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vacuum leaks as in i should be plugging up the vacuum advanced line and/or the vacuum tank on the distributor?
Can i take one of the plugs out, ground it to the header and see if i get a spark when starting?
plug anything open to carb or intake, the vacum advance line I would plug in distributor until You get it running. Yes You can ground spark plug to header. Just be carefull I don't like getting zapped so I don't recommend anyone else getting zapped. Maybe get Your room mate? Could be payback for leaving ignition on.LOL Unless its a Woman then totally disregard that last suggestion.
Okay i checked the voltage at the coil and it only read 6v.
12 at alternator and battery. I guessing this might be okay as i recall if you install a HEI you have to run a new wire as the new coil needs more voltage?
OK, I'll try this one. You are probably at TDC and pointing the rotor at #8, not #1. The old way just CW past the metal window. Move the wires over one position CCW. Thus #1 will be on the other side of the window. Point the rotor to that position.
This is the post-1968 #1 position as described in Lars' paper.
Note the position of the distributor and vacuum can to get a direct-on attachment of the tach drive cable on the far side. This is discussed in the paper.
Okay i checked the voltage at the coil and it only read 6v.
12 at alternator and battery. I guessing this might be okay as i recall if you install a HEI you have to run a new wire as the new coil needs more voltage?
Some distributors run on 6v some on 12, I can't remember which ones? Hopefully someone will chime in with the answer. If You can get ahold of Roger He has great electrical insite.
About alining the rotor with the #1 spark plug terminal on the dizzy cap. I sacraficed a dizzy cap. I cut a rectangula hole in it right below the terminal that was going to be #1. I used a dremel with a metal cut off wheel (disk). The cut off wheel actually melts its' way into the plastic. With a nice big hole under #1, I could visually see the rotor was correctly aligned. Of course, when I went to start the car, I used a standard distributor cap. The distributor caps I used were for a HEI, but standard caps can also be used.
Which terminal on the distributor cap was #1? I aligned the distributor body so the tach cable was not kinked and then moved the distributor body a little to get the rotor under the terminal.
I tried a 3rd time and you know what they say about that...
I believe it was the dwell was set far too little(or too much?) and the points were constantly making contact as the distributor went around. When i had it off i spun the shaft and didn't see/hear the points click.
Like a lot of you suggested I was installing the distributor with the #1 plug moved over this whole time as that is how it was when i took it out of the car. And You can instantly see there'll be a problem with the tach cable if you don't.
Now i'm off to set the timing and take it for a spin!
Timing it wasn't all that hard. I could go back and do a lot better job if i wanted to test my weight springs and if they're too weak and are advancing even at idle but i didn't do that.
I just set the thing to 36, reved it up to 2500-2800 and tweaked the dizzy a bit till it was at zero. Then tightened it all up.
Took it for a spin and it was like night and day. Tons more pep and a lot smoother ride.
There was however some backfire so i'm not sure if i need to worry about that a whole lot? I didn't hear any detonation in the engine but maybe backfire is a sign of that?
Hope I was of some help. Now you have to tweak the carb for a lean condition.
I bought the carb rebuild kit the same time I bought the dizzy stuff.
Waiting on my book by Doug Roe to come in sometime next week before I tackle that puzzle.
Everyone was a great help. Seems like everyone knew what they were talking about and was able to explain it to me in a simple enough way that even I could figure it out.
Only problem is now it's running too well that my old worn out belts are squeaking. So i'm off to the store to pick up those to install this weekend.
I bought the carb rebuild kit the same time I bought the dizzy stuff.
Waiting on my book by Doug Roe to come in sometime next week before I tackle that puzzle.
Everyone was a great help. Seems like everyone knew what they were talking about and was able to explain it to me in a simple enough way that even I could figure it out.
Only problem is now it's running too well that my old worn out belts are squeaking. So i'm off to the store to pick up those to install this weekend.
Back out your idle screws another 1/ 1/2 turns to richen. It's running too well? OK, I would live with that. Anyone would. You can cheap out with belt spray for the squeaks. It does work. But realistically I would replace the belts.
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