing gears just like has been said earlier. For some reason the BBC cam trys to leave out the back. I've had a couple that have cut up to 3/16 into the block before shavings took out the bearings in the bottom end.
Machined a recess flat and sunk the torrington just short of flush and saved the block. It was a numbers matching deal that was worth the extra effort.
Machined a recess flat and sunk the torrington just short of flush and saved the block. It was a numbers matching deal that was worth the extra effort.
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Thanks for the info and suggestions, guys. It's greatly appreciated. 
I also registered at the Chevelle forum, mostly for the engine discussions.
I also registered at the Chevelle forum, mostly for the engine discussions.
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The Torringtons don't need a lot of oil, so you'll be fine with whatever blows around in there.
I don't use them though... just one more pile of little needles to worry about. I drill a hole directly in the cam gear thrust face of the block into the #1 main oil gallery to provide pressurized oil directly to the back of the gear. No big leak like drilling the oil plugs and it puts oil DIRECTLY where it needs to be. My 427 still looks brand new in this area after 20+ years of running with HV oil pumps and flat tappet cams for the majority of that time. (flat tappets are pulled rearward by design-rollers don't.) My 540/555" has been running 10+ years with the same mod and also looks new.
I do this on all Big blocks.
JIM
I don't use them though... just one more pile of little needles to worry about. I drill a hole directly in the cam gear thrust face of the block into the #1 main oil gallery to provide pressurized oil directly to the back of the gear. No big leak like drilling the oil plugs and it puts oil DIRECTLY where it needs to be. My 427 still looks brand new in this area after 20+ years of running with HV oil pumps and flat tappet cams for the majority of that time. (flat tappets are pulled rearward by design-rollers don't.) My 540/555" has been running 10+ years with the same mod and also looks new.
I do this on all Big blocks.
JIM
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
The Torringtons don't need a lot of oil, so you'll be fine with whatever blows around in there.
I don't use them though... just one more pile of little needles to worry about. I drill a hole directly in the cam gear thrust face of the block into the #1 main oil gallery to provide pressurized oil directly to the back of the gear. No big leak like drilling the oil plugs and it puts oil DIRECTLY where it needs to be. My 427 still looks brand new in this area after 20+ years of running with HV oil pumps and flat tappet cams for the majority of that time. (flat tappets are pulled rearward by design-rollers don't.) My 540/555" has been running 10+ years with the same mod and also looks new.
I do this on all Big blocks.
JIM
I don't use them though... just one more pile of little needles to worry about. I drill a hole directly in the cam gear thrust face of the block into the #1 main oil gallery to provide pressurized oil directly to the back of the gear. No big leak like drilling the oil plugs and it puts oil DIRECTLY where it needs to be. My 427 still looks brand new in this area after 20+ years of running with HV oil pumps and flat tappet cams for the majority of that time. (flat tappets are pulled rearward by design-rollers don't.) My 540/555" has been running 10+ years with the same mod and also looks new.
I do this on all Big blocks.
JIM
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The needles will be fine and probably make sense for a long term use on an aluminum block. Don't worry about it.
JIM
JIM
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From: I tend to be leery of any guy who doesn't own a chainsaw or a handgun.
Cam button question.
I got a cam button with this setup, and I need to set the button clearance/endplay to keep the bearing from possibly slipping out. I noticed this button is plastic (or nylon?). I generally try to shy away from plastic when it's subjected to hot oil, so I looked at the Summit website for a replacement. Most of the buttons there are plastic or aluminum. I had always assumed that most of these buttons were brass for wear and lubrication issues. There were some steel buttons with roller bearings, but I'm trying to minimize the complexity of this button construction. So, I'm leaning towards the aluminum button rather than the part I got with the kit. I would assume there's a bit of oil splashed up on the front of the cover, but I've never been a fan of aluminum as a wearable surface.
Thoughts?
Thoughts?
Le Mans Master
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From: I'd like to propose a toast... to internal combustion and wind in the face.
I'm running the steel button with the roller bearings. To date I have no issues. Well, atleast no issues with the rollerized cam button.
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Contrary to my earlier comments on not liking little needle bearings, the roller cam buttons have worked well. I've never had one come apart.
I've also been involved in a few with the nylon ones and I can tell you that I've never seen any issues with those either. I was actually surprised a little..but after a lot of miles they were fine. It really doesn't take much to keep one in place.
I've never tried an aluminum one.
You can also use the Cloyes cover that has cam thrust adjustment built in. They are pretty slick.
JIM
I've also been involved in a few with the nylon ones and I can tell you that I've never seen any issues with those either. I was actually surprised a little..but after a lot of miles they were fine. It really doesn't take much to keep one in place.
I've never tried an aluminum one.
You can also use the Cloyes cover that has cam thrust adjustment built in. They are pretty slick.
JIM
